This will be my first time pulling an engine/droping one in..

Ive searched the forum and couldnt find any really relevant information on removing an engine.

My friend patt has a 350 in his 87 blazer, his transmission died so he is willing to give me his engine.

I blew up my 350 by running out of oil and throwing a rod through my oil pan

There are only a very few things that im concerned about..

1: Ive never pulled an engine before.. I plan on leaving the automatic transmission in my camaro, Ive read that im going to need to drain the trans fluid.. correct me if im wrong here.

2: I basically see it as this: remove all accessories from engine that will hold the engine in the bay.. unbolt the transmission bolts, attach cherry picker to engine, unbolt engine mounts, pull engine. Correct me if im wrong here..

3: Im assuming pulling an engine is the same thing as putting an engine in.. only reverse.

Like I said, this will be my first pull/drop so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Im a noob, so please, flame if you wish.

 

There wouldn't be any need to drain the tranny fluid - the front seal on the tranny keeps the fluid inside.

The only pulls I've done, I pulled the tranny and engine as a combo. This is a preference issue I suppose - to me, it was easier to pul them as a unit, than to try and get the tranny disconnected from the engine and leave it there. In the time it takes most just to get the tranny disconnected (as the top-side bolts are a PITA), I had them both out. I also wondered how anyone got the motor lined back up with the tranny - I always thought it was hard enough to get a tranny lined up with an in-place motor, let alone the opposite.

In addition, it made it easier to deal with my tranny while I was there. I replaced filter, installed a shift kit, and a lock-up solenoid for the torque converter - all done right-side up on my butt, instead of upside-down on my back!

If by chance you choose to remove both as a combo like I did, make sure you get a load leveler on the picker - it makes life so much easier (since the tranny adds so much weight to the rear side during removal). You'll also need to disconnect the drive shaft - jack the rear of the car for this - that way when you remove the shaft, the tranny fluid stays in the tranny - then get a tranny plug (or a Tylenol bottle the right size) to plug the rear of the tranny and keep the fluid in.

You'll need to remove the radiator as well - you may could get the engine out with it in, but why risk poking a hole in it when your swinging a 400 pound chunk of iron around?

If you jack the rear of the car before removal, it's a tad easier, as you don't have to lift the motor so high on the picker to get it over the front (the higher you lift, the more dangerous it gets).

 

Pulling the tranny with the engine was such a pain for me. Dented up my firewall (slightly, but still was annoying), alot more weight to deal with, more things to unbolt and rebolt up.

I'd just put a support under the front of the tranny, unbolt it, then pull the engine. Beats unbolting the crossmember, unplugging the wiring, pulling the driveshaft, dealing with the tranny sticking far out the back of the engine (harder to balance and position, etc).

 

alright well from what i read, the most diffucult part im going to expierence is bolting my engine up the the tranny.. I really dont feel like going through the extra trouble of pulling the tranny out also because ive never worked on anything transmission related and i dont want to screw things up.

This seems like a fairly painless task but its still very intimidating. Ill be happy when I can say that ive replaced the engine myself

 

also, what kind of costs am I looking at?

Im going to need to rent a chery picker, ive heard that costs about 45 dollars a day to rent.

Am I going to have to replace the trans/engine bolts? are those like the headbolts where once they have been used, you cant re-use them?

My dad wants an overhead figure of how much hes going to have to spend. thats why im asking.

 

Bolts are reusable.

You may want to consider new motor mounts since your there - now's the time to do them. Most use poly - check summitracing.com for price. You could also replace the front seal on the tranny if needed - check on it while it's exposed. Check flywheel for broken teeth or cracking anywhere. Now would also be the time for a higher stall torque converter if desired - the S10 converter is a cheap popular swap, and gives closer to 2000 stall on a 350 (about $275 from GMpartsdirect.com).

And of course, any gaskets needed for swapping accessories (such as water pump gaskets, oil pan gaskets, etc.). Check the new motor for leak evidence - may need intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, etc. Also would want new exhaust manifold gaskets. And now would be easier to do a timing chain (double roller chain $50). Just the general stuff - you'll see it as it goes - always expect to spend $200 on junk, and gas back and forth to the parts house lol.

 

I was going to swap my motor mounts to poly but being a daily driver I decided to stay stock and will be using rubber to avoid the vibrations down the road.

I don't know if I lucked out or what, but I unbolted my tranny from the engine bay. Just reached back there and got all 6 out without a problem. I installed the engine and tranny by myself without a problem. Certainly made the process alot easier if you have thin arms.

 

yeah im a pretty skinny fellow so I guess that should help.

One thing im worried about is the motor mounts now.. Im going to be running a performer rpm intake and hood clearance is already an issue, If I put on new mounts, wont that raise up my engine?

I know that I need a cowl hood, but im saving up for that, right now I have a 2 inch air cleaner that ive basically squished to 1 inch so it will fit *super restrictive, but it works?*

 

I'm not sure regarding clearance since I run fuel injection, but new motor mounts raise the engine about inch I was told.

 

Thanks this is just what i needed to know.

 

dude....i dont have any idea why you would pay 265 for a torque convertor that stalls at 2k when u can get a b&m that stalls at 2.6k for 120...as for the moter mounts just buy new stock replacments....its not a race car and they will hold the moter just fine and keep you from vibrating your *** out of the car.........i would how ever pull the tranny with the moter.....easier to service like that............as for the hood clearance...just get one of those lil bitty air cleaners from advance

 

If you can find me a new TQ for a 1991 camaro with a 700r4 trany with a stall speed of 2600 for only 120 then give me a link to the website or a phone number or something because most of the ones on jegs summit they are all right around 300 dollars

 

 

you have rec'd some good advice on your swap. in my experience,it is easier to remove the engine and tranny together. i have an 87 z28 and it was very difficult to get at the tranny bolts from inside the engine bay. also take heed of removing the wiper motor, i broke mine in my removal.

 

Definently was easier to remove engine/tranny together though im replacing both.

Kinda interesting...i came no where close to hitting the wiper motor when i pulled my motor/tranny together and it was my first time. I removed the radiator, fans, front bumper cover though so i didnt risk damaging any of that. About the only casulty on my removal was my oil pan wacked the front radiator support...

 

well you got luck i've seen alot and broke just 1 before i learned to pull the wiper motor but pulling the motor and trans is the easyest way to get it all out

 

I,ve never broken a wiper motor and have done many engine R&R's. if you dont need to do anything on the trans then leave it where it rests just suport the front end, make sure you remove the 3 flexplate to torque converter bolts before you pull the motor (14mm), this will save the front seal from getting torn up and possible dammage to the trans pump. mark and remove the hood for extra clearance. unbolt the A/C and set to side, unbolt P/S and set to side, lable all wires and place out of way. remove carb and distributor to reduce chance of damage. drain the oil to reduce weight and less mess if you dammage pan. when you go to put the new engine in get 2, 6 inch bolts that fit the bellhousing threads cut off the heads and lightly install in holes just above the dowel pins, this will help greatly for lining up the engine to trans. above all else take your time and check everything for clearance issues. I can pull a motor out of my camaro in 45 minutes without dammaging anything but I've done it a few more times than you.