masterhacker198

alright so here's the deal, im ordering one of these engines, I haven't decided which yet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BP3830CTC/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BP3550CTC1/

next spring at some point, and im going to pull the tpi 305 out of my camaro, I was wondering about reusing some parts off the 305 I wanted to swap out the complete accessory drive/brackets and the starter will it all swap over

also I was wondering about reusing the harmonic dampener,
should i spring for a new one if I end up buying the 355,

Also the 383 needs a different one, so is this one any good?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-C4266/

it says for the 383 that it needs a non weighted flywheel, can i just use the stock one for a t5,

will a t5 mate up to the engine correctly since it uses a 400 crank, or does the crank have a different number of splines or something stupid?

and finally, how well would a stock t5 hold up to a 350-400hp engine?

Yeah, i dont know much about engine swaps, Ive done plenty of 1 to 1 swaps, not many where i swapped a different engine ,

But thanks for the help, im trying to gather as much info as possible before doing the swap

jm84z28

iTrader: (1)

well on reuseing parts from a 305 the front accessories should work fine as far as pulleys and brackets and ect. starter will fit more than likly but will run into strenght issuse with the high compression of the new motor stock just might not handle it but it should work for short term. and click on the link on the 355 and go to suggested parts tab and click on the harmonic balancer that will tell u the best one to use for the 355 and the 383 from the comes with a harmaonic balancer. and i think the t5 will fit the crank not 100% but ill look into that and t5 will hande daily drivin but not sure about alot of punishment on it how it will fair.

masterhacker198

if i had to replace the tranny every few years that would be fine, i tend to have a lead foot, but i wouldnt want to do it like evrey six months, and i wouldn't beat the living crap out of it, also i would only drive it a few times a week

jm84z28

iTrader: (1)

it should hold for a little while but u could try to get a 6 speed would be nice lol and hope i answered most of your questions cause i just swap my stroker in just recently so you should like it whatever swap u do either 355 or 383

toolegit86

the t5 will bolt up with no problems.. i ran a t5 with a 600hp sbc and nos with no problems. the main deal is when you slam 1st to 2nd thats what tears them out. and lunching them hard will not last!!. Ive taked to people who have ran them with 454's and they say they handle it, but it all depends on the driver.

I like the 355 over the 383 just because the 355 is more of a high rpm motor, both are good motors to run and both are a widley used. it all depends on what power adders you want and how much hp you want to start out with.

masterhacker198

what do you mean by the 355 is a high rpm motor? are you talking something that's still street-able, because i don't want a drag car Have to drive at 7000 rpm to get any decent power, my buddy did that with his mustang, it flies, but it sucks to drive around otherwise

also if anyone cares, I will not be following any emission standards!

the 383 is rated at 405 hp/440 ft/lbs
and the 355 is rated at 385 hp/405 ft/lbs

I was originally planning on rebuilding a 350, and getting about 350hp out of it, but I have nowhere to build a engine, and also I like the 3 year warranty blueprint has, also their engines take a decent pounding from what i have seen, and the other thing, is I dont have to rebuild it, and run into the headaches associated with that (stripped/rounded over bolts, broken bolts)

toolegit86

the 355 likes high rpm is what i ment. the 383 is mostly for a bottom end tq motor

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Depends upon how they're built - cam, heads, intake. The 350 is no more of an RPM engine than a 383. Common misconception. I've driven 327 and 350 farm trucks that pulled like son-of-a-guns but wouldn't rev past 4500. Have a buddy with a 383 in a '57 Nomad that shifts at 6800 and goes through the traps at 7200. Just depends upon how they're built.

The first engine you linked is 2-piece rear main seal, so it would need an '85-earlier flywheel. I'd get a better read on what they say about the flywheel - since the engine is externally balanced, you should be using a weighted external-balance flywheel.

The 2nd one is 1-piece rear main seal, so it would need an '86-later flywheel.

I don't understand why they put cheap carbs on those crate engines. Makes me suspicious that they put cheap parts inside as well.

Get a new damper. Cheap insurance. The one you linked is external balance, would only work on the first engine.

SeanW

He is looking at motors built with cast cranks and hypereutectic pistons. High RPM or power adders isn't really an issue.
Shorter stroke motors are only considered to be "high rpm motors" as far as i can tell for two basic reasons. First being at any given rpm their piston velocity is lower then their longer stroked brothers. So sure the bottom end will theoretically survive to a little higher rpm given the same bottom end materials are used in both motors. Of course unless you are turning cup car rpm's this really isn't going to play out in the real world.

Second is the cam will seem "bigger" in a smaller cube motor and will have to pull to a little higher rpm to make its full power. Given an equal build though the bigger cube motor will still make more power with the same cam. Or you can run a bigger cam to acheive the same rpm and make even more power in the bigger motor.

Power adders, whether turbo/superchargers or nitrous are really just fake cubes. The allow a smaller motor to use more air and fuel like a bigger motor. So power adders or not why would any one want to start out with less cubes? I just don't get it.