crappy 350?
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Car: Chevrolet Camaro Z28
Engine: 305cid V8
Transmission: TH700 4r
crappy 350?
So im going to put 350 in my 84 camaro,
and i was wondering is my "new" engine good or no good?
casting number is 3970010 and suffix code is TYU
and it got 882 heads...
It got edelbrock performer intake manifold and holley 650 carb and flowtech headers...
Does it make even 200hp?
Will it make any better if i replace those horrible head to less horrible 400 stock heads?
Or do i just waste my money?
Does this engine got any potential with stock internals?
And sorry about my bad english
and i was wondering is my "new" engine good or no good?
casting number is 3970010 and suffix code is TYU
and it got 882 heads...
It got edelbrock performer intake manifold and holley 650 carb and flowtech headers...
Does it make even 200hp?
Will it make any better if i replace those horrible head to less horrible 400 stock heads?
Or do i just waste my money?
Does this engine got any potential with stock internals?
And sorry about my bad english
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,874
Likes: 2,431
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
400 heads are not "less horrible". Those same castings were used on 400s. That's one reason why stock 400s sucked. Other typical 400 (or 350) head castings were 624 and 993, all of which also sucked.
Heads to get would include the old double-hump heads with bolt holes (although those are EXTREMELY difficult to find these days, and EXPENSIVE when you do); or some of the later model 305 heads, specifically 416 or 601 casting. THose need 1.94" intake valves installed in them though.
Or go aftermarket. Dart Iron Eagles for instance are not too much $$$.
No telling about the engine's "internals". You never know what's in one unless you put it there with your own hand, or until you take it back out and look at it. But, just as far as what's typical, you most likely have a cast crank (442 casting), stock rods with old bolts in them (grenades), and cast "rebuilder" dished pistons. That's just typical though, when you buy a "rebuilt" engine from the low bidder like most people do then that's what you usually get, yours could be anything at all, only way to know is to look.
Heads to get would include the old double-hump heads with bolt holes (although those are EXTREMELY difficult to find these days, and EXPENSIVE when you do); or some of the later model 305 heads, specifically 416 or 601 casting. THose need 1.94" intake valves installed in them though.
Or go aftermarket. Dart Iron Eagles for instance are not too much $$$.
No telling about the engine's "internals". You never know what's in one unless you put it there with your own hand, or until you take it back out and look at it. But, just as far as what's typical, you most likely have a cast crank (442 casting), stock rods with old bolts in them (grenades), and cast "rebuilder" dished pistons. That's just typical though, when you buy a "rebuilt" engine from the low bidder like most people do then that's what you usually get, yours could be anything at all, only way to know is to look.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
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Car: Chevrolet Camaro Z28
Engine: 305cid V8
Transmission: TH700 4r
I found these numbers from back of the block, 010 and 020
So it is better casting, and it suppose to be very desirable block, right?
So it is better casting, and it suppose to be very desirable block, right?
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,874
Likes: 2,431
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
very desirable block
Almost all of them say that. Doesn't matter in the slightest for a street motor.
Somebody here has a link to a post on chevelles.com where somebody that works at one of the GM casting plants tells the truth about those numbers.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 72
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From: Phoenix area
Car: 94 C1500
Engine: 350
Transmission: NV-4500
Axle/Gears: 3:42 10 bolt 8.5"
The "010" and "020" found on the back of the block signify that the alloy for the block has an extra 1% tin to help the molten alloy fill out the mold better, and 2% more nickel to make the alloy harder, meaning the cylinders wear longer. These numbers are also cast under the timing cover. Sounds to me like the block should be a good one, providing the cylinders and journals are within specs.
Forget the double hump heads. In 1968 they were pretty good. Today, unless you are a looking to restore an early car to glory, save your money and buy a new set of vortecs, or Darts or some other head that is a better flowing design. Besides, the old heads do not have hardened seats, so they will wear very fast.
Tim sends
Forget the double hump heads. In 1968 they were pretty good. Today, unless you are a looking to restore an early car to glory, save your money and buy a new set of vortecs, or Darts or some other head that is a better flowing design. Besides, the old heads do not have hardened seats, so they will wear very fast.
Tim sends
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