chevy motor idenfication
chevy motor idenfication
im having trouble decoding the stamp number on the front of the engine
the casting number is
3970010
the stamp coding says
v1007tyz
and then beside it says
c6j114534
its either a 302,327, or 350
tryng to find out exactly what size
the casting number is
3970010
the stamp coding says
v1007tyz
and then beside it says
c6j114534
its either a 302,327, or 350
tryng to find out exactly what size
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 270
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From: New Waterford, Ohio
Car: '84 Z28
Engine: 406 sb
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: Moser M9/5:14 ratio/Billet Locker
Re: chevy motor idenfication
From Nasty z28
TYZ 1975 350 conv.cab L LS9 165 4 C-10 to 2500
TYZ 1975 350 conv.cab L LS9 165 4 C-10 to 2500
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: New Waterford, Ohio
Car: '84 Z28
Engine: 406 sb
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: Moser M9/5:14 ratio/Billet Locker
Re: chevy motor idenfication
I have a 2-bolt and a 4-bolt that are 3970010. That number is very common though.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You know it's a 4-inch bore block. The crank is statistically most likely a 3.48" stroke (very few 302's built, not many more large journal 327's, vast majority are 350's). So, those details aren't all that important. Especially if it needs to be rebuilt, the pistons are irrelevant (you just need to verify when you pull it apart which crank it is).
The heads can be identified from the casting number, found under the valve cover. Most likely they are nasty small valve/large chamber smog heads, which should be considered good for a door stop or bass boat anchor, and not much else.
Get the casting # from the heads, go from there.
(Perhaps we should know exactly what your plans are.)
The heads can be identified from the casting number, found under the valve cover. Most likely they are nasty small valve/large chamber smog heads, which should be considered good for a door stop or bass boat anchor, and not much else.
Get the casting # from the heads, go from there.
(Perhaps we should know exactly what your plans are.)
Re: chevy motor idenfication
You know it's a 4-inch bore block. The crank is statistically most likely a 3.48" stroke (very few 302's built, not many more large journal 327's, vast majority are 350's). So, those details aren't all that important. Especially if it needs to be rebuilt, the pistons are irrelevant (you just need to verify when you pull it apart which crank it is).
The heads can be identified from the casting number, found under the valve cover. Most likely they are nasty small valve/large chamber smog heads, which should be considered good for a door stop or bass boat anchor, and not much else.
Get the casting # from the heads, go from there.
(Perhaps we should know exactly what your plans are.)
The heads can be identified from the casting number, found under the valve cover. Most likely they are nasty small valve/large chamber smog heads, which should be considered good for a door stop or bass boat anchor, and not much else.
Get the casting # from the heads, go from there.
(Perhaps we should know exactly what your plans are.)
i got the motor cheap and he promised for it to run
its a complte motor with
edelbrock 1406 carb 600cfm
hooker 2460 headers
edelbrock performer intake
got it all for 200 and the intake headers and carb are all brand new he showed recients
so i thought it was a steal
but my plans are to get it running first which i am in progress of doing and than i would like to deck the motor out
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From: NW Houston
Car: several
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Re: chevy motor idenfication
heads are the key nothing matters more. that block is typically a pretty good block to use for pretty much everything it's the most popular 2pc. left dipstick block.
~Couch
~Couch
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,262
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: chevy motor idenfication
As mentioned above
TYZ 1975 350 conv.cab L LS9 165 4 C-10 to 2500
As soon as I saw the TYZ, I knew it was a truck engine. Most commonly found in pickup trucks as they're easier to pull than vans. In 1975 it was rated at 165 hp and had a Q-jet carb which is most common. The majority of the truck 010 blocks are 4 bolt mains.
There's no telling what's in it now. It could have an overbore, the cam could be different etc. Without tearing it down, what's inside is just a guess.
The c6j114534 is the last part of the VIN code of the truck.
C - Not sure on that. Should be 3-8
6 = 1976
J = Built in Janesville
114534 = Sequential number that starts with 100,001
So although the engine suffix number says it's a 1975 block, the truck it was in was a 1976 production model.
TYZ 1975 350 conv.cab L LS9 165 4 C-10 to 2500
As soon as I saw the TYZ, I knew it was a truck engine. Most commonly found in pickup trucks as they're easier to pull than vans. In 1975 it was rated at 165 hp and had a Q-jet carb which is most common. The majority of the truck 010 blocks are 4 bolt mains.
There's no telling what's in it now. It could have an overbore, the cam could be different etc. Without tearing it down, what's inside is just a guess.
The c6j114534 is the last part of the VIN code of the truck.
C - Not sure on that. Should be 3-8
6 = 1976
J = Built in Janesville
114534 = Sequential number that starts with 100,001
So although the engine suffix number says it's a 1975 block, the truck it was in was a 1976 production model.
Re: chevy motor idenfication
what are some good heads to us
i am on a somewhat of a budget
but any suggestions would help
if you sold give me a link and pricing
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From: NW Houston
Car: several
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Axle/Gears: lots of them
Re: chevy motor idenfication
What compression ratio are you shooting for and what do you want the car to do when you're done?
~Couch
~Couch
Re: chevy motor idenfication
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: NW Houston
Car: several
Engine: Lots of them
Transmission: also lots of them
Axle/Gears: lots of them
Re: chevy motor idenfication
well there is a whole world out there for that easy on the wallet both at the pump, and at the parts house are World S/R Torquers with 170cc chambers. If they even still make those. Dart makes a next level head that is just killer I would suggest to you the 180cc version of that head I think fits what you want just perfect the problem I have with dart heads extended use on the street is the bronze guides that tend to wear out fast, and those particular guides you can only buy from dart when they do wear out. Worlds heads have factory type integrated iron guides so it's a fits all type set up. RHS may have something to compete in the same class with Dart, but Dart's the best performing iron head by a LONG shot.
~Couch
~Couch
Last edited by NAASBC355; Aug 6, 2010 at 10:30 PM.
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 181
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From: NW Houston
Car: several
Engine: Lots of them
Transmission: also lots of them
Axle/Gears: lots of them
Re: chevy motor idenfication
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DRT-10120010/ I hate Summit with a passion, but they were the only ones with these heads on the shelf when I checked. You could probably have Jegs order them for you if you disslike summit also, but here are a good set of aftermarket heads that fit what you're looking for. My concerns about these heads are writen in the post above
~Couch
~Couch
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