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Swapping out blown 350 for rebuilt 355

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Old May 16, 2007 | 07:26 PM
  #1  
jcrules78's Avatar
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From: Maine
Car: 1988 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: TPI 5.7L (L98)
Transmission: Automatic w/OD (700R4)
Axle/Gears: Stock Axle 2.77 gears
Swapping out blown 350 for rebuilt 355

Hey guys, good news! My ill 88 IROC with blown 5.7 is getting a transplant. I have the guys at Marshall's Machine Shop in Skowhegan building me a 355 (350 bored .030 over). It will have a roller cam setup and all aftermarket parts. I have a super thick steel SFI oil pan going in, double roller timing chain and all sorts of other goodies. They think I should get an increase from stock 230 horse to somewhere around 275 or so. The engine comes with a 4 year 40,000 mile warranty. I will get more details as the project progresses, but as it seems now, a buddy of mine and I will be dropping the new engine in May 26th! I have to transfer my intake and TPI, valve covers, water pump, and all the sensors. I was just wondering what you guys think I should replace while I have the engine out. I was going to replace the water pump and the oil sending unit, as well as the O2 sensor. Anything else worth replacing while the engine is out? Is it worth paying 200 dollars for an Edelbrock water pump, or do I go OE? Oh and does anyone know if this year IROC has the two oil sending units, one in the pan and one in the back of the engine? Any info ASAP will help, I am planning on making a huge Summit order in the next few days so that all my stuff will get here on time for the engine swap. If there is a sticky post that deals with something similar to this, could you push me in that direction? Thanks guys!
JCRULZ
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Old May 16, 2007 | 10:25 PM
  #2  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Congrats on the progress. Hope it all goes in well.

I wouldn't bother with a special water pump on a 275 horse engine. Stock replacement should be fine.

Make sure the oil pan isn't some weird shape. You'll find yourself running special exhaust if you don't keep it stock-like.

I'd go with all new hoses and tune-up stuff (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter) while I was at it. And replace the exhaust manifolds with headers as well.

As far as I know, there was never an oil sender in the pan. Oil pressure sender/switch above the oil filter, but that's it.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #3  
jcrules78's Avatar
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Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
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From: Maine
Car: 1988 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: TPI 5.7L (L98)
Transmission: Automatic w/OD (700R4)
Axle/Gears: Stock Axle 2.77 gears
Re: Swapping out blown 350 for rebuilt 355

Thanks for the info Kid! Besides the basic tune up stuff as well as the oil pan, pump and the water pump, are there any sensors and other things that I should definitely replace while I have the chance? I was told the oil sending unit and the O2 sensor should be replaced. Anything else? This is my first engine swap and I haven't been able to find a decent list of what to replace while the block is out. I think I am going to hold on on the headers until I break my new engine in. I also want to save up for a good set, like perhaps some jet hot coated super comps from Hooker with that sweet Y-pipe they include! Once I get new headers, Y-pipe and a free-flowing cat, I will have a complete aftermarket exhaust. That should free some horses and ft-lbs!
JCRULZ
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Old May 17, 2007 | 10:05 PM
  #4  
five7kid's Avatar
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Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The oil sending unit and O2 sensor are a couple of good ones, along with the stuff I mentioned. Perhaps starter as well.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 12:53 AM
  #5  
lincolnpark773's Avatar
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Re: Swapping out blown 350 for rebuilt 355

Have the oil pickup tube welded to the pump so it doesn't shake off (make sure to remove the regulator spring while doing the welding so the heat doesn't ruin the spring). Clean any welding spatter out of the tube. Also don't forget to check (using clay) to make sure you have 3/8" to 1/2" clearance and no more between the pan (sump) and the oil pump pickup. Oh and most importantly, block off the oil filter by-pass on the oil filter spin on. This way when you break something (notice I'm saying WHEN) the schrapnel doesn't course through your expensive new motor and you don't find pieces of whatever broke in your main bearings and everywhere else! Use an overlength filter the racing filters supposedly don't have a bypass built into them like the stock ones do. I haven't cut one apart so I can't tell you.
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