Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

Need help making a choice.

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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 10:14 PM
  #1  
Mikerace15's Avatar
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From: Wayne NJ
Car: 1988 Red IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI V8
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Need help making a choice.

I currently have an '88 IROC with a tired 305 TPI in it. I plan on pulling the engine out over the winter but cant decide what to put back in. I want to keep the TPI intake and have approx 300 rwhp. What would be the best and most affordable way to achive my goal? Can I rebuild the 305 to make the numbers I want or should I just swap to a 350? Does anyone have any other combinations to suggest? What kind of budget would I need to do this? Any Help would be Appreciated.
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 02:50 PM
  #2  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
300 RWHP with TPI is a huge, expensive undertaking. The most sensible way to get there is to build a bulletproof 350 and spray it.
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 03:41 PM
  #3  
rocluvr0013's Avatar
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From: Chico/Antioch California
Car: 1989 iroc Z Hardtop
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Look into boost... and 7749...

or nitrous...

if your talkingabout 300 RWhp
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 10:22 PM
  #4  
Mikerace15's Avatar
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From: Wayne NJ
Car: 1988 Red IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI V8
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Well I really dont want to get into nitros, so it looks like the 300 rwhp is out. How about 300 hp at the crank? Im figuring this would be alot cheaper. I've been doing some math lately and figure on a budget of arround $3000.
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 11:38 PM
  #5  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
What, if anything, have you done with exhaust so far? If nothing, expect to spend about $800 or so for headers and everything on back.

TPI upgrades ain't cheap. Base, $300-$400, runners $300, TB, cam, etc. It just keeps adding up. And, the 350 will have to have decent heads or you're dead.

You should probably figure on $3000 plus the 350 itself.
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 03:18 AM
  #6  
rocluvr0013's Avatar
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From: Chico/Antioch California
Car: 1989 iroc Z Hardtop
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
look into Ltx lsx swaps... a cammed ls1 will be close to 300 rwhp and its aluminum 2... Might be able to pull that off with 3000 if you shop around
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 01:55 PM
  #7  
Mikerace15's Avatar
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From: Wayne NJ
Car: 1988 Red IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI V8
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I currently have a full hooker cat-back system. no headers though. I am looking to keep the TPI intake system. So what kind of tpi 350 can I build for $3000?
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 04:29 PM
  #8  
1991 RS/SS's Avatar
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From: Midwest
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
There is no replacement for displacement. I would recommend rebuilding the motor to a 383 stroker. Dont go too big though or you will have cooling issues. Also, get a bigger throttle body (52mm on a 350 or 58mm on a 383). If you are using the "wishbone" style intake (over the radiator), ditch it. A new cold air style intake will be good for an honest 15 flywheel horse. Get a hold of a good company that makes cams and does custom programming to match (T.P.I. Specialties has been extremely helpful to me in building my LT-1). Get your heads ported or opt for some new ones (I have had good luck with AFR's). Headers are a necessity in making power, too.
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 11:42 PM
  #9  
rocluvr0013's Avatar
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From: Chico/Antioch California
Car: 1989 iroc Z Hardtop
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
The problem with the tpi intake is it really limits top end horsepower. You can make one hell of a stump puller with it and a great street car but its going to choke anything that wants to run up high.

I would recommend a stealth ram, decent set of heads a good tune 3.43's that would put you close to your $ limit... and make more then enough power for a street car on a budget.
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 07:10 PM
  #10  
Mikerace15's Avatar
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From: Wayne NJ
Car: 1988 Red IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI V8
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Well Its obious that I should ditch the 305. I plan on looking through the local salvage yards this weekend for a 350 block. Is there any particualr casting years I should look for? and what would be a fair price on a salvaged 350 block? Will the sensors from my 305 work with the 350?
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 11:19 PM
  #11  
1991 RS/SS's Avatar
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From: Midwest
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I would recommend trying to get a motor with a one-piece rear seal (less prone to leakage in my experiences) and 4-bolt main bearing caps. It will be harder to find a 4-bolt main, and more expensive, but will provide a much stronger bottom end if you ever do decide to use nitrous or a supercharger. You can probably get a complete engine with minimal cylinder wear (but still needs to be rebuilt) for between $250 and $500 depending where you live. Most all of your sensors should work as all small block chevs are pertty much universal. Your sensors are going to be more tailored to your car than the motor anyway. I am not much up on which years or casting numbers are best, but I am sure that somebody on this forum can answer that.
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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 11:29 PM
  #12  
1991 RS/SS's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 325
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From: Midwest
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Almost forgot, You do have to change the knock sensor. Not a big deal though.
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