Ok guys this is my first post so i start out by saying hi. Im very new to third gen camaros, and firebirds I just bought my first one about 2 weeks ago for 650 dollars it just begged for someone to bring it back to life and in my opinion it was a good price, The guy i bought it from was kind of a wack job but he told me he put a 350 bored .30 over with flat top pistons and a mild cam so the motor is legit. so when i brought it home i got it in my garage and put it on jack stands took the wheels off checked the brakes etc. then i started with the interior tear down it was a mess i tore up the carpet the seats took out the interior panels and unscrewed the dash, so the interior is basically bare, there was little rust on the floor boards which surprised me. There was anifreeze on the passanger side where your feet go i was told buy the guys i bought it from it needed a heater core? so then we took the hood off for more room to work on the engine and there were wires everywhere i knew they were there but i had no idea when i bought it most of them really didnt need to be there. My goal for this car is to be a everyday driver except for in the winter so i need all the lights and the dash to work and i also want heat but no ac. I need some serious help with the wiring though i dont know where to start the guy i bought it from barley knew what he was doing. And the reason i put it in the engine swap section is because we looked up the vin number and found that orriginally it had a 2.8 liter in it and also as we took the interor out we found out that it was converted to T-tops! i have a frankenstein car i just need help

 

OMG - what a nightmare! Killer Alien Spaghetti Invasion! You weren't kidding!

If the car runs, and all lights and dash work, and assuming there's no plan for going back to stock configuration in the future - I'd start by taking one wire at a time, see where it goes, and if it's not connected to anything then I'd hack it off (of course leaving enough behind to splice back into if turns out you need it later). That in itself will help alot. The leftovers that are necessary wiring can ten be bundled and wrapped and cleaned up. The hacked ends can be taped off and bundled and hidden then, and that way down the road, if you find out later somethings not quite working right, you'll have the wires to go back to and splice into to correct problems.

 

there is also no ECM in the car the idiot before me took it out for some reason but with the stock dash (not digital) will the gauges still work and if so how can i run them??

 

I don't see anything out of the ordinary there.

Welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

You can start by removing the plastic fender liner from the passenger side. You'll see a big bundle there. Go inside the car and remove the plastic kick panels from that side. Behind the dash above the passenger legs is the ECM (computer). Disconnect the harnesses from it, unclip the harness that passes through the kick panel, and pull that bundle out from the car & engine compartment. You don't have to cut any wires to do this (although you might have to unbundle it from other pieces).

You'll need to get a lock-up kit to run the torque converter lock-up. You'll also need a geometry corrector bracket for the carb throttle arm to properly run the throttle valve cable that goes to the transmission. The way that it is hooked up now will burn up the transmission.

Antifreeze on the passenger floor means heater core replacement. Do it now.

 

ECM doesn't control any dash stuff, so you are good there. ECM just controls engine stuff. So does dash stuff work now? What about lights, turn signals, etc.?

I was gonna suggest the pass side harness removal, but it looked like his spaghetti was mostly on the driver side.

 

what exactly does the geomertry correction bracket do?



and yeah the lights did work but none of the gagues work i dont know what all to do do u suggest i get the schematics for the dash stuff?

 

Geometry corrector just just what it implies - corrects the geometry of the cable in relation to the carb linkage. Improper geometry of the cable can cause incorrect tensions on the cable, thus keeping the TV cable from being accurately set for correct shifting of the tranny. These are not the old school "kickdown" cables, they require much more precise adjustment as they open and close a throttle valve in the tranny in precise degrees to ensure proper shifting.

Search Summitracing.com for geometry corrector and choose one specifically for that Edelbrock carb - summit has their own brand, and Edelbrock makes one as well.

 

here is my harness after i removed all the unused wired
I also removed the WHOLE passenger side harness since its the for the ECU which i removed as well.

 

omgg haha thats what i want! so how did you get your dash to work? thanks everyone.

 

As stated, the dash wiring goes through the firewall bulkhead connectors on the driver side of the engine compartment.

 

to tackle the wiring we need some wiring diagrams does anyone know where we can get them??? we just removed all the wires that were connected to the ecm but now we need to figure out the starting and charging system is there any tips or advice yall have?

 

http://www.team3rdgen.com/modules/3rdGenLS1/Wiring.htm

 

Just like five7kid said, guages are all on the driver side. just look at a wire diagram and pluck the unused wires(theres alot). all my gauges do work.
I also went as far as taking all of the sensors and all the other ECU **** out and pulling the pins out of the connector but thats just how i do things.
Good stuff

 

the motor is not a ls1 how can those diagrams help us?

but as for the wiring we will need which ones do u suggest

 

The diagram there is the C100 connector that your car has on the driver side.

I keeped the wires for:
-Accessory
-Alternator
-Oil Pressure
-Techometer
-Engine Temperature
-ALL OF THE THICK WIRES and GROUNDS

The thick wires are:
-RED - Power from battery
-PINK - Power to ignition coil
-Purple - Power to starter solenoid

I think thats it.

 

ok thanks for clearing that up, sorry to be a pain

 

Gauges are not ECM controlled for your year

You've got a ways to go yet



To swap in an EFI engine, the 3rd gen harness must be cut down to a carb harness first, which is what you're going for

Check over the wiring stickys in the LTx/LSx forum. The job is WELL covered

Only the alt requires a connector
Oil pressure switch is for the gauge, be aware there is also a fuel pump switch that looks like a later oil pressure sender. This is not needed. Later cars condensed the two into one sender
Only a few years grounded the gauges through the C100. 88 is not one of them. You can remove all the grounds, they are part of the EFI harness. This does not include the ground strap from the cyl head to firewall

There are two heavy red 12v battery wires in the C100. One goes to the IGN switch and most of the dash, the other to the light switch

If you keep the electric fan, there will be another heavy red wire. To make it work with the carb, the dark green/white wire must be ran to a thermal switch in the cyl head

 

ok thanks today i worked on covering the interior floor pans with rust prevention paint and worked on painting my interior panels from nasty grey to krylon fusion satin black ill look at the wires when i get off work and take some more pictures of what ive done thanks alot guys!

 

ok on the bulk head connector there are two parts to it in the one picture where it was like a close up on it it looked like the smaller plug that goes into the connector aint there is that really nessasary?

 

now we got this set of wire thar are attached to a connector behind the passenger headlamp what exactly is this used for?

ok now this set of wires come out from underneath the center of the firewall the only thing that i can see it attaching to is the ignition wire (red one) but for the other plugs on it wernt hooked up to anything were they apart of the ECM? this is the primer that we painted on it before the actual rust stopping paintthe driver side fender that we sprayed in black satin krylon fusion paint this is what all the interior pannels will look like when its all doneand one more thing, i tried to figure out what the wires are under the passenger dash can anyone help? thanks for lookin and thanks for helpin.

 

The first relay is either your MAF or burn-off relay. It doesnt matter which because your swap wont reuse it

The second isnt a connector, but rather the power distribution block. This is connected to the battery and powers all of the wires junctioning at it. Another one is the battery lug on the starter. You will need some sort of block after your swap, even if it it just the 12v side of the starter

The next bit is your HVAC miniharness. Red wire hooks to battery 12v, not IGN. Without this red wire, the blower fan will not function. It doesnt connect to the PCM, but rather the HVAC head unit near your radio. The black 4 pin connector(wierd shape) should have two wires in it since the red is external. One black and one blue or green. Black is blower fan ground, the blue or green is AC request signal to the ECM. It bumped up idle when the AC was on to prevent stalling. Even with AC retained, a carb setup cannot utilize this wire

Interior panels do not last long with paint. Very soon they will look terrible

Dash connectors: take a closer pic of the ones in question

 

i put the starter back in today and i have one power wire attached to it and a ground also attached to it. first ? i have is that wire is suppost to go to the battery and than another wire connects from the neutral safety switch to the port in the cylinoid where the battery wire is?

 

No grounds should go on your starter. It grounds to the block. Factory grounds are the rear of the cyl heads

All 12v wires that are junctioning on the starter must go the same lug as the large battery cable. They should all be red. An exception is the alt output which may not go to the starter, sometimes its black

The only other wire on the starter is the purple solenoid wire
Read this for its path
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...nE_starter.jpg

 

the pink and black wire coming out of the bulkhead goes to the coil right?

 

May I suggest looking for a service manual for you car's year. I did the 3.1/350 swap in my 92 and that manual was the Bible. I used it to hook up the ignition, new gauge panel and gauges, etc. Everything worked the first time. It took a while and a lot of double checking but it was worth it not to have to splice wires back together. I found my service manual on eBay.

 

yes i am having the same problems. i reduced the harness to the essentails but not sure if I have everything right and how did you power the fuel pump

 

I dropped the gas tank, removed the EFI pump, replaced it with a piece of fuel hose, reattached the tank and hooked up an external fuel pump (for carburators) to the back wall of the rear seat. I hooked up the pump to the fuel supply line. I moved to the engine bay where I hooked up an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator (set at 6 PSI) to the factory supply and return lines. I feed the carb off of this regulator. I used a Painless Circuit Boss circuit to supply power to the pump. It is on an "ignition hot" wire with a switch on the dash to turn the pump on or off. (I did this so I could turn the ignition to "on" to roll up my power windows, etc. without turning on the fuel pump.)

The EFI pump creates way too much pressure to use with a carb. I could have just gone with the regulator set up like I have and the EFI pump but wanted to do it right (IMHO).

I hope the pictures help too.