Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

Cheapest way to Swap

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Old May 31, 2001 | 12:56 AM
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ADAM NEAL's Avatar
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Cheapest way to Swap

I want to swap my 3.1 V6 for a 350 in my 90 RS.I was planning on getting a parts car with a 350 and all parts needed for the swap for around $500 or $600. Then getting a rebuild kit for around $300 and rebuilding the 350 myself.After its rebuilt I plan on doing the swap myself or possibly getting it done proffesionally.Is this the cheapest way for the swap into my car or is there a cheaper way? Thanks
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Old May 31, 2001 | 06:33 PM
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Anyone know?
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Old May 31, 2001 | 06:42 PM
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five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
There is one cheaper way: Advertise your V6 car for sale, accept the first offer, take the proceeds, go buy a factory V8 car.

Nobody wants to believe it, but it's the plain truth. Lesson I learned at UHK*.

However, what you describe is the BEST way to convert a V6 car to V8 if you insist on going through with it - and if you get a donor car that is the same year and model (Camaro vs. Firebird) as your V6 car. If you are subject to emissions, this is especially true, although a newer donor is also acceptable.

Paying to have it done is, IMHO, insane.

*University of Hard Knocks

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, LT MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/95.5 @ 5800' Bandimere.
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 11:35 AM
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Yeah but then its not really YOUR car. It's GM's car that you bought off of them. Be a man baby, do it yourself. Its tough to be a man baby, but thats what makes you a man.
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 02:44 PM
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NTChrist's Avatar
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Man-baby? Don't even start explaining that one, gay-boy.

You probably don't need an entire parts car, depending on the final setup. If you're not worried about emissions (e.i. going with a carb'd car) then you can get away with just buying a two-bolt block from a junkyard. A lot cheaper than buying a $1000 dollars worth of lawn ornament along with the block.
On the other hand, if you're going with a setup that needs a computer, you're going to need as much as possible from the original car. You could buy everything (ECM, wiring, induction, etc) piece-meal, but unless you know GM fuel injection inside out, things will get seriously messed.

------------------
No guts, no glory.
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 03:46 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You didn't ask the best way to prove you're a man. You perhaps did not read my sig - that work was accomplished by Yours Truly, not some "professional", which you yourself DID propose. Mine is fully emissions legal to boot, and is no chop job.

You must not have read many of my past posts on this topic, in which I say to people (who want to find somebody to do a swap for them) things like "...no better way to learn your machine", "...self-satisfaction factor", "...respect what you've got", etc. Reread my original response: "Paying to have it done is, IMHO, insane," I said. Exactly how is having a factory V8 car different from having a swap performed by a "professional" with respect to being "your" car?

With the improvements I have in work, it would have been just as much "my" car as it is now. The only difference is I would have spent less time and money getting there. But, in any case, my rides are unique because of me, not the other way around.

So, Mr Adam, back off. I stand by EVERY piece of what I said in my original post, which was a reasonable response to your question as stated.
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 08:02 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by five7kid:
So, Mr Adam, back off.</font>
I'm a firm believer in placing the blame where it is due, adn Mr. Adam is the wrong person. It was that Hulk dude.

I'm all for a do it yourself. But know that it's going to cost you more in parts than it would to sell and buy a V-8 car. I know this from experience. By the same token, there is nothing like being able to say "I did it".
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 08:42 PM
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I said that I MIGHT get someone to do it for me.Not for sure.Everyone needs to just calm down.I didn't mean to **** anyone off here.I was leaning towards doing it myself anyway.It would just take more time for me personally to do it.So I would be out of a car for longer,that's all. Later
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 09:01 PM
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Didn't tell you that my car has basically everything rebuilt or new ,but has about 174k miles on it.I also just spent $1600 on my new tranny so I couldn't get near as much money out of it as I have put in it. Thats the main reason why I don't want to sell it and get a v8 car. Thanks
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Old Jun 2, 2001 | 11:08 PM
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From: Peoria, AZ
Engine: chevy 383
Transmission: tci streetfighter auto
Axle/Gears: 3.70 moser 9"
I just finished mine in February and I can tell you it costs a LOT of money. However, every time that I fire it up and hear that wonderful sound I realize it was worth it. Definitely do it yourself but know that it will cost a bunch of money after all is said and done. You are going about it the right way.

------------------
Red '85 MPFI V-6 T-5 Sport Coupe (bought new),now an IROC in sheeps clothing.
Rebuilt and installed '88 IROC L-98 TPI,700-R4,3.27 posi/disk rear,instrumentation, steering gear, and all suspension parts (even the wonder bar)
Mods:
IROC wheels, Hi-perf. rebuild on 700-R4,TCI sizzler torque conv.,B&M megashifter, L-98 .030 over,balanced,decked,blueprinted, SR Torquers, KB pistons,9.1:1 CR, port matched stock TPI, comp cams .450/480 206/210 cam, all free mods, subframe connectors, Edelbrock TES/jet hot coated, CATCO cat, Hooker catback, MSD 6A, airfoil, AFPR, K&Ns, polygraphite bushings all around, 1989 IROC memcal in summer, ARAP memcal in winter.
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Old Jun 2, 2001 | 11:15 PM
  #11  
Glen's Avatar
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From: Peoria, AZ
Engine: chevy 383
Transmission: tci streetfighter auto
Axle/Gears: 3.70 moser 9"
One more thing. Don't even attempt to do this without the GM shop manual. I had both the 85 and the 88 shop manuals before I attempted my swap. The electrical diagrams are priceless. I had probably a dozen wires to be rerouted between the existing 85 V-6 harness and the 88 engine harness going into my car. It is money well spent.
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Old Jun 3, 2001 | 09:37 AM
  #12  
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
I'm with Five7kid, the simplest way is to get a V8 car with a worn out engine and replace it. The tranny from the V6 often has to be replaced, most of the rears are "peg legs" and the springs are weaker.

Find a tired V8 car with the tranny of your preference with a posi rear-end. If you are lucky, you may even scout around for one with a better suspension like the IROC, Z28, Formula or Trans Am/GTA.

This is what I am starting to think about doing as my GTA is getting unique enough to make me think about putting it back to total stock (for collectibility reasons) and just get a 305 5-speed Camaro/Firebird for a strip/barely street car.
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Old Jun 3, 2001 | 09:02 PM
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You just need to scrap that 174K V6er. It will be a very time consuming pain in the bitch time if you go with ANY kind of fuel injection. I would say go for it if you are going for a CARB.... but youre not. Just sell the V6er, and buy a better V8 (try not to buy TBI if ya can find a 350 TPI)with around 100K) Then you just have to sell the car, buy a better one, and you will only have not had a camaro for around 1/2 month max..... instead 6 months, for the Swap. I think youd be more of a man if you did me a favor and ran that V6 camaro into a river. lol j/k (makin the third gens look slow) lol
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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 02:10 PM
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Hulk0202: "Yeah but then its not really YOUR car. It's GM's car that you bought off of them. Be a man baby, do it yourself. Its tough to be a man baby, but thats what makes you a man."
---
Hulk: I think you need to be a man baby by going and losing your virginity baby, and not to a baby, you sick bastard.
PS FAT @$$ HARLEY CHICKS with I love MOM on their arm dont count either! So get a real woman, baby. Be a man Baby!


------------------
IROC-Z :
Jet Black, Tinted Windows, Racing 5 Spokes, Big Block Hood, 91-92 Ground FX, 91-92 Z28 Spoiler, Headlight and Tailight Covers, Lowered. BAD @$$!!
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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 03:11 PM
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From: Tata N.S. Canada
v8 swaps are NOT cheap!!!!!!!!!!
my V8 swap coast me $2000


------------------
C man
-----------------------
motor was a 2.8L v6 now it is
a 305 H.O. with
a th400 trany.

chrisblaster.homestead.com

my car pagewwwhomesteadcomcman.homestead.com/car.html
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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 09:39 PM
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From: Ridge, MD
not to sound like a advertisement, but northern sells 350 rebuild kits for $154. good quality **** too. thats how i did my 305 to 350 swap, and i only ended up spending like 400 total
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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 10:00 PM
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From: Battle Ground, WA
I feel for you, I'm in the middle of the v6 to 355 swap myself... Just remember that while yes, you can get a 350 block for around $100, and a rebuild kit for under $200, the machine work will be probably as much as the block and kit combined. Just take your best estimate of total cost, and multiply it by 150% for a more realistic cost estimate. There is always something you forget to add. Good luck, whichever way you decide to go with it!
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Old Jun 5, 2001 | 03:35 AM
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Thank's I have thought about it for a while and I am going to sell the RS and hopefully get a manual Iroc or Trans Am with a 305 TPI. Peace out.
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Old Jun 5, 2001 | 08:45 AM
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Now your talking adam, I have a 305 TPI 5 speed. Perfect setup to upgrade to a t56 6 SPEED (almost a complete bolt on, gotta love that), and you can get a super ram for the intake, and drop the 305 slap in a 350(also almost a bolt on!). LOL if you consider parting out the 174K V6'er, sell me the ground effects. j/k
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Old Jun 5, 2001 | 09:31 PM
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From: Annandale,NJ
ok, the cheapest way is like you said but you can get the block for around 350, just makesure it is not a truck 350 or you will be down on power untill you change cam and heads. You should get the 350 rebuild for 276 with Cast Pistons from Summit and don't forget all the machining, you will want the heads worked on, new freeze-out plugs and the block boiled to remove gunk from the oil passages. the cheapest way would be a carb setup, but then you have to make sure you have a distributor that will work with a carb. You best bet is to get a 305 TPI or TBI or whatever f-body and just rebuild the engine and slap on an AFPR(for TPI not sure about others). Or yes you can get a donor car but make sure you label everything and take your time, don't get wires crossed or you could start a fire.

Have fun...
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