My 383 should be ready to fire pretty soon. its the eagle balanced kit with a voodoo cam http://store.summitracing.com/partde...K&autoview=sku, and ported and polished 416's. I know that the rpms are supposed to come up pretty quikly right away and then vary the rpm's, but for how long, and how high?

Also during the first 500 miles what should my driving be like?
I'm trying to make sure than I am treating this engine the absolute best i can during this important period of time so it can reach its peak potential.

 

is this gonna be a street motor or race motor or street/strip weekend fun car that youwill get on it alot on the street

Here's how i broke in my 383. i think i have like 200-250 miles on it total so far if that and i already made a few 1/4 mile passes and loads of street WOT passes to get the tune down

I have a roller cam so you will do differently on cam break in. I got the motor fired up, set base timing and let it warm up to opperating temps to check for leaks. Sure as hell i had some so i had to fix an oil leak. once i got the car running, i took it for a short drive around the block to check for driveability problems and more leaks.

all was good. eventually got to take it on a 20 mile drive. I varied the rpms on the drive. I followed this procedure basically
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...=Custom&ID=636

i did a few first gear light accelerations down the road to 20-30mph and let it coast back down in gear. Did a few of them. then went to 40-50 medium acceleration in second and let it coast down in gear. Did a few of these. I drove it normally for alittle bit, about 4 miles before i hit highway and did some 50-60 or 60-70 medium accelerations in 3rd gear let its engine slow itself down to 40-45. did a few of those. Then did some hard 2nd gear pulls from 40-50, roughly 75%-80% throttle. Did a few of those pulls.

Next i drove it around for 20 miles or so normally. Didi some datalogging to make sure mytune was close and it was.

That was the end of that day. I probly drove it another good 25 miles normally before i started doing some quick WOT bursts in second gear and letting it coast down in gear. ONLY brought it up to 5000-5500 rpms when the motor was good to 6500. Did a few runs like that and then changed the oil. STill base valvoline 10w-30 regular oil at this time. Got the WOT tune close and drove the car normally for 100 miles or so. I then started getting on it hard to 6000-6500 working on getting the tune down. once it was close enough air fuel ratio/timing wise, i put in Mobil 1 synthetic and i took it to the race track

My car is limited street and mostly fun car. I wanted to do a quick race style motor break in and everyone i talked to recommend running the motor fairly hard at first to set rings in fast/quickly. its worked for me. many will aggree. I'd follow that GM crate motor startup/breakin procedure and drive normal for the first 300-500 miles but occassionally give it some WOT blasts...not too long,not too much RPM but definately give it some. It will break in before you know it


flat tappet cam i hear you want to run it between 2000-2500 rpms for 20-30 min to break in cam/lifters. After that shut off and change oil immediately. Then you can start the breakin driving procedure

 

i will be driving it daily but will also be getting on it often, and taking it to the strip.

wow, i was expecting a lot more miles before taking it to the track.
wat rpm's would you say i should be able to my motor up to once its broken in? i will prolly only bring it to 4500 or so when doing loads.
also i was told to wait like 3 oil changes till i ran synthetic, around 3000 miles. what do you think about that?

that must be nice to have your car ut and on the strip though, i know i cant wait. what did you run? how much hp are you running?

 

Your's is a hydraulic flat tappet, not the same as a roller motor--totally different breakin procedures for each of them. The flat tappets need special oil with zinc in it. do a search here for "Flat tappet break in" and you'll find what you're looking for.

 

Yeah you have to break in that flat tappet alot differently at first but i believe after you do the cam break in, you'll be fine to drive it around. if your worried about it, do some more mileage on the motor before giving it hell and before adding synthetic

new motors in vettes/vipers/etc use mobil 1 from the factory so i am not sure theyget broken in on regular or not, but its advised to use regular oil on first break in miles. Definately on flat tappets


my motor went 11.67 at 116 so far. hope to improve tonight. Thats good for 400whp or so.

your motor, i dont recall what cam/heads/intake you were using so i cant guess on power/etc

 

its a hydraulic flat tappet, the guy who built the motor ended up putting diesel oil into it because apparently they are taking out zinc from alot of all the regular oils. but diesel oil still has it. we broke in the cam the other day, but now it has vibrations and nobody can figure out why since i have all the right parts.

 

I felt like a wh0re in church breaking in my flat tappett cam. I called Tony Mano at AFR and he gave me detailed instructions on the proper way to break in. Everything worked out okay and it runs great. I do plan to switch to roller next season though because of the horror of a future flat lobe and the extra 25-30 HP of Hydro roller.

On the other note, After the motor was all broken in and then dyno'd I took it out and beat the snot out of it for about 10 minutes.

 

how much more is a hydraulic roller setup?

 

You should be able to pick a roller motor up from a junkyard for around $250-$400.00. If you search well you might find one that still has the heads and intake on it. If that's the case it also probably still has the lifters, cam and rods. They might still be good too, just depends on how the motor was beat on. Then all you need is the machine work to clean it up and check it. IF it's good or not, no way to know till you buy it and check it...but your chances are the same as if you got an older flat-tappet motor that it's good. Getting a long block alone will save you $250 in aftermarket or replacement lifters as they're reusable if they're not damaged. Retrofitting a roller set up into an older flat-tappet motor costs $$....retrofit roller lifters are like $450 by themselves.

 

yeah to do a roller setup its best to have a roller block. that way you can get 99 dollar LS7 lifters which are awesome, and run regular cams which arent super expensive. retrofit stuff is expensive

 

wow, sounds like prices can get up there. what is the physical difference between the two blocks? what about the lifters and cam?

 

the lifter valley is setup for roller lifters and the retaining plate setup that is needed to get it to work. There is a 8 legged spider looking plate that holds lifter retainer plates to the top of the lifter bores. Keeps the rollers from spinning.

roller lifter is like a regular lifter except the bottom has a roller disk on the bottom.

 

i just looked at some pics. i can see where the extra hp comes from. are those wheels on bearings though? i can only imagine how fast they must be spinning...

and about my car, i had to order a flywheel and flexplate b/c summit sent me an externally balanced kit instead of internally. found that out when we started the motor. but should be together within a week.