i have a 4 bolt block with a 2 piece and .060 over. line honed, decked, splayed bolts, billet mains. i'm trying to build a good solid motor that'll let me get in my first bracket runs reliably.

anyone have any preferences?

i've seen numerous stroker kits out there but am not sure what to go with. the eagle series cast seem to be reasonable but the strokerkits.com stuff as well as the track-pro seem a bit less expensive. granted the rods in the eagle kit as well as the crank are new and not reconditioned...

it seems that piecing together individual components will be much more costly in the long run.

the car will be a daily driver with only a 13mile commute so i don't mind going with a relatively hot cam. i've also been donated a 700cfm double pumper holly and a 750cfm regular holly. i will most likely start off running with vortech heads unless i can be patient enough to save for aluminum heads. also, my machine shop recommended that i have a great cooling system due to the size of the over bore. the machinist said aluminum heads would help greatly. here in florida, i will run a remote oil cooler, tranny cooler and aluminum radiator.

 

Summit Racing has some good 383 kits.

 

yeah i checked it out and prices seem very reasonable. have you used any of their engine kits?

 

I know a few people that have used the 383 kit from Speed Pro and they where very happy with it.

 

I thought a 350 with a .060 bore ened up being like a 395 or somthing like that.
not to take away from the thread just wanted to make sure you werent looking for the wrong kit

 

A "383 kit" puts a 3.75" stroke crank into a 350 block using 5.7" rods. Since most 350 blocks need a clean-up overbore since they are used, most such "kits" have 4.030" bore pistons in them, the resulting displacement is 383 cubic inches. Technically, a 4.060" bore by 3.75" stroke engine calculates out to 388.38567 cubic inches (assuming a rounded-off value of pi of 3.1415926535898). But, that's just a 383 with a .030" clean-up overbore, right?

FWIW, I'd have the cylinder walls of that block sonic checked before i would spend a dime on it. 4.030" is almost always safe, 4.060" is often safe, but GM production casting core shift is a well-known (and expensive) issue that can leave a 0.060" overbore with a wall that is too thin for proper strength.

 

ok not to get off topic any more or anything but i have a question, i have a 305 tpi bored .030 over and could i make that into a 383 because isnt a 305 350 383 and 400 all the same block? also if i could do that would it be possibe to use the tpi system with just new injectors and stuff?, please help me im very new at this but i am eager to learn and it is somthing that i am really considering on doing, thanks!!

 

Well, it is highjacking the thread, but the short answer is the 305 bore is 3.736", which at .060" over, the typical max for factory castings, it still only 3.796" bore. With a 3.75" crank, that's 339 cubic inches. A very expensive route to get fewer cubic inches than a standard, typical, factory 4.000" x 3.48" 350.

 

so i woul need to get a 350 if i was gona make it a 383?, sorry for stealing the thread i will make a new one if necessary

 

You need a block with a 4" bore. It can be 350, or if large journal, a 327.