I have a 1983 camaro with a tired 305. I have searched this site assuming that someone else had made the same swap, but none of the forums i came across had the info I needed. So, i am getting a rebuilt 350 for my car, along with a fresh 700R4. I am curious as to what is the easiest way to do the swap? should I pull the motor/tranny out together in my car? or seperate them and drop the trans and pull the motor?
--The

 

I have a 1983 camaro with a tired 305. I have searched this site assuming that someone else had made the same swap, but none of the forums i came across had the info I needed. So, i am getting a rebuilt 350 for my car, along with a fresh 700R4. I am curious as to what is the easiest way to do the swap? should I pull the motor/tranny out together in my car? or seperate them and drop the trans and pull the motor?
--The 305 has an eldebrock intake and carb setup that I am hoping to keep. Are they compatable? also the motor mounts, a/c, water pump, power steering, and starter, will it all bolt up? Sorry if these questions sound dumb, but even though I have a good idea to the answers, I just want to be sure before I start pulling parts. Thanks!

 

I think the tools you have to use will dictate which way is easier. I've done it both together and separate. I think I like pulling them separate more because you don't have to worry about putting the motor/trans on a big angle to get them out. At the same time, if pulled separate you have to be able to lift the motor out and have room under the car or jacks afterwards to get the trans out from under the car.

 

I've done two swaps and I prefer putting them in together because I always have trouble mating the trans to the engine in the car, much easier for a dope like me outside the car.

 

yeah ive pulled out and put in sbcs into third gens at leas 7 times now i leave the trans and engine together its easier for me. fast82z is right on the money though it really depends on the tools and everthing at hand..

 

Installing headers too? If just using the iron manifolds - which side of the block is the dipstick boss on, on the 350 block? Is it a pre-1980 block? If its on the drivers side, you may have a hard time with it. The two ways to make it work are to either switch to a set of headers (a good idea anyway), or to take the sheetmetal 'shield' off the drivers side iron manifold and pinch the dipstick tube between the manifold and head. It leaves just enough room when pinched to get the 'stick in and out.

 

well i was actually curious about that. I have headers, eldebrock intake,and and eldebrock carb that i was wondering if they would bolt up to the 350? How bout the A/C, power steering, and alternator? How about the starter? I am taking the old engine and transmission both out and installing a new set (the 350 and 700R4)...so I was wondering what all wouldnt bolt up? will i need new motor mounts? is is a good idea to get them anyways? is there any thing else that i am overlooking that is important to this swap? I heard since the new 700R4 im putting in has an electic hookup for speedo, I will have to buy something for my old cable driven speedo to work...how would i go about that, just buy an electric speedo to put in place of the old one? thaks for all the replies...and again i apologize if any of these questions sound dumb, i just dont want to overlook anything...thanks guys!

 

The intake, headers, carb and acc will all bolt up provided the heads on the new motor arent vortec. If they are you will have to modify the holes on the center two bolt holes of the intake for it to work I believe. It might have to be modified for all post 86 heads or something but the vortec I am pretty sure about. That starter will only work if the new motor has the same size flexplate as the old motor. I would replace the motor mounts and trans mounts, that what I did in my swap. Also it was alot easier to bolt up the headers before I droped the motor all the way down, especialy on the driver side. The water pump will bolt up but they are pretty cheap and it might be a good idea to just replace it for peace of mind.

Was the carbed set up on the old motor already? I ask because you info says both TPI and carbed. There is a good tech article on this site on how to convert to carb if you still need to.

 

Will all bolt up fine.

AC and PS - yes. Starter - depends what year the 350 block is, you may have to drill one new starter bolt hole.

Motor mounts will be the same, just take em off your 305 and bolt em to the 350. Not sure on the speedo cable issue, never dealt with that myself.

 

both the carb and intake were on the original 305. Good to hear that this is such a painless swap. Would you still recommend changing the motor mounts? and what rear end would you recommend? Im going for gas mileage...but at the same time i dont want it to durasticly effect performance. i will be replacing the water pump for sure, along with flushing all the fluids out of the radiator and new motor. is buying a shift kit really worth it? any suggestions are appreciated! thanks everyone!

 

I would still change the mounts if you don't know when they were changed last. The rear gear you need will depend on a lot more info than you have provided like, intended use and cam used. Assuming stock sized cam on near it and not built to race than a 3.23 gear should be fine.

 

its just going to be a stock cam...no mods...just the intake, carb, and headers. Intended use will be remaining an everyday driver, but also a car i wouldnt be embarassed to run down the strip! I love fast cars...but these days, driving fast isnt cheap! i definatly need something different then what i have now. my car runs between 1900 and 2000 RPMS just cruising 55 to 60 for some reason, i suspect a faulty overdrive gear in the original 700r4(not to mention it slips, leading to the reason i decided to buy a rebuilt one when i came across one for cheap).

 

any last minute advice before I start the swap?

 

I would keep the stock carb and distributor before I would use a free Edelbrock carb.

Wait, that's what I did do. . .

Drive it every day, and win with it at the strip.

If I had an Edelbrock carb, it would be on ebay or craigslist before I turned a bolt.

 

why would you rather have stock then eldebrock? thats the first ive ever heard someone say that... But thats the way it came with the 305 so thats the same carb and intake im putting on the 350...no since spending money to down grade.

 

five7Kid just hates edelbrock for some reason. He feels the same way about Hooker 2460 headers too. >_>

The edelbrock carb will be fine. There's no point in buying something else when you already have the edelbrock. If you're going to change your fuel delivery, spend the time and money and go to TPI. Definitely buy new motor mounts. The old ones are most likely broken. And don't buy poly motor mounts. All they do is rattle the **** out of you on the way to work. Accessories should go over fine as long as the new motor is pre '87.

Hail to the 83 z28s!

 

It's not for "some reason", it's for a lot of reasons. The Edelbrock Performer carbs are 45+ year old technology made shiny (older than the q-jet). They haven't done anything to make them better. The Thunder series is slightly better because you can adjust the secondary air valve, but you can do that with any q-jet. The CC q-jet is very capable (even a thread with that title in the Carburetor forum - and, no, I didn't start it), and the Performer is a downgrade, pure and simple. There's no point in buying something else when you already have the best street performance out there, the CC q-jet.

Hooker 2460HKR headers is another topic altogether. Suffice it to say they are cheap to buy but expensive to get in the car.

Engine mounts in our cars don't tend to break, but the factory rubber ones do sag. Poly inserts are a very good way to end the sagging without rattling the car.

Accessories don't matter based on year, unless the heads are 1968 or older. Not likely, but possible, I suppose.

 

so far the whole swap including trans has been under $500.