five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I really would like to go to a manual tranny, and T56 is the only sane thing to consider (IMHO). Driving my daughter's Saturn 5-speed has really got the bug back in me, believe it or not. I'll probably go with the Spohn torque arm and T56 crossmember. Steeper rear gears like 3.73 or 4.10 are a given, 12-bolt would be preferred, ultimately.

So, options being considered:

Current ZZ4. Advantages: Already have it, the manual tranny would compliment it very well. Future enhancements might be RPM spreadbore intake (or squarebore RPM & 750 DP) and LT4 Hot Cam. Maybe even upgraded Vortecs. Or, really go nuts and stroke it to 383. Disadvantages: Lower fuel economy and slightly less driveability than EFI, some limits in power & driveabililty combined due to old-school heads.

LT1. Advantages: EFI, better heads, lighter heads (I'd probably go F-body or Vette engine for the aluminum heads), more performance potential. Fits under the stock 3rd gen hood better than the typical carb setup. Current exhaust would fit. Could stroke it to 383 or 396 easily enough. Disadvantages: More expensive, more work getting it in. I would have to soup it up a little in order to make the same power I'm making now (LT4 Hot Cam should do the trick, head porting would help even more).

LS1. Advantages: All the advantages of LT1 except exhaust wouldn't fit, even more power potential and lighter than the LT1. Should have as much power stock as current ZZ4 with better driveability and economy. Disadvantages: Current exhaust wouldn't fit (I'm sure I'd want headers). Even more expensive and harder to install than the LT1. More expensive to upgrade.


Or, save my nickels and dimes and get an '04-'06 GTO and give the Camaro to my son when he graduates from college. . .

Klortho

Oh that's going to be a hard decision, myself I'm particular to the LT1's, it actually wouldn't cost that much more to get the power you're making right now with the ZZ3, get one of the new XFI cams (the XFI292 is the one I'm going with), port the heads a little and should be in the mid 12's (a couple of guys here have that setup and run mid 12's at Bristol with 6-speeds 3.73 gears). LS1 would be even better, parts are coming down but yes more expensive to put in the car but nice power.

My LT1 ran low 9's on street tires spinning through 1st and 2nd in the 1/8th mile with the 3.70's in it and 6-speed, same motor in a 4th gen (about 400 lbs heavier) ran mid 8's on drag radials so a few of the guys I run around with are thinking I will probably be in the low 8's in the 1/8 (don't know what this would translate to in the 1/4).

Nice thing about the LT1 and LS1 with the 6-speeds, you could be making 450 at the wheels and still get around 24-25mpg with the manual.

LT1 285-300 at the flywheel depending on which version (I would say 285 to be safe stay away from the '93 models)

LS1 325-345 at the flywheel depending on which version (stay away from the 97-98 models)

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Knowing what to avoid helps a lot. I was looking at a '98 LS1/T56, in fact.

Klortho

The 98's were a breed of their own, a one year only motor. PCM is different, heads are different (actually have perimeter bolt valve covers). You could change the heads and go with a 99+ PCM but then again, why not find a motor that was complete out of a 99+ car.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I can't say that I'm all that well versed on LSx's. But, if I see similarly complete and condition '98 LS1/T56 vs. '99-'02 LS1/T56's, and the '98 is going for $1000-$2500 less, is that a reason to consider the '98?

Is the '98 PCM inferior? Is it still possible to program? Are the '98 heads poor flowing, prone to cracks/warping, or have some other physical inferiority? Those are the kinds of questions I would have.

Klortho

I don't think the PCM was inferior, just it was a one year deal. IIRC if you wanted to do the tuning yourself, HPtuners were for 98 then 99+ PCM's, the heads were not as good quality as the ones that were on the 99+ cars, didn't flow as much and again IIRC were prone to cracking around where the valve covers bolted up since they weren't centerbolt, cam was a little different as well. Main reason the 98's are going cheaper is....nobody wants them. Transmissions were the same from 98-2002 but there were slight differences in the motors.

'98 LS1 head



99+ LS1 head

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

As for installation difficulties... I would say LS1 is much easier than LT1. Yeah you need some conversion mounts and what not. But that stuff is relatively cheap and easy to install. The wiring is where the LS1 is better atleast in my opinion. You really only need to connect a few wires and it will run. The harness is really easy to work it.

And stock for stock you just arent goign to beat it for power, reliability, fuel economy and potential for easy power. Doesnt take much to boost the power of those motors. Some guys are getting almost 400 rwhp easily with just a cam and minor bolt ons. And STILL retaining great driveability and MPG.

They are getting cheap too. Yeah...Im alittle bias... But given the choices Ide either stick with the motor you have now, or go LS1. Skip the LT... no offense meant to those that dig that motor by the way...

J.

Klortho

I take no offence to it, if I had the cash when I did my LT swap 2 years ago, there would be an LS1 sitting in the GTA instead, but a low mile LS1 in 2005 was going for 5k with transmission. Now you can pick up an LS1 for about 2500-3k with a T56.

five7 let me know if you're interested, I have a couple of contacts around the area where I live that part out 4th gens and can get you a price on a setup if you're curious.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What I'm seeing is $3000-$3600 for '99-'02 LS1/T56, FOB. Don't include pedals/hydraulics from what I see. If the guys in your area can beat that, I'm interested in hearing what they've got.

I'm leaning toward the T56 with my current engine. But, I'll listen to suggestions. Since I don't currently have an electric fuel pump, if I go EFI I'll also have to set that up.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Current engine upgraded to "tuneable" EFI (maybe megasquirt type?) and displacement maxed out. If that means 383, then go for it... The LT4 hot cam is a great piece...

Don't you have the world s/r 305 heads? Don't those have more potential than vortecs?

Anyway, I think after the T56 the rear end is the next big thing. What do ya got back there?

Klortho

Ok, what I found out about the '98 models, PCM and wiring are different than the 99+, not inferior just totally different like the '93 LT1 wiring and PCM are different than the 94+. The '98 heads are fine, port and flow numbers are the same but are not center bolt and can't get pretty valve covers for them like the 99+. I'll make a phone call here in a bit and see what I can get for you.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I'd probably stay with carb if I keep the current engine. 383 is something I'm considering as well.

Yep, World 305 heads, ported by me. Haven't gotten them flowed, but they're probably close to stock Vortecs. They don't have as good of combustion chamber design as Vortecs. If I do the 383 and Vortec heads, I'd do the large port version of the Vortecs, or Fast Burns.

Currently just a 7.5 10-bolt. I've considered a 7.625 3-series 28-spline posi w/aftermarket axles & support cover, welded tubes. I have a disk rear in the garage, if I go with the T56, I'd do that stuff to it with 3.73 or 4.10 gears. But, 12-bolt would be the long-term goal.

Funny, my wife just called and asked about this "project". After I mentioned feelings of guilt over spending money on myself, she said, "If you're going to go through all the work doing it, you might as well start with good parts, right? Or, would you rather just get a different car?"

That kind of talk is dangerous around me. . .

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That's okay, I'm not much good at "pretty", anyway. . .

Appreciate that.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Those prices for an LS1/T56 combo dont sound too far off track. Also, most of what I see for sale, if its any good, comes with motor, trans, all accessories, driveshaft, pedals, hydraulics, and probably some extra crap you cant even use. Thats a good pull out... And since people know that the parts are more than likely going into a "hot-rod" they tend to include stuff like that. When you consider that yuo are getting a motor that will out perform the other choices while stock for the most part, the price is pretty darn good.

As for EFI and fuel pumps...no big deal. Just nab a 4th gen fuel tank. Done. It more or less bolts right in with a few little adjustments to the filler neck. Hook up the lines and you are set.

Haha...oh, and about the "dangerous wifey talk"... The reason I even own my 87 is due to my girl pushing me to take a test drive 5 years ago. Now look what she started... hahaha...

J.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

When I started adding up the cost of doing what I was talking about to my current engine, I was getting pretty close to $3k. So, I understand what you're talking about.

I know about the EFI fuel pump - just one more thing in the mix, but the 4th gen tank is a good idea. I'm sure it'll get a new pump while it's out (which I understand is a complete sending unit, not just the pump).

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I guess I can rule out the LT1. Either T56 w/current engine, or LS1.

I have wondered about a stroked LT1 in the '57, though. . .

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Somebody better give me a good reason not to jump on the '98 LS1/T56. Lowest price I've seen, supposedly only ~40k miles on engine/transmission.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

You can replace just the pump itself. Im not sure if you can replace it with a GM replacement...but you can get a racetronixs pump or walbro or something. You have to do some modifying in the fuel bucket...but its not bad.

You could easily get away with just dropping in a 4th gen plastic tank and be done with it. Im still running the stock 99 fuel pump in my set up...and its not exactly stock anymore. They work pretty good. Install a hotwire kit and you're set.


Justin

Oh...and dont ask me for any good reasons NOT to get a cheap LS1/T56 set up...because I dont have any. haha. Im always looking for a good deal. My lifted cherokee is screaming for an LS1 swap.

Klortho

I would say jump on it at that price. When I get the phone call back, I'll find out if he has a 99+ harness and PCM which would be a good move to make.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It doesn't include pedals or hydraulics, so I would still need to get those.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Those are easy to find though. Places like Hawks carries them Im pretty sure. Or you can go with used stuff. I personally would atleast use new hydraulics...the master cylinder at the very least.

Klortho: Something else changes on the motor doesnt it?? Is it the knock sensors? I thought I remembered the 98 having something different hardware wise...not just harness and PCM. Could be wrong though. Cool of you to hook him up too by the way...

J.

Klortho

Ok, this is going to be pretty long, but here we go (these are motor changes only, I edited out the other 4th gen info)

1998 F-body

1. Had different casting heads which had perimeter bolts and valve covers.
2. Ignition coils were mounted to the valve covers one at a time.
4. 98's do have an oil life monitor, they just don't tell you anything when its time for a change. You can find it in Auto-Tap
11. 1998-1999 automatic transmission LS1s could be started in 1st gear even with the shifter in 2nd. Starting 2000, if you put the shifter in 2, it would start off in 2, even from a stop.
12. 1998-1999 LS1 cars had a smaller throttle body cam, which caused the throttle to open to WOT (wide open throttle) faster than 2000+ cars
13. 1998 cars had 28 lb fuel injectors from the factory
14. 1998-2000 cars had a larger cam than the 01-02 cars
15. 1998-1999 cars had more restrictive exhaust manifolds
16. 1998-2000 cars had an LS1 intake with EGR
18. 1998 only LS1 blocks had a much smaller cylinder sleeve that only tolerated a .005" hone
19. Last year F-body to use the old 15.5 gallon steel fuel tank.
21. Only year LS1 F-body to not contain the famous GM black box used in the event of an accident to record up to 5 seconds of pre-crash data
22. 1998 only cars had a different PCV system with the PCV valve located above the passenger side valve cover
23. 1998 most cars did not have an idle adjustment screw on the throttle body. Some 98 cars do have the idle throttle stop set screws.
24. 1998 cars have a completely different PCM from 99+ cars
25. A production shortage of F-body cams caused the use of a C5 cam to be installed in F-body LS1s for a very short time
26. 97-98 LS1's used a paper water pump gasket. The only gasket that isn't reuseable

1999 F-Body

1. 1999-2000 cars switched to 26 lb fuel injectors
2. Cylinder heads and valve covers redesigned to have center bolts instead of perimeter bolts. Other than that, the heads were the same.
3. Redesigned cylinder sleeves that allowed for a small bore, up from .005" in 1998 models.
5. 1999 cars continued the LS1 intake with EGR provisions
6. 1999 cars continued more restrictive exhaust manifolds and larger cam
13. Water temp gauge was redesigned to work basically as a dummy gauge and only show an overheat condition.
15. 1999-02 cars had a different PCV system with the valve located to the side of the intake manifold

2000 F-Body

1. Redesigned exhaust manifolds for new emissions standard actually flowed better and created a little more HP.
2. 2000 continued use of LS1 Intake, EGR, smaller cam, and 26 lb fuel injectors

2001 F-Body

1. A small percentage of 2001 and 2002 LS1s actually had LS6 blocks which had a different part number and a darker metal cast
2. Starting 2001, all LS1s came with an LS6 intake manifold without an EGR system
3. Advertised HP output was changed from 305 to 310 on base LS1s and from 320 to 325 on WS6s and SSs
4. 2001-02 cars have a smaller cam from the Vortec truck engines to increase low end torque
5. 2001-02 cars had 28 lb fuel injectors like the 98 cars (albeit different part numbers)
8. Manual transmission cars all came with the Z06 clutch

2002 F-Body

2. 2002 LS1 head gaskets redesigned. The new ones are a pressed metal, as opposed to the graphite ones and are no longer specific to the side of the car theyre installed on
3. 2002 cars continued with the LS6 intake, 28 lb fuel inectors and smaller truck cam
4. 2002 continued the use of an LS6 block in some LS1 F-bodies
6. Manual transmission cars continued use of the Z06 clutch

HP/TQ Ratings (factory)

F-body 98 – 99 305 335

00 320 345

01 – 02 325 350

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Looks like the main thing is the block that has cylinders that can only be taken out a little bit. Shouldn't be an issue with a low-miles engine.

I'll let you know in a bit how it comes down.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Well, that one got away. Sold for $3200.

Guess I'll keep looking. The T56-only is still an option.

Klortho

Well, he doesn't have an LS1's but does have a 6-speed wiring, pedals and hydraulics if needed

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What would you offer for a 38k miles 2000 Camaro LS1/T56 w/harness/PCM/accessories, no pedals/hydraulics?

Klortho

I would start out at about 3k, no more than 4k.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

looks like I got here a little late but you got to the bottom line and made it through alot of the bull. bassically latest and greatest is why the prices go up. looks like the last few posts got you the correct info

MrDude_1

just like how you realise the T56 is the only sane manual trans to go with for a street car....

i feel that the genIII+ motors are the only sane engines to go with for a street car.

everything about the swap in a thirdgen is a bolt-in, and its as easy or as complex as you want to make it.

and its not more expensive to work on, for the power. compare a flat tappet SBC to a LS1 cam, and yea.. it costs more.. compare a comp roller cam for the SBC to a LS1 cam, and you realise that they cost the same..... but only the LS1 is going to put 400 at the rear wheels and still give you 20/30 MPG city/hwy...

you pay 2k for 300 CFM SBC heads.. CNC ported LS1 heads are $700 new.



btw, the LS1 is becoming the 305 of the new smallblock world.. like in SBC land, you want the blocks with the 4" or larger bore... this is me projecting the future here, but the new wideport heads, that can only fit on a 4" or larger bore, are the future of the performance small block... they flow over 300 unported. they flow 380 to 400+ depending on who ports them and how far you want to go... there are guys with pumpgas motors that make 700+ with them naturally aspriated.. and they're OEM head castings.

beyond that, they are litterally the easiest v8 motor to work on that ive ever seen... almost every gasket is reusable.. there is no RTV when working on them... no distributor to set. the intake pops on and off with 8 bolts, and seals with O rings.. every tolerance is so tight that things fit better then anything fits a SBC. and because of all of the high HP noobs and the internet, you can lookup things that you just cant find out online with a SBC...

its a whole new world... once you go in, you'll never want to go back.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

How about a 2000 with 54k miles?

Never mind, I already bought it. Includes hydraulics, and some things programmed out of the PCM (VATS, rear O2, fuel pump, A.I.R. pump, etc.).

I'm sure a bigger cam has to go in before it goes in the car. And, I'm sure a clutch upgrade makes more sense while it's on the ground. Headers, or hook up these "better" exhaust manifolds? Hawks or Spohn conversion parts? Looks like I'm going to have some fun with things like speedo (mechanical) and tach.

What have I gotten myself into?

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Better do something with your rear end or it's gonna do something all by itself!!

Try to pick up all the little pieces after the incident; you don't want some kid to get hurt!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

For the time being, support cover, aftermarket axles & gears, welded tubes. Until the 12-bolt can be obtained (want to keep it all-GM, so no 9-inch).

Today at the track a 4th gen was sitting 40 feet from the start line. I didn't see what happened, but they jacked up the rear end and pushed him back. No liquid or pieces on the ground, must have stripped off teeth - whatever it was, the rear wheels wouldn't move.

Klortho

Wheel hop is murder on the 10 bolts, the majority of the rears that get broke in the 4th gen shred the spider gears. There's a conversion box for the speedo and tach needs a conversion box as well....unless you can find a 4 cyl tach. All you will really need are the mounts and crossmember, Hawks are Spohn pieces IIRC so either will be fine. I have the Spohn crossmember and it works great, a little low but nothing a grinder couldn't fix. Ditch the LS1 intake and get an LS6 intake if you're going to do a cam swap as well and as for clutch setups, alot of guys around locally are running the LS7 clutch and love it.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

For the rear, forgot to mention boxed LCA's with poly bushings, LCA relocation brackets. Spohn torque arm high on the list as well. There are some interesting suspension ideas out there, one in particular that eliminates the torque arm entirely. About $1400, would make exhaust a whole lot easier, appears to really plant the power.

Hawks' site said using the Spohn crossmember with their exhaust required modifying the crossmember, no mod required with theirs. Hence the confusion.

I saw the speedo and tach boxes. Hadn't heard about the 4 cyl tach idea, I'll have to look into that.

Klortho

I just used the stock 3rd gen exhaust with the LT1 but then again, this motor is different. I bet what they're saying about modifying the crossmember is for their LT headers, if you stick with the stock manifolds you should be fine with the Spohn piece the 3" i-pipe I have on mine clears with no problems. Apparently the LS1 uses a 4cyl tach signal so if you can find a 4cyl Camaro tach swap it out and should work, it was just something off the top of my head.

When I destroy the 9 bolt in the GTA I'll probably end up putting an 8.8 from a Mustang in the GTA, strong as a 12 bolt, gears are cheaper and I can get axles with chevy bolt patterns for it as well. I need to do LCA brackets and rebush the control arms since I have a poly mount on my torque arm now.

MrDude_1

go buy HPtuners or EFI live.. yes, its worth the money, provided you are willing to learn how to use it.


dont listen to anyone telling you to buy any kind of converter box... the great thing about GM PCM or ECMs is we have them unlocked.

you want a 8cyl tach signal.. go type two numbers in(the high pulse per rev, and low pulse per rev), and you can have it.
want a V6 signal? no problem.
want 4cy, oddfire 5cyl, 12cyl signals? just type it in and flash it in 30 seconds.


the only problem you'll have that requires a "magic box" is your mechanical speedo.
other then that, everything hooks up like any other engine (oil pressure to oil pressure sending unit, tach to tach output, gauge to gauge sending unit, etc)

the VATS, CAGS, EGR, AIR, etc, can easily be tuned out with HPtuners.. you dont need the MAF either... so instead of necking down your air intake to 3.5 for it, you can just make a straight 4" intake, and tune the MAF out (unless you need to pass an ODBII emissions inspection)

hawks takes a sphon crossmember, and slots the hole back a half inch.. this is because the engine is set back more...other then that, its a stock spohn crossmember
because of this, theres no room for an exhaust.. hawks solution is to kick it out and around and make this really crappy looking/flowing setup... yea it bolts on, but ive seen the quality and work you like to do.... dont bother with the spohn crossmember or the hawks Ypipe.
the headers are great.. but run a "double hump" crossmember so you can keep the exhaust tucked, and run it straight. i have confidence you'll do better working that out on your own then wasting your money on the hawks solution.


while the clutch hydraulics are out, lookup something called the "drill mod" on LS1 tech.. theres a restrictor in the clutch line... so when you do two quick shifts (think 1-2 then 2-3) the second shift doesnt fully release the clutch, and you smoke it... the drill mod is drilling out one of the restrictors in the line..
alternately, you can replace the line with an -3AN line.. benifit is no restriction.. negitive is you lose the quick disconnect.

one of the best things i have ever bought is a remote bleeder line for this clutch.. BUY ONE.. trust me.. if you do it the first time, you wont even realise the amazing hasslie you have saved.. lol. all it is, is a line that goes in the bleeder port on the slave cyl.. then the end of the line has a brake bleeder on it.. the cooler ones come with a speed bleeder, but really, it doesnt matter as you can submerge the end of the line in a jar of brake fluid if you want.
the key is, to not have to mess with the stock clutch bleeding setup.. it sucks.
you may want a mcleod adjustable master cyl.. but thats a luxury thing.. it can be an upgrade later.


umm, what else...

poly motor mounts are a bitch to fit in the clamshells of these motors, but you're likely to tear up the stockers when you start hitting the dragstrip with a manual..... (strangely, the auto cars, even with monster stalls, seem to last forever on the stockers)
if you want to run a strut tower brace, you can now go straight across from tower to tower.. lol.

on the fuel system, you have several options... however, you DONT have to swap the rails out to a return style one. either run a regulator up front, with one line to the rail, or run a corvette filter/regulator at the rear of the car, and only run one line up to the front... either way, you dont need the fuel rail swap alot of guys think you need..
umm..

if you plan on AC, the brackets that retain the 3rdgen AC suck... you're better off running the LS1 compressor, and having custom lines made.

if you want a tubular Kmember, the profab/PA racing LS1 one sucks. their jig is off for the motor mounts.. spohns fits fine.. if you can ever get one... the conversion adapters work great, except you need to notch the Kmember, and the oil pan sump is CLOSE to the K...

umm.. god, i wish i could just think to tell ya all the tips ive learned over the last couple years... it adds up to alot... lol.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Vette and Camaro/Firebird the same thing?

I haven't kept up with clutch tech, but always heard good things about Centerforce. Is this http://www.sdparts.com/product/SDLS7...ClutchKit.aspx the LS7 clutch you were talking about?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Are you thinking of someone else? I feel like a hack, compared to what I see guys do around here. Actually, I know I'm a hack.
I'm sure I'll be tapping a lot of brains around here. will be very active. I do appreciate the responses I've gotten so far.

Klortho

Vette and F-body I believe are the same, but to be safe, get an f-body one, it'll be cheaper because it didn't come off of a "Corvette"

As for the LS7 clutch, I believe they are running just a stock LS7 clutch setup.

MrDude_1

the LS6 intake came on the camaro/firebird in 01 and 02... 98-00 had the LS1 intake.

in 01 onward, they found it was cheaper to just make the LS6 intake assembly, and drop it on everything...


centerforce SUCKS for LS1s... compartitivly speakign of course..
its not that its bad, its that there are alot of better clutches out there in the same price range.

the LS7 clutch is a GM OEM clutch..... that came on the C6 Z06.. aka the LS7 motor


maybe. but i'll give you the benifit of the doubt.. LOL.

search on LS1tech in the conversions/hybrid section... theres TONS of info there.
plus since your drivetrain is IDENTICAL to the fbodies.. the rest of the forum is full of good comparisions/advice... really the only diff between your car and theirs, is the front suspension/brakes.... the drivetrain and rear suspension will be identical.

doesnt matter, as long as its an LS6.

be careful, the non-ls6 ones from vettes look almost identical. you cant just go off of the EGR port, because vettes never had EGR, even when they had LS1 intakes....


yup, the OEM setup.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I don't know why this isn't selling like hotcakes http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55 (works best in IE).

Eliminates the torque arm and need for LCA relocation brackets, should free up a whole bunch of space for exhaust. Slightly more expensive than the Spohn torque arm, but should do the job much, much better. Would work best with upgraded panhard bar as well, I'm sure.

They only list them for 4th gens, but as you stated, same-o, same-o between them & us back there.

Oh, do you need the LS7 flywheel in order to use the LS7 clutch?

MrDude_1

i think you need an LS2 flywheel or something like that... to be honest, check LS1tech.. i dont run an LS7 clutch.

im currently running a mcleod carbon/kevlar, and will soon stepup to a slipper twindisc clutch to go with my faceplated tranny... (shhh.. lol)
basicly, i'll have more $$$ in the trans and clutch then alot of people have in their motors here.. BUT, i can just yank it into the next gear... i giggle just thinking about it... w00t!!



anyway, as for thoes ladderbar things... ummm. i donno about them. ive NEVER seen them before.. they look like an upgrade over the lakewood axle clamp crap, but i really dont care for the concept.
i cant say theres a ton of room under there, but run a shorty TQ arm to a chassis mount, and theres plenty of room for exhaust on the passenger side of the tunnel.... if it was me, id stick with a sliding torque arm linkage. its good well into the 7s, as well as totally streetable.. and you cant ask for more then that.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Full rear set-up with coil-overs: http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...ghlight=wright

How it works in a "mild" set-up: http://www.fastchip.com/Ed-995.wmv

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

A couple of more questions:

I currently have a carb set-up, so my throttle cable will be too short. The engine is coming out of a car with traction control, so that cable won't work - I assume the TB is the same, though, correct? Do I need an LS1 cable, or will 3rd gen TPI work?

As for intakes, I see some LS2 available. Same as LS6? One available mentions "ported" - does that make any sense?