LG4 help
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Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Milton FL near Pensacola FL
Car: 1985 Z-28 2003 chevy Silverado Z71
Engine: was 305 LG4 now 355 HO
Transmission: TH700r4
Axle/Gears: posi 373
LG4 help
I have a 1985 Z-28 with the LG4 and i really love the car she just hit 160,000 miles still runing strong but i have been talking to this local car shop the guy told me he could do a proformnce rebulid an get me about 280 - 300 hp cost 2,500 too 3,000 bucks still keep the motor looking 100% stock wich i want. What do you guys think about that worth it or not?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Milton FL near Pensacola FL
Car: 1985 Z-28 2003 chevy Silverado Z71
Engine: was 305 LG4 now 355 HO
Transmission: TH700r4
Axle/Gears: posi 373
numbers
but i want to keep the numbers matching with the vin number and the block for resale value 20+ years from now. So, i want to work with what I have. Opinions?
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 2
From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Put your #'s matching block in the corner of the garage. It is very easy to stamp whatever #'s you want into your new larger engine after you deck it.
Resale value, what's that???
Resale value, what's that???
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
20 years from now we'll probabily be driveing cars that do not run on gasoline. Most likely Electric/Hydrogen.
Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Car: 95 Camaro Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E w/ shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
Originally posted by F-BIRD'88
20 years from now we'll probabily be driveing cars that do not run on gasoline. Most likely Electric/Hydrogen.
20 years from now we'll probabily be driveing cars that do not run on gasoline. Most likely Electric/Hydrogen.
If I own a vehicle for over 20 years, chances are, I won't sell it.
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,521
Likes: 204
From: NYC / Jersey
Car: 1990 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Turbo 305 w/MS2
Transmission: 700R4
Re: numbers
Originally posted by 19kilo.but i want to keep the numbers matching with the vin number and the block for resale value 20+ years from now.
Take the advice from above.... pull the stock engine, put it somewhere where it's safe, and get yourself a crate engine.
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 966
Likes: 2
From: NE Ohio
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS
If they think they can get 280 to 300 hp out of it you are going to lose the "stock look" anyway. For one, they will put some kind of dual snorkle or open element air cleaner on, and headers to start. The LG4 requires these to make more hp. Then when the tear it apart and put in a new cam I'm not sure what the numbers matching is going to help. If you really what the "stock look" to the point of matching numbers then then you better leave it stock.
my 2 cents.
my 2 cents.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Milton FL near Pensacola FL
Car: 1985 Z-28 2003 chevy Silverado Z71
Engine: was 305 LG4 now 355 HO
Transmission: TH700r4
Axle/Gears: posi 373
ok
What if i wanted to put a new motor in it what should i put in there?
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,337
Likes: 71
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Anything you put in there will require better exhaust, preferably headers and 3 inch all the way back. After that it really depends on your budget. A low-buck, truck 350 crate can be had for less than $1500. A vortec 350HO runs around $2300. Check Jegs, Summit, SDPC or the GM site for crate engines.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You aren't really asking carb questions, you're asking engine swap questions. So, let's move it there.
As for what to put in, you'll get plenty of hints by looking over recent posts in the Engine Swap forum. You can see what I did in my sig (it was a 2-stage process, begun in 2001, completed summer of 2005). The carb system itself doesn't require much to handle the larger engine, no more than you'd have to do to get the LG4 running better. Depending upon how much work you do yourself, $2500-$3000 can get you a pretty decent running car.
Don't even consider any "performance" engine work until you handle the outside-the-engine requirements; namely, exhaust and air cleaner improvements. That's going to run you somewhere between $500-$1000, depending upon your emissions inspection/testing requirements. Then you can think about upgrading the engine itself.
The only give-aways on my engine from "stock looking" are the chrome valve covers (the reason for them is a long story, which I won't get into here except to say being chrome had nothing to do with why I bought them) and the headers.
As for what to put in, you'll get plenty of hints by looking over recent posts in the Engine Swap forum. You can see what I did in my sig (it was a 2-stage process, begun in 2001, completed summer of 2005). The carb system itself doesn't require much to handle the larger engine, no more than you'd have to do to get the LG4 running better. Depending upon how much work you do yourself, $2500-$3000 can get you a pretty decent running car.
Don't even consider any "performance" engine work until you handle the outside-the-engine requirements; namely, exhaust and air cleaner improvements. That's going to run you somewhere between $500-$1000, depending upon your emissions inspection/testing requirements. Then you can think about upgrading the engine itself.
The only give-aways on my engine from "stock looking" are the chrome valve covers (the reason for them is a long story, which I won't get into here except to say being chrome had nothing to do with why I bought them) and the headers.
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