what to do to refreshen the a 350 block
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 253
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From: Kissimmee,FL/Pennsauken,nj
Car: 85 z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
what to do to refreshen the a 350 block
i currently have a 350 block of the car it has 80+ thousand and just wanted to refreshen the motor by putting new crank and main berings, rod berings and hi-flow oil pump.
what eles should i consider in doing while the block is out. also on a tight buget so just let me know what ya guyz think.
what eles should i consider in doing while the block is out. also on a tight buget so just let me know what ya guyz think.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Step 1: Skip the high volume pump. Use a regular Melling M-55, a Mr Gasket 26 spring, and a Melling 55-S screen, and a IS-55E which is the oil pump drive shaft with a steel sleeve instead of a plastic one.
Step 2: Do all the little things that make a difference. Drill the 2 plugs in the front of the block on either side of the cam (NOT the one above the cam) with about a #65 or 70 drill bit; you'll be putting in new rings of course, pay careful attention to their end gap, you don't want either too little or too much; etc. Put roller parts wherever you can afford: lifters, rockers, etc.
Step 3: Power comes from the heads. Do some port work, especially in the bowls; use valves with undercut stems; use positive valve guide seals; etc.
Step 4: Choose your cam wisely. Pick one that works well with your induction system, whehter TPI, carb, etc. Don't over-cam it, don't get the cheapest cam you can find, pick one that matches the rest of the car ("car", not just "motor": be compatible with converter, gear, etc.) and your intended use.
Step 2: Do all the little things that make a difference. Drill the 2 plugs in the front of the block on either side of the cam (NOT the one above the cam) with about a #65 or 70 drill bit; you'll be putting in new rings of course, pay careful attention to their end gap, you don't want either too little or too much; etc. Put roller parts wherever you can afford: lifters, rockers, etc.
Step 3: Power comes from the heads. Do some port work, especially in the bowls; use valves with undercut stems; use positive valve guide seals; etc.
Step 4: Choose your cam wisely. Pick one that works well with your induction system, whehter TPI, carb, etc. Don't over-cam it, don't get the cheapest cam you can find, pick one that matches the rest of the car ("car", not just "motor": be compatible with converter, gear, etc.) and your intended use.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 2
From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
While the block's out you can clean it up all the parts and paint them. Not only does it look better, but it's easier to find leaks.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Dixon, IL
Car: RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I redoing the 350 for my 84 TA, I haven't taken it apart yet, but I'll atleast put new rings, pistons, bearings and gaskets in it, maybe bore it 30 over and make it a 355
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From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
It has been my understanding the the engine will run just a little hotter with the .030 overbore on an L98. It your bore is good I would leave it alone but with a honing. If not then go .030 over. I'am going to be doing the same thing to mine and it only has 65,000 miles. I will be installing flat-top pistons and the ZZ4 cam. It has most of the other bolt on goodies. Looking for around 300RWHP. I'am at 256RWHP now. Allen
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 2
From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
Technically it might run slightly hotter, but on the street it would be such a small difference that it wouldn't be noticeable.
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