So I bought a 350 that was pulled form an 80's truck. The casting # on the block is 14010207, everything checked out with that. The heads are the smogger 624's and I know that they need to go. My planes so far are heads that will flow nice but arent too expensive, a mild cam(non roller) edelbrock performer intake, maybe a carb, and leave the bottom end stock.

So I got a few questions. What heads should I get? What cam should I get. I dont want a cam thats too big as this is my DD. Theres like 4 different kinds of edelbrock intakes, whats one would match up nice with my setup. Should I leave the stock qjet on there or buy a 600cfm edelbrock carb? Just wanted to get these questions out and match everything up correctly the first time , lol Thanks!

Steven

 

Personally I would go with a comp 262-268xe with vortec heads.Should be good for 350-390hp with good exhaust.Great for a budget to.Hard to beat vortecs if you are on a budget.Performer or Performer rpm intakes.Do you need to pass emissions? That changes it.650-750cfm but a 600 could work with a little horsepower loss.This is good for easy 13s.

 

Probably the cheapest, best flowing/$ heads you could put on the 350 are the ones currently on your 305 after basic porting and having 1.94" intake valves installed. The XE262 cam would work fine with those heads and your stock q-jet carb - get new valve springs to match the cam while working over the 305 heads. The truck engine most likely has dished pistons, so the smaller chambers of the 305 heads would raise compression to a reasonable level.

I would in no way recommend buying a Performer carb - bad move money- and performance-wise.

 

That's what i've done, and i'm a fan of it. (the heads that is.) I'm still tweaking the carb, but I know it'll go like crazy when i'm done.

 

so would these heads work out well? GM Performance Parts Vortec Cylinder Heads: NAL-12558060 - summitracing.com
then I will just match it up with a performer intake for vortec heads. does anyone know the flow nuymbers for ported 305 heads vs the vortec? Thanks for answering all my questions so far guys
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Can someone link me to that comp cam bc i cant find it on summit?

 

sitting bull ported 601 heads ( very similar to the 416's that you probably have), and claimed near vortec head flow #'s. I think that's optimistic, but the price is right
comp xe 262.... Extreme energy, small block chev, hydraulic flat tappet. It shouldn't be hard to find...

 

Competition Cams Xtreme Marine Camshafts: CCA-12-236-3 - summitracing.com it shouldnt matter if it for marine should it?

 

Well not really, but I don't know how you couldn't find this:

CCA-12-238-2

search on that p/n on summit. I don't know how to directly link summit things.

 

yea i saw that one but i was looking for the 262-268 that monte was talking about lol oh well, Thanks!

 

Hey Steve if you are looking to have some heads done up take the ones on your current motor and get them done up, I have a machinist that does the work on the side and for REAL cheap and it is super quality work. Let me know if you want to go that route, it will save you a few hundred and he lives not to far from me. Call my cell if you still have it from the cruise to the Fest and I will get ahold of him, otherwise pm me and i will call you.

BTW we need to hang out at Gene and Judes or Strats, some really nice cars out there!!

 

I got a question. I can get this intake, summit p.n WND-7530 . For about $100 but Im not sure how well that would match up with my setup. Running that cam and prolly some worked 083 heads. Im asking this bc the edelbrock performer says it operates from idle to 6000 rpm and the weiand intake operates at 2800-7200 rpms. So is that more for racing since the power band is higher up? I want my car to be somewhat streetable.

 

That intake would pretty much kill you on the street. Figuratively speaking, and maybe even literally if you were trying to make a left turn in front of a truck half a block away.

 

Ok thats what I figured lol thanks.

 

More questions. Is it nessecary to put new lifters on along with the cam or should I leave the stock ones on? And what springs should I use if i got 083 heads to handle my cam?

 

The 601s flow around 215/140 in stock form. I have personally done a set that is in the 250/170 range with stock 1.84/1.50" valves in them. The 601s also have the advantage of the closed chamber like a 492 head. David Vizard claims that the closed chamber style head is worth 20-30 ft/lbs at all rpms. The 601s chambers are a tiny 52-53cc stock.

 

Hrm should I go with 083 or 601 heads? Seems that if I had the 601 heads built up and done properly the higher compreesion would help right? What kind of work should I do to the heads if I decide on the 083's or 601's?

 

HOLY COW!!! 250CFM???? That's high end aftermarket range.

 

I will admit that I spent more hours than I care to have on them just to show a friend that they COULD perform. Grind, Flow, Epoxy, Grind, Flow, Epoxy.

 

Your 305 has 416 heads on it, most likely. The 601's typically were on truck & van engines, and reports vary on Canadian-delivered vehicles. The 416's are called 58cc chambers, actual will vary slightly, and have 1.84/1.50" valves. The ports are the same as 083s. So, the differences between 416's and 083's are chamber size and intake valve size, as well as the 083's have 72 degree bolt angles on the center two intake manifold mounts. If you don't rebuild the 350 with new pistons, then the smaller chambers of the 416's would help with compression with the large dish pistons they used in truck 350's. If you do rebuild with new pistons, choose them based on which heads you use - more dish with 416's, less to no dish with 083's.

What should you do to either head? Pin the rocker studs or have them pulled and machine for screw-in studs. Machine the valve guides for positive-type valve seals (helps control oil use better, and provides more clearance for more valve lift). Pocket port (bowl work, it's sometimes called) per Standard Abrasives "Do-It-Yourself Porting Guide". New valve springs and retainers (to eliminate those exhaust valve rotators). If you go with the 416's, have the intake valve seats machined for 1.94" valves, and buy new intake valves.

With either head, a good valve spring choice would be Comp 986's (Summit p/n CCA-986-16). Retainers would be either 740-16 or 747-16.

 

Ok thanks for all the info, it helped alot!

 

Great resource, I have used them before when I was messing around with a useless set of head to practice on....good stuff there.

 

Ok so i got some 416 heads and ive been doing some reading on porting them and whatnot. I searched the boards and i found out that you shouldnt use a dremel bc its not powerfulk enough and you should use a die grinder. On that standard abrasives site they say the grinder should eb operated at 10k rpms. I got the dremel 400 xpr and the operating range is 5k - 35 k rpms... so shouldnt that do the job or am i missing something?

 

it'll spin fast enough, but as soon as you touch the bit to something, it'll stall out the weenie little motor. Plus dremels only have 1/8" collets, so you have to use teeny tiny bits. It'll take you forever.
What's that little guy cost?

I paid $65 for a cheapo electric die grinder, then $20 in materials to make a speed controller. That's about what a dremel "kit" costs.

 

Ok, yea I got the dremel for some other stuff awhile ago and was just wornding if I didnt need to buy a die grander. I got a harbour fright by me so i cna get a grinder with accessories for cheap. Thanks

 

I've used pneumatic die grinders, but they go through the air something fierce. If you go by the air consumption numbers they list on the die grinder, figure on needing an air compressor with twice that CFM capacity. At least, that's what I've found.

An electric die grinder is a lot cheaper than an air compressor.

 

I got a monsterous air compressor bit I cant leave it on bc it always blows the circuit so i figured id be best of with an elctric for about $50. I got my comp cam and they say do not use the stock lifters "only use comp lifters" Is this one of those things that the manufacturer does to make more money or do i really nedd their $70 lifters? The ones I have now is great contidion, no signs of wear or nicks on them so id rather spend the 70 dollars on something i defninantly need

 

using *their* brand is just a way for them to make $.
most flat tappet lifters apparently are all made by the same company anyway. Depending on packaging, you get a different markup.

but if you're using a flat tappet cam, you absolutely cannot re-use your existing lifters. No way no how.
Buy new ones. Brand doesn't matter. I think summit's are an ok deal. Heck, you can get their cam and lifters and toss out the cam and still be ahead
then again, $70 for lifters isn't bad. I paid $90 recently.

 

Ok thanks! Im prolly gonna buy some new push rods any suggestions

 

I reused my stock ones. Roll 'em on a piece of glass to check if they're straight. If so, clean 'em and put 'em in.
For a mild build like yours, you can get stock replacements, or summit brand, or comp. The basic <$30 versions. You don't need any fancy schmancy $90 ones IMHO

 

HEY I HAVE 350 ENGINE I THINK THE ONE OF THE HEADS GOT CRACK IN THE VALE SPRINGS R NO GOOD I HAVE TPI WHAT HEADS R GOOD IN I NEED A GOOD CAM HELP ME ILIKE TO GET 400 HP RE BUILD MAYBE 383

 

sigh, thanks for coming out chief.