Hi guys,

On the road to restoring my '84 T/A, and have pretty much decided to go with swapping out my original 305 with a good crate motor. Talked to several people around and was told for the amount of time and money to completely rebuild my orginal motor, (which was always too slow for me), I could spend the same amount and get a brand new crate engine with more HP, torque, etc.

With that said, I'm really stuck on where to go to get one. Smeading, Blue Print, GM Performance, etc.? I don't mind spending a little extra to get the quality and some "hot rod" power, I just don't want to end up with a piece of junk and years of headaches. Looking at something in the 350 to 383 range.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? What should I look for and stay away from, etc.? I'd love to hear from anyone who has done this before, because I sure haven't!

Thanks a bunch!

 

Check out Year One or Classic Industries crate engines.
From what I've seen, heard and read these are good value.
If you want to go a little deeper, Competition Products has an interesting inventory.
These are the companies I had researched (in addition to those that you've mentioned) when I was planning my recent build. I ultimately built my own but only because I managed to source a decent pile of excellent parts. In retrospect I might have done better with a crate engine but time will tell.

 

Call it nit-picking, or pet peeve, or whatever - I hate it when people say that and then talk about putting something non-factory in their car. If you are "restoring" your '84, you'll rebuild the 305 to factory specs.

Okay, end of rant...

Have you considered an LS swap? I think we've already dispelled the notion of a restoration.

 

Thank you Master Yoda for correcting my ignorance and mis-step!

You've got to be kidding me...I'm new to this, come here for help and the first thing you start typing in a response is to call me out because I used the word "restore." I think most people would know darn well what I was talking about. Was that really such a BIG deal for me to have said that?

Like I said, I'm new to this and also have no idea what "LS" stands for. I have a couple of guesses, but might be wrong. Maybe I'm in the wrong place here...I guess I'll wait and see.

Back to the origianl topic...can anyone else help me out on where one would go to get a quality crate engine, or have had experience with a good company. It would be much appreciated.

Thanks to Skinny Z for the advice, I will check those out.

 

Pro tip here, don't back talk one of the more helpful/respected mods on the site, you are much less likely to get real help.

LS refers to the LS1 style of engine that began production for the 1997 corvette that is now GMs standby V8 that goes into everything.

 

Ericjon 262, thanks for clarifying what the "LS" meant. I was on the GM performance website and think I saw some of those. I will keep digging.

Regarding my "back talk"...it wasn't intended to be that. I simply asked what I thought was a legitimate question as a newbee. I unknowingly used the wrong word of "restore" and felt like I got a little slapped down in front of forum for it right out of the chute. I would think that a senior member would understand that everyone has to start somewhere. It's not what you say but how you say it I guess.

I was just a little shocked to immediately see a response like that one. It just doesn't make one feel like they should be asking questions.

 

Wasn't intended to be a slap down. Like I said, pet peeve, rant, etc. I've been corrected so many times (and starting early) on this forum, it isn't funny. So, if an apology will make it all better, I apologize (would you like me to delete it?).

Check the sticky in the top section of this forum about LS1 swaps. Included in the "LS family" are LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6, LQ4, LQ9, LM7, L92, etc. Basically any V8 after about 2001 (except the big truck/RV chassis). The passenger car engines are aluminum block & heads, while the truck engines are typically cast iron block & aluminum heads.

The most commonly available is the 5.3 liter in light trucks. As the sticky says, starting with a truck engine will require changing some things, primarily the oil pan, intake (although a cowl hood will allow use of the truck intake), accessories (main problem is the alternator sits up really high on the trucks). But, you can get a good 5.3 for not much coin (my son picked up a running, with warranty, 5.3 for $325). I would also recommend going with a later 4L60E, as it is a natural with the LS engines, and a superior transmission. It has the added advantage of a stronger case.

Since you said you'd be willing to spend a little more for better quality, I'd recommend at least considering it. These engines are superior (in my humble opinion - and I do mean humble) to any Gen I SBC (Generation I being what 3rd gen V8 cars came with). Yes, it is more work, and yes, it may cost more up front, but good economy, good driveability, and great power are the reward.

Oh, they don't leak oil, either...

On the other hand, a Gen I SBC swap is a lot easier, and probably cheaper. This engine https://sdparts.com/details/chevrole...mance/24502609 is about as close to a "bolt in" as you could get with your car. Take out the distributor that comes with the engine, put on all of the stuff from your 305, and you've got a running hot rod. Of course, factory exhaust and single snorkel air cleaner (assuming you have the base LG4 V8) are pretty lame, so a set of headers and cat back (if you don't have those already) and a dual snorkel air cleaner would allow the engine to reach its potential. I had basically that engine (with cast iron heads instead of the aluminum heads it has) under my 305 carb system from 2005 to 2010, as a daily driver. Ran mid-13's at the track with a slightly higher stall converter and slicks.

 

Five7kid...thank you for the response and correcting everything! Obviously, I mis-understood the intent of your message. I realize now it was just an off the cuff comment, but initially took it as a slam for something I didn't realize I did. I'll chalk it up as an example of what happens when people try to communicate electronically...the contex and jest can sometimes get lost. You don't have to worry about taking anything down if you don't want to.

I appreciate all that good information about the LS motors. I didn't realize they had so many different versions. It looks like I have a few options when it comes down to it. I was leaning more towards a carburated crate motor and hadn't really considered anything fuel injected. I'll will keep my options open though and will spend some more time researching those other avenues.

Thank you again for the information!

 

OK, let's NOT reinvent the WHEEL here.. 'Restoring', 'crate motor'... He doesn't seem to want an LSX turbo, nitrous swap. Check out Titan Engines out of Florida. You should be able to get an engine from them for under $2000. Combine that with an Isky/Comp Cam and some aftermarket heads and you are talking HORSEPOWER!

 

did you read the post above this yours???

 

wow some guys are just a holes I am in the same boat my mechanic was almost insistant on rebuilding the 305 I was told it was almost 2000 to do it without pull out and install so im paying 1500 for a gm goodwrench 350 crate from sdpc.com

 

The goodwrench 350 is slower than most 3rd gen 305's. Maybe the LG4's are slower, but thats about it.

 

I was nice on your other "no reply" thread.Actually kind of joking around.

But damm it,you start out name calling,that sure as hell isn't the way to get my extensive experience advise.

Since when you insult the guys on here who have it all about the cars and swaps they want to help you??.

I sure as hell don't want to anymore!!!.

 

Okay, I got things off track with my first comment, and again, I apologize.

So, let's keep it technical and civil.

 

Is it true the gm goowrench 350 is slower than my stock 305

 

Btw sorry all tha I offended this stuff gets so frustrating it sux building a car with no expertise and small budget

 

Any.uggestions around same price

 

From personal experience and some researched bad reviews ( after the fact, and still kicking myself for not fully researching before purchasing) stay away from Blueprint.