Finally was able to drop it in tonight and the thing looks dead sexy sitting in there, its not totally sitting correctly, I got the drivers side bolt to go through the motor mount but the passenger is being a SOB to line up. Anyone know how I can put the bolt head through the front of the car, I can't clear the accessory brack, if I have to pull it i'd rather put it in through the front. I'll post pictures tomorrow, had to stop because rain is about to fall so covered the car in a tarp, pictures will be up tomorrow . Oh I think it goes without saying the t56 is in position too sitting on a jack.

 

Why? Enjoy making more work for yourself?

 

Thanks for the useless info as always.

 

the direction that the bolt goes thru the motor mount doesnt matter... id just do whatever is easiest for that side...

why is the 2nd one hard to line up? you should be able to just lower the motor down once one mount is up there, and it should slip into place... unless the trans is that far to the side.. then just push the trans over and it falls into place.....

 

Hey man,

I'd be willing to bet you used the motor mounts that came on the LT-1, right. if so you will have to change the passenger side with one of a standard small block, I ran into this while installing a LT-1 in my drag car. the driverside dropped right in but the passenger side does not line up. take a close look at it and you'll see what I mean.

 

Only way to get the bolt in is put it through from the back. You'll need a pretty good extension to tighten it up, but thats the easiest way. If you want it through the front, you'll have to loosen up the accessory mount to get the bolt all the way in.

Also, the easiest way I found to get the bolt in if the holes dont line up is to leave the drivers side bolt in, tighten up the trans mount, then use a jack and piece of wood under the oil pan to jack the engine up and down, until you can get the bolt started.

 

Nah man, I used clamshells from a Silverado, their the exact same ones from a v8 F-body, I also used motor mounts for a 1991 Z28 (brand new but ordered them for that car) Everything lined up, just had a question thats all.

Yea I thought so Texas, im not even gonna bother with the accessory bracket, only thing stopping me from putting the bolt in through the back is the old exhaust is still bolted up in the back and the y pipe is hanging in my way. Im waiting on the spohn t56 xmember so I can move the jack out from under the tranny and jack the car up to get to that bolt. Anyways, thanks.

 

Hey, unlike you I don't post incorrect information on a regular basis.

My question is: why do you want / need the bolt to go in from the front? What does it matter?

 

You won't hurt anything letting the trans. droop so you can use the jack to get the exhaust down to replace the bolt from the back.

 

wait wait, i thought you could use the LT1 motor mounts!? is this untrue?

 

Umm, when do I post mis-information on a regular basis, if im wrong, I admit it, so I screwed up about the T56 VSS, big deal, I even admitted I was wrong and you again just have to post about it without reading the thread. What else can you recall about mis-information?

I dont need someone to come on here and be a smart *** and give me jack crap for help which is something you have done (im not saying 100% the time, i've seen you post helpful information, but 7/10 times you come on to scrutnize someone about what thier doing. If you got nothing important to put, don't bother.

Anyways, for those interested I have pictures of the engine bay:

 

Second picture.....Man the passenger side is tight, gonna be a ***** to get the headers on this side, but i'll do it .

 

Problem is I can't , I need the tranny up to line that mount hole up =/. Which was the main question, i'll edit my above post since you corrected yours.

 

The f-body LT1 motor mounts are quite curious in comparison. One side has the mount on the cradle, the other side has the mount on the engine. The shells which bolt to the mounts are quite a bit taller than the thirdgen shells.

 

alright, so what are you saying, if i use the LT1 mounts it will be sitting crooked? lol that would suck! and **** **** up im sure...

 

Not necessarily crooked, but definitely too high. Just use the 3rd gen mounts and you're good.

 

pasky are you still using your a/c or did you delete it?

 

Ac is still being used.

 

man pasky your my boy i got nothing againt anything you've ever said. But i got one question, why not freshen up the looks of the block before putting it on. I mean it just plain looks dirty. Before i get my new engine in, may it be an LS1 or LT1, i'm gonna get all rust off, paint the block, and get the intake painted red. Are you just gonna make it look nice after, or what?




Shane

 

Because honestly, I really don't give a **** how it looks under the hood. Im no show boat for that kinda thing, im the type to have wires hanging everywhere as long as it isn't in the way and works. Im not that **** about my engine bay :P.

 

well thats cool. I'm not **** relaly about the engine bay either but i gues sits just me, was it not finished or what?

 

Gonna start on it tomorrow, need some daylight to screw around with the exhaust, I just changed the plugs and wires tonight, put in some AC delco rapid fires, should start up nice .

 

yeah, that'll be cool. Some day i'll get my swap started. Around here at the u pick a part yards they charge only $650-850(dependint on appearance) for low mileage complete LT1s. Ad $50-100 for the tranny, may it be T56, or auto. I think i saw somewhere you day $1999.Did you shop around at the junk yards, bet for that price you still din't get a 1 year unlimited mile warentee did you? The $650-850 includes it.


All in all the swap looks nice, did you do any performance mods yet?




Shane

 

Well, I got the lt1 and tranny off ebay for 2000 complete with everything and 90 day warranty (which meant when it was installed thank ***) but I feel it was a good deal at the time, all the local junkyards here are mexicans (im puerto rican) so they speak spanish only which is no big deal but they are some big jews (not offending anyone), they never have v8 motors and when they do they wanted 1500+ just for the motor and thats without accessories.

Usually I tell em to go **** themselves literally, they must think thier parts are made of gold. Like for instance I bought a power steering reservoir this week, asked the guy how much he said 30 bucks, I was like okay, so their mechanic comes around takes it off for me, hoses and all, and the bastard tried to charge me an extra 30 for the hoses and mount, I had already given him the money.

I gave him the finger and walked to my car, he never did anything. Funny thing is everytime I go back it seems they forget who I am. Oh well, even if he would have come at me I have a concealed weapon license ( Ex Infantry, man I love Texas) and keep my .45 under my seat along with a clip so considering I go to mexico to get these parts, its always good to carry something over there. Anyways, long story short only performance mods i've done so far is I got some 1" 5/8 headers /w 3" Y pipe and 3" cat.

 

how did you mount the a/c compressor or do you have a vette lt1?

 

a/c compressor mounts in the stock 4th gen F-Body location. You can see the top of the compressor pulley in both photos

 

i know its in the stock location, but don't you have to put a notch in the sub-frame for it to fit, or is that the ls1 swap only?

 

Ok, I wasn't sure what you were asking. Yes you do have to notch the crossmember. The easiest way is just get a torch and a hammer, heat it up some and "persuade" it with the hammer. Doesn't take all that much.

 

pasky, I think your motor looks great. Mine looks stock. I like to open the hood and act like a dumbass and get suckers to race me.

keep up the good work!

 

Thanks serpent. Right now im having a hell of a time with these SLP headers, I went to autozone and picked up some header bolts and found out they dont fit half of the header holes and just got discouraged to work any further today =/. I got the drivers side all lined up but too lazy and tired to see what type of bolts I need.

 

headers can be a biotch like that. I usually end up filing out some of the holes to make it easier to get the bolts started, then sometimes i have to ding the tube in a little. I have hooker comp headers on my jeep, I used header bolts, some regular bolts with spacers for some brackets and in some spots i used those capscrews that take an allen wrench. I had to put one of the capscrews in my drill, spin it and hold the grinder to it to make the head smaller. Then i have a few wrenches that I grinded and bent so I could tighten all this crap. I soak the gaskets in water and tighten them a few times after it's been run a little. then i pray they don't come loose anyway.

I have manifolds on the camaro and i'll probably just leave them.

 

Yea getting them in place isn't a problem its just I broke 2 brand new spark plugs and just dont feel like scavenging through bolts to find some that will fit not to mention they are a bitch to tighten up. I've been workin on this all week and my back is killin me and I just cant get myself to go back out there :P.

 

The whole projects looks and sounds good nice job.

What cat-back are you gonna go with and did you think about doing a cam swap since you had the engine out.

 

Nah, I ordered a hooker 3" single in 3" single out muffler. Im gonna have a exhaust shop bend me a three inch pipe from the cat to muffler so it will be a 3" single the whole way, headers are SLP 1" 5/8 to 3" collectors to a 3" Y-Pipe and 3" Cat to the muffler. Gonna be nice . As far as cam, bah I can do that while its in the car :P, im gonna wait ti'll about the end of this year and then im going LT4, I don't want to add any other bolt-ons until I upgrade the suspension later this summer.

 

well, you go do that.... go ahead, buy some LT1/trans combos for $950.... you'll make a killing everywhere else... because they all sell for 1500+

 

have any of you guys used an a/c delete? where is a good place to get one, i dont really want to put any notches in my subframe and i could care less about a/c just gives me an even better excuse to always have my windows down in the summer, doesnt get past 95 degrees here usually neway

 

Ummm if you use an AC delete pulley its easy as cake, you wont have to do anything and you can remove all the AC components from out of your car. Only thing ya need to do is buy another belt :P.

 

A/C delete uses the original belt. I am using the belt that came with my engine. I used allen head bolts on the other holes on my SLP's. I hope you don't have any clearance issues with your header and steering sector.

 

Ok thanks for the info, I always thought you used another belt. As far as header clearance, the driver side was easy to line up, just had to take off a valve cover, its the passenger side that is scaring me, that thing looks like it is going to be tight .

 

Mine fit pretty tight, but I did have to pry my heater tube off my header.

 

yea i have heard many horror stories of people trying to get their headers in and denting them up and the like, so just be gentle, where would i acquire a a/c delete pulley though?

 

I ordered mine from www.paceparts.com but other people get theirs from gmpartsdirect.

 

Heya bingo, you know a local parts store that carries header bolts that will work and are easy to get to and tighten? The ones I bought are hard as hell to tighten up and also I need some long ones because 2 on each side of the headers require some long studs. Thanks.

 

i just checked pace parts and found that the a/c delete pulley is 50 bux, is that right? that seems high i didnt think they were that much, they sure aren't worth that

 

gmpartsdirect is cheaper i think, yup from them its $35.




Shane

 

sweet could you give me the link, i went to their site and was dumbfounded, you need like the ****in part number and ****, that pisses me off, what if i just wanna browse!!!!! is there a BROWSE option? thanks guys!

 

GMpartsdirect may be cheaper, but they make it back through shipping
. $50 aint even bad for a ac delete pulley.

 

it might not b a bad price compared to whoever else sells them, but i think it is very high considering the part and what it is made up of... mayb im wrong i dunno just my opinion... thanks

 

Yea, I know what you mean its a peice of metal with a pulley. I alwasy think the same way about some of these parts that cost a crapload. But, $50 is the going rate for those I think the cheapest i've seen was 45 somewhere, but like I said, Gmpartsdirect may have stuff cheaper but they always cheat you over on shipping.

 

I got my long bolts from NAPA. I just matched up the length to what fit best. They are allen bolts, so they are easy to tighten. My other header bolts are regular header bolts with a 3/8 head. If you have the bolts with a 7/16 head you could switch. My rear on the passenger was still a pain until I deleted A/C. I was disappointed when I received my delete pulley; all it is is a triangular shaped piece of aluminum with a plastic pulley. I can't really complain since it works.