This is going to be my first engine build so any suggestions, tips, tricks to keep me out of any major trouble is very appreciated. These are the parts i am thinking of using for my 383 build.

gm performance parts 383 block, 1 piece rear main seal, clearenced to fit a 3.8" crank and has a 4 inch bore. Have to have it bored .030"

Eagle street/strip rotating assembly 6 inch rods 3.75" crank

Crane mechanical roller cam 240/248 @.050 .543/.561 110 degree lobe seperation

Crane gold race 1.5 rockers

Dart pro 1 top end kit Consists of pro 1 aluminum heads 215 cc intake runners and 64 cc chambers, Dart single plane intake manifold and valve covers.

moroso pump and pan

Mighty demon 750 cfm Carb

I now my post is long but thanks for reading it pls give me any tips or suggestions u have. Also i am going to put this engine in my 86 iroc i want it to be a street/strip car mostly street but not a daily driver a weekend car. The main thing i am not sure about is the cam pls tell me if my cam is a good choice or give me ur suggestions but i definately want a lopey idle. Also any veteran engine builders give me any tips or trick u now on engine building to keep me out of trouble. I need all the information i can get.

Thanks

 

If you're getting a new block, why bore it?

 

make sure u use a one piece rubber gasket for tha oil pan, and get ur oil sinin unit welled(Melling is a good band). Make sure u got tha right torque #'s on tha crank. I went with stock but heavy duty rock arm and push rods, but roll rockers, and roller cam are next...good luck

 

Apeiron to make a 383 doesn't the bore have to be 4.030" and the stroke 3.75". The block has a 4 inch bore wouldn't i have to bore it .030 over. If i am mistaking pls explain.

 

Nope, if you bore it .030 over it becomes a 388. A 383 is a 350 block with a 400 crank. If it's a brand new block then you definately don't need to bore it.

Edit, I was double checking myself and I was wrong. With stock bore you have a 377, with .030 over you have 383, and with .060 over you get 383. But the bottom line is you don't need to bore it over with a brand new block.

 

Choose your crank. You said you're using a 3.8" stroke. Therefore no bore is needed unless you want to for more displacement. (Nothing wrong with that!)

3.8" x 4" = 382
3.8" x 4.03" = 387.7
3.75" x 4" = 377
3.75" x 4.03" = 382.7

Cheers

Edit: Oooops I was thinking of GMs 3.8" crank. Sorry.

 

I think it depends on what pistons u use also...mine is bore 40 over

 

I am actually going to use a 3.75" crank, i said that the block comes clearenced to fit up to a 3.8" crank. If i dont bore it to 4.030 i wont get 383 ci right. I thought that in order to build a 383 u need a 4.030 bore and a 3.75" crank. Anyways tell me what u think of my parts combo.

 

Don't bore it, stick with a 377 leaves room for boreing later, 5 cubes will not make much difference I promise you. Just more money you have to fork over

 

Thanks alot nelapse i think i will stick with a 377 do u think my list of parts are good and how much power do u think it will make.
Any suggestions are welcome

 

The only reason that 383s are bored is because they're most often built with used blocks that need to be bored to clean up the cylidner walls. If you're using brand new block that's already finished, there's no point wasting money and material on the block having it bored again.

Like nelapse says, you won't notice any difference.

 

The only problem is i cant seem to find a rotating assembly with a 3.75" crank and 4 inch pistons. They all use the 4.030" pistons. I want a rotating assembly so all the parts work together without any problems. If i wanted to i could get the block bored right. Also how much does boring a block run.

 

If you wanted to have the block bored you could.

The companies that put engine kits together will usually allow you to substitute parts to meet your needs. Call them and ask if they'd do a kit for a 4" bore.

 

Im leaning towars boring the block, cause its easier to get parts and more cubes ( i no 6 cubes doesnt make a difference but)

Can anyone tell me if the parts i selected will be a good combination and what power level i should expect.

 

I agree on the "why bore it?" part. That's money that you will need/want for the odds and ends that will pop up.

 

Does anyone know of a block that comes with a 4.030" bore and is clearences to fit a 3.75" crank. If u do pls tell me where i can find it. Also which is better a one piece rear seal or a two piece.

common guys no comments on my parts choice.

 

You're gonna spend a lot money for a first engine build. The bottom end is important, and one should not use junk, but stock GM 350 used block will work just fine. You could probably pick one up for $50, hell someone gave me my block a couple years ago. Any reputable machine shop will be able to check it, clean it up, bore it, and even clearance it for the extra stroke. It cost me $400 for all my machine work. However, I don't know what a new GM 383 block cost, so if its reasonable then go for it.

Eagle crank and rods, good stuff. I used Scat products and have not had a single problem.

Good call on the heads and intake. I used the 200cc intake runner Pro 1 aluminum heads. The heads are absolutely vital to power production, spend your money there. You could also look into AFR heads as well. If you run Hooker super comp headers, you'll need the angle plugs. No clearance issues with angle plugs/super comp headers.

The solid roller is awesome, no doubt, but now you run into expensive springs and the "hassle" of constantly adjusting valves. I have a hydraulic roller, it screams all the way to 6500rpm, and makes tons of torque. Even better, its totally maintenance free.

If you build the engine you've specified and tune it correctly, you're gonna be making tons of power. You better have a good car to put it in. A T-5 or 700r4 isn't going to cut it and you'll need a good converter as well as a strong rear with lower gears.

 

Thanks for the reply aviator ur engine looks very powerful, how much did it cost u when u were said and done. Also how much power does it make.

 

Any guys who built a 383 list the parts you used and the power the engine made.

 

The combination looks good to me except the CAM. The advantage of going to a roller cam is that the valve is opened longer at a higher lift than can be achieved with a non roller. That being said you can get gobs of horsepower without resorting to excess duration. I would look at a Hydralic roller for that has no more than 230 duration. This will still give you buckets of power, with your combination 450 - 480 horsepower. Going with the shorter duration (230) the engine will idle a bit lumpy but still smooth enough to have good manners when you are going to get a burger. This shorter duration will also keep the vacuum at idle up in the 14hg range which also helps idle and keeps the power brakes working well.

Take it for what it is worth but I will be swaping my 240 246 duration cam out of my 383 very soon it is just no fun to drive around town. (Great at the drag strip.)

Edit: I just noticed that the heads you have selected have 64cc chambers. be carefull. A flat top piston with 64cc heads will put the compression ration at about 11:1 Unless you are planning to run race gas all of the time you will have detonation problems. With those heads you will have to run dished pistons to keep the compression ration down around 10:1. Also 220 cc runners are big for a street application. I would stick with runners in the 190 cc area. 220 cc's will reduce low end torque.



Ric

 

Thanks alot ratchet but with the cam i think im gonna stick with the cam i selected because this car is a weekend car so i want a really lopey idle and im only gonna drive this car on the weekends and at the track. Never gonna use it to commute i know that this car wont have good street manners but i dont care because this is my fun car to race around in. Also will a 700r4 stand up to this kind of power if i take it off my 305 and beef it up it was newly rebuilt a yr ago. Also ill need a high stall convertor does a 3000 stall sound good.

 

Has anyone used a rotating assembly from enginekits.com, there prices are really low so im skeptical about it. You can get a forged kit for 1200 balanced i was looking at a forged eagle kit and they wanted 1900 bucks. Also the none forged kit is only 800 bucks balanced. If anyone has used a kit from them pls tell me if the parts are good.

 

You might search on the "Aftermarket Vendors" forum, but I don't recall hearing any complaints about getting what you pay for from them.

 

You may want to take a look into the chevy pro-street kit from doug herbert. I went with this kit and it come with: Scat Nitrided 4340 Forged crank, Wiseco's Pro-tru forged flat-top pistons, Pro-tech 4340 "I" beam rods, Plasma-moly rings, clevitte 77 "H" rod/main bearings. Priced at $1359 it looks to be a really strong kit. Have it balanced by a machine shop for an extra $150 and get a used 350 block and have it bored and clearenced and you'll have yourself a very reliable and strong bottom end.

 

Thanks 1badrocz that kit sounds really good im gonna check it out, u guys got anymore comments u would like to add.