I just swapped in my new motor not too long ago (check sig for specs), and not it is running like absolute garbage. The thing starts and fires and idles in park and neutral, but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse, I have to get on the gas to keep if from stalling.

I had it checked out by 2 mechanics before I left for school and one guy adjusted the timing and the other re-adjusted my rockers. Now I just found out that I have a front main seal leak and possibly valve cover leaks. I have valve covers!!!! I am sooo fed up with this car that I honestly don't think it will ever run right, and I am seriously considering selling it. I will even entertain offers.

So what do you say guys? Can you either offer me some help or make an offer. I know I probably have to mess with the carb but I know nothing about them.

Steve

 

Doesn't sound like anything very serious to me.

The problem of dying when put in gear is probably a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd check for open vacuum connections all on the carb, and floow all the lines that you do have hooked up to the carb and intake, and make sure none of them are cracked etc.

Replace the valve cover gaskets. No biggie. Straighten the valve covers, so that they're not bent in around the bolt holes. Use a set of FelPro VS12869R, the rubber ones NOT CORK; clean the sealing surfaces up with lacquer thinner, until they are spotless; use gorilla snot on them, dose the VC and the gasket separately and let them sit for 20 minutes or so before putting the gasket in the VC, then do the same to the surface of the head and that side of the VC, and make sure the VC doesn't touch anything as it goes on. Get a set of Moroso "load spreaders" and some 1" long bolts and use them on the exhaust side of the VC, and DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THEM.

Look at the front of the engine, in front of the fuel pump, down low, just to the pass side of the harmonic balancer. I'm assuming you left the smog pump and its bracket off. You will see 2 bolt holes. Is there a bolt in the upper one of the 2 holes? If not, you can look right in that hole and see the fuel pump drive rod; that hole will spew oil like the Exxon Valdez at high RPMs. Put a SHORT bolt in that hole, like ½" long or so, with some silicone on the threads.

It just sounds like you have the typical new-motor punch-list kind of things to take care of. It happens to just about everybody their first few motor swaps, there's little things they overlook or whatever, you just have to work them through. It's not the end of the world.

 

Make sure you have the right timing. My car wouldnt idle in gear and it turns out that I was only getting 8* of timing at 2000RPM and it was missing on #7 I thought for sure it was a vacuum leak at first. Also make sure your car is running on all cylinders properly. An easy way would be to start it and let it run for like 15 seconds then go and feel all the header primary tubes ...if one is colder than the rest then replace the plug/wire.

Also keep in mind the XE274 cam is gonna want a lot more timing than a stocker. Try setting it at like 12* initial and work your way up

 

Another thing is that double pumper new or used? If you got it used the base plate could be leaking vacuum around the throttle shafts. To check for it just take off the air cleaner and put your hand over the top of the carb. If the car dies the carb is not leaking but if it revs up it is.

 

If you just put that engine in, don't sell it. You will kick yourself later. Do what has been suggested here. If you must, take some time off from working on it. I do that all the time. Thats why I have about 10 projects going!! Take your time. Everything that has been suggested here would take less than a day, closer to a couple hours. Don't lose hope.

 

Yeah you'll figure it out most likely its something really stupid and once you figure it out you'll be a little smarter and feel THAT much more better when you're driving around.

 

This is very common Steve, as with most motor swaps.... we all tend to overlook things. It's probably something very very simple, but because you don't know, it's causing a lot of sleepless nights, right?

If she wants to stall with a load, it's more than likely what RB had stated.... a vacuum leak. With the car idling in park, spray some Carb cleaner by the base of the Carb, and by the intake manifold bolts. If she 'revs' up at any given time, there's you're leak. If not, check the Carb-to-intake gasket, and make sure it's not on backward (although you'd get a rough idle even in park, it's good to check to be sure). Re-check you're vacuum line from the brake booster to the intake/Carb.

How did you tune the Carb? Did you set idle mixture/float for you're application?

You're lucky there Steve, as front main seal's are easier to replace (compared with rear's). The valve covers might just need to be tightened, and if not.... there a breeze to replace.

Seriously though Steve, don't ever rely on 'mechanics' to do the work for you. Take pride in you're ride, and tune her yourself.

Since you might be replacing the valve cover gaskets anyway.... remove the covers, then get yourself a ratchet/extension and 5/8 socket. Start the car, and working from any rocker arm, loosen it until you hear a 'tap'.... then re-tighten until the tap goes away, then only go an additional 1/2 a turn (do this for all of the rocker's while the engine is running.... this way you're SURE the valves aren't too tight).

Double check for any vacuum leaks, by going through each and every vacuum line (but if she wants to stall immediately, it's probably a big vacuum source.... like the brake vacuum line, or the intake to head gasket, or Carb to intake gasket). Use some carb cleaner to pinpoint the location.

Once you get the car to go in gear without stalling, then you can set the timing....

Don't give up Steve! Like what was mentioned above, once you get her going, you're going to love it.... and judging by you're specs, she's going to run nice and strong!

 

Scrap the Carb gasket being on backward concept.... as I just realized you have a squarebore.

 

Well bad news guys, engine is not even running anymore. This weekend I went back home for a wedding and about 3/4 of the way through my trip, my car dies.

Right now, I have a very loud metal on metal sound which makes me believe I have one of 3 things, bent valve (not too bad), broken lifter (a little worst) or a spun bearing (oh please no!). Judging from my weird oil pressure levels on the way home, I'm guessing it might be the bearing.

The good news is when I was at the wedding I pitched my troubles to my uncle and he is going to help me fix my entire engine. This is good because he has been a mechanic for FORD for 20 years and now co-owns a shop and from seeing the way his car runs ('73 455 Trans Am), he knows what he is doing.

Thanks for the advice guys, I will let you know how this whole thing goes.

Steve