Building a 350 HELP Newbie
Building a 350 HELP Newbie
ok to start off i gotta 1984 camaro Z-28 its gotta 305 its pretty strong yet but i need more power hmm i this is gonna be my project for school so i wonna build a 350 for it and 350 turbo tranny
i got the motor right now in my shed i need help in what to put in it and stuff its complete stock 2 bolt main i took the heads off the guy i got it froms said there good ones number is 228 or 882 or something but sure but i gotta build it nasty tho....
i got the motor right now in my shed i need help in what to put in it and stuff its complete stock 2 bolt main i took the heads off the guy i got it froms said there good ones number is 228 or 882 or something but sure but i gotta build it nasty tho....
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Well, what's your budget? What do you think you'll be spending? How much power are you looking to get out of it? Just from the list of parts I have written down for my build up, it adds up to $3,947 and that's still without a crankshaft, pushrods, fuel pump and water pump. Not to mention, I haven't even talked to the machine shop yet on how much that's going to cost.
This is all for a carbed engine making right around 500hp. Next thing will probably be a new rear end after I break mine running slicks lol. The transmission rebuild is probably going to cost 700 to 900 dollars unless you find one that's in decent shape already. Higher stall converter, cheapy ones from 175 all the way up to 800+ for a good one like I'm running. You'll have to do something about the transmission crossmember, drive shaft and torque arm also.
There are some good budget motor buildups out there and I'm sure people will post links to them <hint hint hehe> so don't let my numbers scare you off.
This is all for a carbed engine making right around 500hp. Next thing will probably be a new rear end after I break mine running slicks lol. The transmission rebuild is probably going to cost 700 to 900 dollars unless you find one that's in decent shape already. Higher stall converter, cheapy ones from 175 all the way up to 800+ for a good one like I'm running. You'll have to do something about the transmission crossmember, drive shaft and torque arm also.
There are some good budget motor buildups out there and I'm sure people will post links to them <hint hint hehe> so don't let my numbers scare you off.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,886
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
What are going for power wise? Are shooting for big power or would a stout small block with moderate power be enough? Is this going to be your daily driver?
If you are not going for big power, I mean like 450+hp then you should not have any problems with your stock crank. As long as it checks out okay, it will be fine. I would upgrade the rods because they lead a hard life and stronger rods can be had inexpensively. You should go with new pistons no matter what. If you are going to be NA (natural aspiration) then use some hypereutectic (sp?) slugs. If nitrous or a blower of some sort is in your plans get forged. The hypers are going to be a little cheaper that is why I say go with them if and only if you are staying NA. My opinion on heads is to get the very best you can afford. I don't think about stock heads when I put my engines together because I know at some point I would be pulling them to upgrade. I will leave this area alone until you respond with budget and power goals. And with camshaft, more info is needed to help you select the best parts for your application...
If you are not going for big power, I mean like 450+hp then you should not have any problems with your stock crank. As long as it checks out okay, it will be fine. I would upgrade the rods because they lead a hard life and stronger rods can be had inexpensively. You should go with new pistons no matter what. If you are going to be NA (natural aspiration) then use some hypereutectic (sp?) slugs. If nitrous or a blower of some sort is in your plans get forged. The hypers are going to be a little cheaper that is why I say go with them if and only if you are staying NA. My opinion on heads is to get the very best you can afford. I don't think about stock heads when I put my engines together because I know at some point I would be pulling them to upgrade. I will leave this area alone until you respond with budget and power goals. And with camshaft, more info is needed to help you select the best parts for your application...
ok
i am building this motor and tranny to drop in in the next 9 months of school so moneys no problem right now just need it nasty as possible i got 202 heads to put on when its done i want her to rumble cuase my cuzings giving me a challeng with his 283 in his 83 camaro NEED Advise no blowers or turbos or superchargers will only use Nitrous !!!
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,096
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From: Lima, OH
Car: '89 Formula 350 & '86 Z28
Engine: L98 & 355ci
Transmission: 700r4 in both
Re: Building a 350 HELP Newbie
Originally posted by chevycamaro1984
i took the heads off the guy i got it froms said there good ones number is 228 or 882 or something
i took the heads off the guy i got it froms said there good ones number is 228 or 882 or something
If you want power, spend as much as you can on heads!!! Also you keep saying you want it nasty and that makes it sound like you want it to have a "rough idle". That requires a fairly decent sized cam, but if you dont match up all the other parts to the cam you will have a MEAN sounding car thats SLOW....
Choose your cam LAST......
Last edited by SweetS10v8; Aug 29, 2003 at 07:03 AM.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,886
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
The trick is to know that with a big nasty came, the engine is going to be a high RPM engine. It will have a power band of about 2500-6500. That is not unreasonable, but it will require a strong foundation to last and build power reliably. That said, you should understand that projects like this are not cheap. Not only parts but assembly and machining is even more critical. I just want you to understand this up front. THe heads will be very important. Like SweetS10 said, with poor heads you will have a nasty sounding, slow car. WHat good is that, right? Go for some high quality, high flow (high dollar) heads. 400 hp doesn't require a nasty, rough idling cam. I understand completly that you are going for the distictive "hot rod" sound. I want some more info on what you are trying to do. Think about EXACTLY what you want and how much you are commited to spending.
build up
ok this is what i am getting at i want to be pretty fast around here so i got 9 months to get the drive train togeather so moneys really not a big deal! looking for good power i just like the sound of a big cam lol :hail: looking to break 12's on the street my goal this is a school project..
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,886
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
Okay, I looked at Comp Cams web catalog today and here are some choices for you.
1. Magnum Series...286H duration 236 @.050" lift .490 110 LSA
2. Extreme Energy Series...XE274Hduration 230/236 @.050" lift .490 110 LSA
3. Extreme Energy Retro fit Roller...XR282 230/236 @.050" .510/.520 110* LSA
I think any of these cams will work very well for where you are trying to go. Get the matching valve springs to go with any new cam you choose.
1. Magnum Series...286H duration 236 @.050" lift .490 110 LSA
2. Extreme Energy Series...XE274Hduration 230/236 @.050" lift .490 110 LSA
3. Extreme Energy Retro fit Roller...XR282 230/236 @.050" .510/.520 110* LSA
I think any of these cams will work very well for where you are trying to go. Get the matching valve springs to go with any new cam you choose.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
I would go with about 9 to 9.5:1 with iron heads. 10-10.5:1 with aluminum heads. Piston design is going to be determined by CCs of the combustion chambers. If you are running 58cc heads, you will want dished pistons to keep compression down. If you have 76cc heads, flat tops will probably be fine. I wouldn't even think domed pistons would ever be neccessary for a street engine.
My engine is using 68cc Air Flow Research heads. I use dished pistons to get 9.3:1 compression ratio. I built a blower motor though. When the engine was first built, it had flat top pistons that gave me 10.8:1 CR.
Good choice though about the roller cam. More lift and less internal friction. What block are you going to use? Year (for crank type) and whether or not it has a OEM roller cam is what I am interested in?
My engine is using 68cc Air Flow Research heads. I use dished pistons to get 9.3:1 compression ratio. I built a blower motor though. When the engine was first built, it had flat top pistons that gave me 10.8:1 CR.
Good choice though about the roller cam. More lift and less internal friction. What block are you going to use? Year (for crank type) and whether or not it has a OEM roller cam is what I am interested in?
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 523
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From: Marion, Iowa
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
CHECK THIS SITE OUT!!
Hey here is a site w/over 100 tested 350 and 383 combos. Most combos are from reputable places like Carcraft.
I'm doing the same thing you are now and this site has helped me alot.
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
Hope this helps
I'm doing the same thing you are now and this site has helped me alot.
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
Hope this helps
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