I have very little experience wrenching on cars. I took apart my TPI setup to polish it last summer, and that went well ... done a few free mods ... all went well ... installed new end links in my sway bar ... also went well ... fixed my headlight motor recently ... etc.

Anyway, I have a friend with a cherry picker and I have a good deal of time in the evenings. Is it feasible for me to tackle an engine swap, or should I just bite the bullet and take the car to a mechanic for the swap? I really like the idea of doing it myself so I can paint the engine bay while the motor is out, and I think there would be nothing more rewarding than pulling/dropping in my own motor.

 

Its not really difficult to do, but can be complicated because of all the wiring and hoses you have to deal with. It can be time consuming as well (though that doesnt sound like its an issue).

Speaking from experience, as I've done it at least 4 times in 3 different 3rdgens that I can remember, this is what I suggest doing to make life easy for yourself when it comes time to put it back in:

- Digital Camera - take pictures of EVERYTHING before you start taking things apart, especially wiring harnesses and hoses. It will help you remember how things were routed, etc.

- Masking Tape pt.1 - use this to make a 'flag' on any wire or hose you disconnect and write on it whatever you need to so you remember where it goes later. It will save you ALOT of time and trouble later.

- Masking Tape pt.2 - use the tape also on all the bolts you take out. Tape together all the bolts from a given part (ie. all the exhaust manifold bolts) and mark them so you know what they are for (ex - "exhaust manifold, right side").

Good luck!

 

Do I need to take the nose off to get the cherry picker to clear?

And is there anything really important I need to know about any disconnects? Like do I have to do anything to evacuate the AC?

Is it better to put the car on jack stands to get underneath it for anything (like unbolting the tranny from the drive shaft or unbolting the motor from the mounts?) Will the motor & tranny pull together easier if the car has some elevation?

And can I transfer over everything from my 305 to this motor:
http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/...20108550238.f6
excluding ECM, knock sensor, injectors, etc.?

Will I need a shift kit for the 700r4?

Is my 2.73 drum rear end still OK with this?

 

Most cherry pickers are too short to pull the engine and tranny from our cars. If you pull the engine only, then it will reach (but you'll have to support the transmission while the engine is out). Or, you can put the cherry picker on the side.

Don't disconnect the AC. Just unbolt the compressor from the engine and set it to the side while the engine is out.

Like Adam said, take pictures and mark everything.

My two brothers got a 350 from that outfit - one used the one you linked, the other a TBI engine. Both are happy with them. Everything will bolt to the engine, and you will need to transfer tin and rear main seal adapter. You will need a harmonic damper puller and installer, which can be rented/borrowed from parts stores such as Autozone. The engine comes with all the gaskets and seals you will need.

Your car is a '92 (if this is the car in your user info), which is a speed density system, which is sensitive to changes such as displacement. You will need 350 injectors, knock sensor, and PROM for the computer. If your car is the single cat type, the exhaust will choke a 350 (it even chokes the poor 305). If it's dual cat, it's the same as the 350 system.

You don't necessarily need a "shift kit", but improvements to the transmission couldn't hurt. Rear ends didn't change 305 vs. 350 with regard to strength, although gear ratios were typically more performance-oriented with 350's.

I don't know if I'd trust this to a for-profit shop. The chances of them understanding the nuances of this swap are slim.

 

Just what I wanted to hear. I was thinking the same thing ... great advice.

Question about pulling the motor & tranny ... I need new seals in the tranny because it has a slow ATF drip. Can I do that without pulling the tranny? I thought it would be easier to just pull them both together. Or should I pull the motor and then pull the tranny separately?

Yes, it is the car in my sig, and it is a single cat. Could I just replace that with a hi-flo cat to keep from choking it? I plan on putting Hooker 2055s on the 350 before install.

 

The '92 305 single cat exhaust is 2-1/4". Just a high flow cat won't fix the problem. If you get 2055HKR's, they're designed for '86-'90 TPI single cat with a 3" inlet, so if you get the cat and cat-back for that application, you'll be fine.

You can fix the tranny leaks in the car except for the front pump seal. You can get to that with the engine out, tranny in car. Personally, the hassle getting to the bell housing bolts makes pulling the tranny with the engine worth it.

 

do it yourself and take your time, i'm doin my first engine build and motor swap currently but i've dont alot of other work to the car previously so i have an idea of what i'm doing in the engine bay.

Like said, tape/label everything and you should be fine.

I was able to pull my motor from the front with my picker but it was very close. I didnt pull the trans with it tho. you can leave the trans in the car and just take of the converter bolts from the flexplate

 

What about the prom change issue? I don't want to get into DIY proming. I just want to pick one up and plug it in. Is that the norm?

 

Just get one for an L98 (350 TPI) and you should be fine.

 

yep run a 91-92 L98 chip

 

Can you find a used prom or is it best to get a new one? I think the new ones are around $325 though!!

Oh, and does anybody have a better suggestion for headers other than the Hooker 2055s? They seem to be the best bang for the buck, but I don't know too much about any others.

 

the only other better opton would be SLP 1 3/4's that arent made anymore, or you can get Dyno Don's headers, basically a version of the SLP's

 

Used would be fine. Its not a 'wear item', so its ok to go used.