Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 07:23 PM
  #1  
UCF1Slider's Avatar
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From: Orlando, Florida
Car: '89 RS Vert
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Ground up

I've been reading these forums for a while and it seems there are a number of you out there that know a lot about sbc engines so I thought it best to ask from those with experience.

I am starting a project car and I'm looking for some help with planning the engine out. I am new to the car scene so I have a lot of questions and a lot more patience.

Here's the plan so far:

I would like to build up a 350 bare block to a 383 stroker, selecting all my own parts for the build. I will be using this car as the ever-popular weekend warrior and I would especially like this car to be able to hit low-mid 10s in the 1/4. Whether that means supercharging / turbo (or twin) so be it, but I don't want to use any NO2.

I know it's very important to have the right combination of parts which is why I want to plan the parts and engine out before I lift a tool (other than a calculator).

Therefore I am looking for someone who has some time to chat and would like to help out a first time engine swapper achieve his dream

You can contact me a number of ways:
Email - kryptonite_boss@hotmail.com or ucf1slider@gmail.com
MSN - kryptonite_boss@hotmail.com
AIM - UCF1Slider
or by phone (contact me thru pm for #)

I'd really appreciate any advice you guys can give whether it be in a reply to this post or through any of my contact info

Thanks,
-Kyle-
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 08:52 PM
  #2  
unknown_host's Avatar
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
In my opinion, for a beginnner the cheapest most reliable way would be a n/a, carb, auto tranny setup.

How much do you think you would have to spend on the engine/transmission/drivetrain

It still wont be cheap, heads and valvetrain are where you are going to spend the majority of your money.
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 09:03 PM
  #3  
UCF1Slider's Avatar
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From: Orlando, Florida
Car: '89 RS Vert
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Well, I will spend what I need to to make it happen... I was thinking about putting a T-56 trans in there which I don't really have a # on yet. I thought I might be able to find one in a junkyard and have it rebuilt? Good idea?

Engine - at a bare minimum $5000, I want to get the best parts for the money of course... but as any beginner I am sure I probably have no idea what I'm talking about. In order to hit 10s I figure I'll need some strong, durable parts for the engine... 4340 steel rods for example. Dished pistons are probably going to be necessary in order to lower my static compression ratio so that when I use a turbo/supercharger the ratio wont be so high that I have to use 110 octane to move the car. I want to spend some good money on heads because according to the great John Lingenfelter "heads are the most important part of the engine."

Apparently he believes that great heads and a decent cam will make much better power than a great cam with crappy heads.... so if he says it, I believe it

I'd really like some info on how to manipulate an engine's power curve though.... I read that the intake port diameter and length have a big effect on power curve and combustion chamber volume and etc, I'd appreciate any input or examples of mixes / matches of intakes with heads and such and what their power curves look like.

-Kyle-
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 09:59 PM
  #4  
unknown_host's Avatar
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by UCF1Slider
Well, I will spend what I need to to make it happen... I was thinking about putting a T-56 trans in there which I don't really have a # on yet. I thought I might be able to find one in a junkyard and have it rebuilt? Good idea?

Engine - at a bare minimum $5000, I want to get the best parts for the money of course... but as any beginner I am sure I probably have no idea what I'm talking about. In order to hit 10s I figure I'll need some strong, durable parts for the engine... 4340 steel rods for example. Dished pistons are probably going to be necessary in order to lower my static compression ratio so that when I use a turbo/supercharger the ratio wont be so high that I have to use 110 octane to move the car. I want to spend some good money on heads because according to the great John Lingenfelter "heads are the most important part of the engine."

Apparently he believes that great heads and a decent cam will make much better power than a great cam with crappy heads.... so if he says it, I believe it

I'd really like some info on how to manipulate an engine's power curve though.... I read that the intake port diameter and length have a big effect on power curve and combustion chamber volume and etc, I'd appreciate any input or examples of mixes / matches of intakes with heads and such and what their power curves look like.

-Kyle-
I think the easiest way to do it for a beginner would be to build a big horsepower naturally aspirated (no turbo, no supercharger) motor.

Invest your money in heads. Go with a cyhlinder head like a GM High Port on a 18* or 15* valve angle. Stick with your 383, go for 11.5:1 compression and a big solid roller cam.

I have a friend with a 406 making 737 horsepower with a high port, solid roller cammed motor on 13:1 compression. Less cam, less compression and I am sure you could hit 675 horsepower on pump gas.
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 11:20 AM
  #5  
UCF1Slider's Avatar
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From: Orlando, Florida
Car: '89 RS Vert
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
So you think it's possible with the right match of components to be able to make ~650hp n/a? That would be great if that's possible cuz I wouldn't even need any aftermarket turbo or supercharger.... You think a T-56 transmission would be a good match with its gear ratios? What about a new rear end? I was told I'd probably have problems putting more than 500ft lbs of TQ to the ground with the current rear end I have in my 92... I was told I should get a Moser with a higher gear ratio like 3.73?

-Kyle-
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 04:58 PM
  #6  
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by UCF1Slider
So you think it's possible with the right match of components to be able to make ~650hp n/a? That would be great if that's possible cuz I wouldn't even need any aftermarket turbo or supercharger.... You think a T-56 transmission would be a good match with its gear ratios? What about a new rear end? I was told I'd probably have problems putting more than 500ft lbs of TQ to the ground with the current rear end I have in my 92... I was told I should get a Moser with a higher gear ratio like 3.73?

-Kyle-
Are you dead set on a manual transmission car? It makes a few things a little trickier when it comes to building a drag car...

You will definitely want an aftermarket rear, a 12 bolt would be fine. Gear ratio will depend on the transmission we choose for you.

The more streetable you want to make this car, the more money it will take and the harder your goals will be to achieve.
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 05:29 PM
  #7  
UCF1Slider's Avatar
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From: Orlando, Florida
Car: '89 RS Vert
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
I have to have a manual transmission..... I had an automatic and you have so much more control over the car with manual, gotta let the girls know you're comin with a nice 15mph cruise in 1st gear thru the parking lot at the local mall. It's more about control than anything else though.

Secondly, the main purpose for this car isn't to drag race.... basically I'd like to have a car that will turn everyone's head when I pull into the weekly car show with all the **** and euro fans. I want to show them the style of a domestic with the true american muscle to back it up.

I only really need the car to be able to cruise to the show and back..... perhaps a little 1/4 mile detour for any ***** who thinks he's got nuts

As far as the transmission goes... does the T-56 sound like it would be a good match for what I just told you? I live about 10 minutes from where the show takes place, but there are shows all over Orlando that are any where from 10 mins to 45 mins away and I'd like to be able to hit them all.... if I gotta spend some money on gas for the weekend then so-be-it.

-Kyle-
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 11:05 PM
  #8  
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
There is a lot more to a reliably 10 second slip than just the engine. The transmission needs to take the abuse. Unless you are dead set on the manual transmission, I would look into a built th400 or something along those lines (since the auto trans is the proven performer at the track). A 3500 stall would compliment the cam and rear gearing nicely.

Plan on bolstering the rear end as well. From the factory, I am not sure how much I would trust the rear axle. If it were my car, a 12 bolt or maybe even the jump to the Ford 9".

Also consider all the safety regulations required for a 10 second time slip....

Find me on AIM and we can talk.
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Old Nov 16, 2004 | 09:22 AM
  #9  
UCF1Slider's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 114
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From: Orlando, Florida
Car: '89 RS Vert
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Well, I have been discussing my project with a few members and though they have been very helpful I'd like to hear from the rest of you!

I'm trying to pick out some heads/intake/cam that will be capable of hitting 600hp to the ground either with/without forced induction. (I'd also like to know if you guys think 600hp is achievable n/a??)

I'm trying to plan everything out so there won't be any mistakes down the road. If you have experience building engines please reply or contact me with through the info I put in my first post of this thread. I appreciate it you guys

-Kyle-
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