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chevy motor idenfication

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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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sethorama's Avatar
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chevy motor idenfication

im having trouble decoding the stamp number on the front of the engine
the casting number is
3970010
the stamp coding says
v1007tyz

and then beside it says
c6j114534

its either a 302,327, or 350
tryng to find out exactly what size
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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DJP87Z28's Avatar
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Re: chevy motor idenfication

Go to Mortec.com.......
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:14 PM
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Engine: 406 sb
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

From Nasty z28

TYZ 1975 350 conv.cab L LS9 165 4 C-10 to 2500
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

that is one of the most common 1st gen small block 350 2 bolt main blocks made forever put in everything
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:27 PM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

I have a 2-bolt and a 4-bolt that are 3970010. That number is very common though.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You know it's a 4-inch bore block. The crank is statistically most likely a 3.48" stroke (very few 302's built, not many more large journal 327's, vast majority are 350's). So, those details aren't all that important. Especially if it needs to be rebuilt, the pistons are irrelevant (you just need to verify when you pull it apart which crank it is).

The heads can be identified from the casting number, found under the valve cover. Most likely they are nasty small valve/large chamber smog heads, which should be considered good for a door stop or bass boat anchor, and not much else.

Get the casting # from the heads, go from there.

(Perhaps we should know exactly what your plans are.)
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 04:32 PM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

Originally Posted by five7kid
You know it's a 4-inch bore block. The crank is statistically most likely a 3.48" stroke (very few 302's built, not many more large journal 327's, vast majority are 350's). So, those details aren't all that important. Especially if it needs to be rebuilt, the pistons are irrelevant (you just need to verify when you pull it apart which crank it is).

The heads can be identified from the casting number, found under the valve cover. Most likely they are nasty small valve/large chamber smog heads, which should be considered good for a door stop or bass boat anchor, and not much else.

Get the casting # from the heads, go from there.

(Perhaps we should know exactly what your plans are.)
my plans are to get the motor running
i got the motor cheap and he promised for it to run
its a complte motor with
edelbrock 1406 carb 600cfm
hooker 2460 headers
edelbrock performer intake

got it all for 200 and the intake headers and carb are all brand new he showed recients
so i thought it was a steal
but my plans are to get it running first which i am in progress of doing and than i would like to deck the motor out
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:26 PM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

heads are the key nothing matters more. that block is typically a pretty good block to use for pretty much everything it's the most popular 2pc. left dipstick block.

~Couch
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

As mentioned above

TYZ 1975 350 conv.cab L LS9 165 4 C-10 to 2500

As soon as I saw the TYZ, I knew it was a truck engine. Most commonly found in pickup trucks as they're easier to pull than vans. In 1975 it was rated at 165 hp and had a Q-jet carb which is most common. The majority of the truck 010 blocks are 4 bolt mains.

There's no telling what's in it now. It could have an overbore, the cam could be different etc. Without tearing it down, what's inside is just a guess.

The c6j114534 is the last part of the VIN code of the truck.

C - Not sure on that. Should be 3-8
6 = 1976
J = Built in Janesville
114534 = Sequential number that starts with 100,001

So although the engine suffix number says it's a 1975 block, the truck it was in was a 1976 production model.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:11 PM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

Originally Posted by NAASBC355
heads are the key nothing matters more. that block is typically a pretty good block to use for pretty much everything it's the most popular 2pc. left dipstick block.

~Couch
thx for all the info everyone
what are some good heads to us
i am on a somewhat of a budget
but any suggestions would help
if you sold give me a link and pricing
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

What compression ratio are you shooting for and what do you want the car to do when you're done?

~Couch
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:29 PM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

Originally Posted by NAASBC355
What compression ratio are you shooting for and what do you want the car to do when you're done?

~Couch

i really dont know on the compression.
im not trying to make a race car or anything like that
i just want a toy i can show off in the streets
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

well there is a whole world out there for that easy on the wallet both at the pump, and at the parts house are World S/R Torquers with 170cc chambers. If they even still make those. Dart makes a next level head that is just killer I would suggest to you the 180cc version of that head I think fits what you want just perfect the problem I have with dart heads extended use on the street is the bronze guides that tend to wear out fast, and those particular guides you can only buy from dart when they do wear out. Worlds heads have factory type integrated iron guides so it's a fits all type set up. RHS may have something to compete in the same class with Dart, but Dart's the best performing iron head by a LONG shot.

~Couch

Last edited by NAASBC355; Aug 6, 2010 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:29 PM
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Re: chevy motor idenfication

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DRT-10120010/ I hate Summit with a passion, but they were the only ones with these heads on the shelf when I checked. You could probably have Jegs order them for you if you disslike summit also, but here are a good set of aftermarket heads that fit what you're looking for. My concerns about these heads are writen in the post above

~Couch
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