Ok i'm gonna list what i have, my experience level, and what I want out of the build.

Ok, first off I have built several 302 fords, and 1 400M bbf motors, 2 mopars, and 1 standard rebuild on a 305 (cheap rebuild kit factory everything)

I learn fast and listen, thats the key is I listen...

Ok as for what I have.

I have a 81 350 bored .30 over, standard crank, rods, and factory pistons (i know they wont work dew to bore)
Bare block right now, with crank and rods and pistons in a box
NO HEADS (i got a set but I dont want to use them dew to there HIGH dollar dart heads)
Working on getting a set of factory 350 heads to build to learn

Motor is going in my 92 RS camaro, along with a 70s model th400, and a 4th gen rear end (iffy on the rear end as of right now)

Plans, i'd like to build a 355, with a lot of low end torque, without changing my gear ratio in my rear end (currently 3.73 gears 4th gen rear is 3.43 gears and a posi)
I want a WILD, but yet fairly street friendly cam(vacuum issues, i like having brakes)
I do want 350+HP and torque... but power cost money, it just matters how much you wanna spend... and i dont want to smash a lot of cash into a first time build on a motor.
Last thing i want, is i want to have a fast reving motor... if this can be done with this set up (without loseing that nasty cam sound and feel)

This will be my winter time project, was gonna go with a 383 but desided on a 355.

Basicly what i'll be doing is LEGAL street racing... (hows it legal? we shut down one of the side roads, the town dose not us, and we run from light to light... when the light terns green we go)... so its only 1 block racing, i want to be able to get off the line fast

The motor will only be terning 2 accesorys.. alt and power steering... i'll be useing an electric water pump.

I also plan on going to my local drag strip 1 time a month for "midnight drags" $15 to run from midnight till like 5 am...

So I will be running nos, plan on a 125 shot, but may bump up to 150
I already have the nos..

so a run down on what i have n plans.. 1 more time short n sweet.

81 350 4 bolt main bored .30 over
stock heads (pending)
200 CC dart heads (dont want to use them yet)
stock crank
Stock rods...
Electric water pump
th400 trans

Wants, 350+ hp/tq
WILD but streetable cam
low end torque
Fast reving.
Able to hold 150 shot of nos (125 is also ok)

Thanks guys.. I want to keep this on a tight budget.. but I know I will need some high dollar parts.. i want to put the $$$ where it needs to be to keep from blowing this thing sky high (crank, rods, pistons, studs ext.)

Oh also... need help on what stall i should get on the converter... always ran a 4, 5, or 6 speed manual trans.

Thanks guy.

 

There is one thing that you are missing (going to assume carb), but what induction system do you want to run? Carb or EFI

 

This motor i will be running a 750 Demon carb

 

See if you can find a roller 350 block. If that's just out of the question then that's fine. But there are guys who run Vortec heads and some medium sized roller cams (LT4 hot cam etc) and run like the wind.

It would require machining down the valve guides on the heads to make them work with high lift, but they're available and relatively affordable and amazing out of the box, the only caveat is setting them up for high valve lift - requires machinework.

You're gonna have to decide if you're willing to run a flat tappet cam. If so, you're gonna have to pick a bigger cam to get the same power, but it will allow you to spend money on other parts of the build. But you get a lot more power for a given street-friendly level with a roller cam.

The factory crank is probably fine - turn it. The factory rods are probably fine, but get some decent rod bolts (ARP Wavloc's are good). The cost of those bolts + install into the rods may make it more practical for you to just buy some new I-beam rods with those bolts already, but you'll have to see for yourself to be sure. Usually youll save money, just not a lot, by refurb'ing the old rods with good bolts.

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Vortec heads machined for lift
Comp XE274 cam


And from there just use some good hypereutectic pistons, turn the crank, I-beam rods etc.

Also, 4th gen 10-bolts are no better than 3rd gen 10-bolts. Difference is the axles are wider - will look awful with stock wheels.

 

Thanks for the reply

I planned on useing an old weiland intake i have just for the time being.

As for changing blocks, i already have this block 350 (already .30 over) and am just seeing if I can build a motor to put out plenty of power, on a budget and see if it will hold together...

I am planning on building a roller motor after this one is done, but with forged bottom end, and a blower on top, this is where i plan on useing my dart heads.

Rods are less then $300, so putting good money into good parts for a MAIN piece is a good idea.. I'll look into those.

I'll look into those pistsons as well.

The 4th gen rear was only an idea at the time, it is a posi rear, and i only have the limited slip, the 4th gen rear was gonna cost less then a rebuild on my 3rd gen rear end... so i figured i'd replace it, if its no stronger then i'll spend money where needed, to beef up the stock rear end.

I also run 17 inch ion wheels now... I need to update my photos my car looks nothing like it used to.

I will be running a flat tappet cam, as Im sure that the 81 block and 80s heads wont work with the roller cam and roller lifters...

I may be wrong, only built 1 roller motor and it was a factory H.O. 305, and all we did was freshin it up.

 

I made a major error in my post, I said to turn the factory cam - I meant factory crank. The factory crank is fine, just turn it. Posi = Limited slip. The 4th gen rear may have a different style of posi but it's not necessarily superior. It can be swapped over to your 3rd gen 10-bolt anyway.

Dont use the 80s heads. Use some newer Vortecs or 083's. 083's will require a much bigger cam to get power. Vortecs require a new intake. Heads in sbcs don't care whether the cam is roller or not. Vortecs are 906 or 062 casting. Good heads.

 

If you are running a carb setup, I would run a cam with .500 lift, 225-235 duration on a 110 lsa. That will give you a nice lope idle and have a strong mid-upper rpm pull. My brother is running this came in a 350 T5 car with a 650 holley and it pulls decently. Comp cam 12-246-3

 

thanks for the info.

ill be running a 750 holly double pumper