Hey, I recently bought a 350 1 piece rmc out of my friends 88 suburban. My game plan is to bring the shortblock into the machine shop and have him redo all bearings, cam bearings, ARP rod bolts on stock rods, and install forged pistons. My plan for the motor is to achieve near 450 fwhp. I'm looking for a 10.5:1 compression ratio. I'm also looking at my cousins pair of bow tie heads, me and my friend are looking at them tonight, I am hoping for 64cc chambers. My questions for you guys would be cam selection. And my more important question is how many rpm's are the stock crank and rods, w/ new bolts/bearings capable of?

Thanks in advance.

Zach

 

Any one have any advice, I posted this a while back and got zero replies. Any help is appreciated.

Zach

 

Define "capable".



You want the RPMs they'll go to ONCE? or for 500 miles (well, 505 or whatever with qualifying, plus maybe a couple extra for practice laps)? or all day every day?

Will you tolerate a 50% chance of failure? 10%? 5%? 1%? Less?

What would the consequences of failure be? Stranding in the desert? Having to drive your Ferrari instead on pretty weekend days? Walking to work? The poorhouse?



Let's just say, you're wasting your money on Bowtie heads, running a stock production vehicle cast crank and those old rods. The heads are designed to flow to 7500 RPM or so.

I believe I'd plan on about 6000 RPMs max, with any kind of regularity. Maybe 6500 once or twice in its lifetime.

 

Ok, this is my weekend driver, and drag race car. Do you guys suggest an aftermarket set of rods? I'm trying to do this on a budget, I still need a T-56 and driveshaft. And I still need to pick up the motor. What does a decently priced aftermarket set of rods cost? Which brand do you recommend? I will have to use the stock crank. What RPM can i rev to with this combo? Thanks guys.

Zach

 

with all arp studs on the motor and eagle forged i beam rods or a set of powdered metal connecting rods you shouldn't have a problem with 6,500 i wouldn't think (don't quote me though ask someone else with more experience).

 

Typically, stock components rods and crank are good for 500Hp and 7000 rpm. Keep in mind a performance engine has a shorter life than a stock engine.

"Stronger" parts doesn't actually mean better. A lot of these high strength cranks are very brittle and can fail during normal street use. Stock rods and cranks are pretty good and flexible. Most people buying stronger aftermarket parts are throwing away their cash.

 

Thanks alot for the replies. The reason I am going with the bow tie heads is that my cousin races circle track at our local track, and his buddy gave them to him. He cannot use them on the track because they are illegal. This is why I am purchasing them from him, for a very reasonable price. I will be using stock re conditioned rods and a stock crank w/ new bearings. My goal is for 450 fwhp, if not more if possible, and i was hoping i could rev the motor to 6500 without any real issues.

Zach

 

Not bashing or anything,but why a T-56 on a weekend driver/Drag Car?Not like a 450HP engine will get good mileage,or cruise at 1800RPM.

Just my thoughts,but if you question the parts,ditch the T-56 and go with all forged parts.
If you gotta have the tranny,at least go with a set of Eagle SIR rods.The quality is excellent,they balance well,and are only $250-$300 a set

 

That is true Irocz, I have pondered the Eagle rods myself. I might do it. The reason for the T-56 is I just love banging my own gears, I know it might be slower in the quarter, but I need a manual.

Zach

 

I'll start by saying that I'm a huge T56 fan myself and plan to swap one behind my LT1 when I can afford it. But, if it's a weekend 1/4 mile car, why not go with a (much) cheaper and just as strong(if not stronger) 4 speed like a Muncie M22?

 

What do I have to do to get a Munsie 4 speed to fit in my car? The M22. Would it bolt up to a 1 piece rms?

Zach

 

The T-56 will be fine. Don't over-complicate things. If it'll stand up to what the motors it comes with STOCK are putting out, it won't have any trouble with what you're doing. There's not enough difference in strength between a T-56 and a M22 Muncie, if indeed there's any at all, to justify using a transmission that's 35 years old, or more.

The transmission does not care how many pieces the engine's rear main seal is composed of.