My 83 WS6 TA is a 7.9 second 0-60 time with the 305 crossfire injection system. 3 speed auto, unknown gears (maybe someone else knows for me)
I have had my 355 in the shop getting rebuilt and should be done very soon.
-355 GM crate motor
-4 barrel custom edelbrock carb
-69 corvette heads
-flat top pistons
-unknown camshaft
-Air gap summit racing intake manifold

Stock exaust but the cat might be taken out and replaced with a straight pipe soon.

Im wondering what my HP (320?)and Torque(380-400?) might be looking like and an estimated 0-60 time (5.8 seconds?). I realize that many of you on this board have done your own builds and might have some information for me.

 

A couple of things:

- Need to know the cam. Makes all the difference in the world.

- "69 Corvette heads" - means next to nothing. Need the casting #'s.

Stock exhaust will be restrictive. Removing the cat and putting in a straight pipe will make it a little louder, but not faster.

https://www.thirdgen.org/1983-pontiac-firebird Looks like either 2.93 or 3.23 gears.

 

man.... i don't know if you'll be at 5.8. you still have the laws of physics to fight against. the car still weighs the same, still has the same aerodynamics, possibly the same tires (which are what?) etc. and how much gas you have in your tank at the time makes a difference, blah blah blah... tons of variables.

i'll bet if you had fat drag radials on it, you'd get close to 5.8, but i still think that's pushing it.. but the torque is pretty impressive.

i'm guessing low/mid 6's somewhere unless you gut the car to reduce weight.


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http://redacesmoto.com

 

I don't care what anybody says, especially without knowing what cam



Take it to the dyno and find out.

 

Camshaft is a 69 corvette cam aswell

 

I'd be surprised if it's the factory cam in it still, as those things were known to go flat. Got worse as the ZDDP was reduced in engine oils.

But, we'll assume it really is the factory cam.

There were two 350's offered in 1969 Vettes, a 300 HP version, and a 350 HP version. The 300 HP version was exactly the same engine that was in the 1969 Impala in which I took my first driver's license test - in other words, nothing special. The 350 HP version was a little hairier, but still flat tappet hydraulic.

Factory rating was 380 ft-lbs for both.

I don't see anything that will improve those numbers for your build.

 

It is not the original corvette motor but with corvette heads and cam.
What cam would you suggest to me then if it really does boost performance dramaticly.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...make/chevrolet For example what would this cam give me over the stock corvette cam?

 

You said "stock exhaust". Let's start there instead.

Get rid of it all. Starting at the exhaust ports and going to the rear bumper. You need headers, a good Y-pipe, and a good 3" cat-back. Get 3rd gen stuff for the '86-'90 TPI single cat application - I know that's not what your car is, but that's the best stuff made for our cars (dual cat arguably a little better). If you keep the cat, then a direct-fit for the same application.

Until the "supporting cast" is in place, the cam really doesn't make much difference. So, get the exhaust in order.

Now, I'd stay away from Edelbrock cams. Other aftermarket brands (Lunati, Comp, etc.) just do a much better job.

But, still need a better idea about the heads (don't want to put pearls on swine). Casting #, valve springs (which probably should be replaced to match the cam you end up getting), any modifications, etc. And, a better idea what you'll be doing with the car - daily driver, weekend cruiser, weekend bracket racer, etc.

 

where to begin?


Is it a GM Crate motor, or is it a typical used old 350?

Whats the casting number on the heads?

Even the best 'double hump' heads from 69 are crap compared to todays stuff. Same with the cam.

Get some real specs, and you'll be off to a good start.

 

Im 18 in Highschool just trying to get a sweet fast nice sounding ride with what I got. If you guys can find some cheap cams or exaust systems (thrush is cheap?) for me to put on that would be great otherwise it is not in the budget and I just had the corvette cam & heads laying around.

I will find the casting # for the heads and get that to you guys later tonight or tomorrow.

Will be my everyday driver in the summertime but I wont be driving far distances. Really I want light to light driving and to easily beat all those turbo ricers by a few car lengths.

 

Okay, you asked about the HP the engine may put out, not how to beat turbo imports by a couple of lengths from one stoplight to the next.

First, I do no condone street racing of any type, including stoplight to stoplight. If that is your primary intent for this build, count me out.

Now, I don't mind giving advice for improving performance. Just keep it on the track.

"Custom Edelbrock carb" - have no idea what that is. I can say I'll take a q-jet to an Edelbrock any day, even if the Edelbrock is free and I have to pay for the q-jet. The Edelbrock design is older than the q-jet, and all Edelbrock did for it is make it cheap and shiny. Shiny don't mean "goes fast", and I've seen plenty of dull q-jets go fast. File that in "for what it's worth".

You said you have a 3-speed auto transmission. The link I posted only shows A4 behind a crossfire LU5. Not saying the factory couldn't have done it (that's what all the auto trans were in '82, and an early production '83 may have gotten leftover '82 stuff), but makes one curious what's up with the transmission. The "A3" was the TH200C, not known to be particularly strong. But, maybe somebody swapped in a TH350 when the TH700R-4 (A4) crapped out (pretty common in the early days).

 

The carb, heads, engine before rebuilding, and camshaft are all free too me. So my budget is $1,000 including the rebuild, intake, gaskets, etc. So if you have any cheap headers and exhaust kits that would be great. I cannot find any.
If I was to put in any bigger cam with my stock exhaust I could loose HP because it takes more force to push more exhaust out of the same small exhaust.
What is the Q-Jet carb? I looked them up and they seem to be around $400 which is not in my price range.

This is an ongoing build too. I wont get done fully with it this year.

 

What are the specs for the rest of the car?

Does it have an engine now? Does it run?

If so, the engine should be the last thing on your build. All the HP in the world does no good if the rest of the car is not up to the task.

Suspension should be the first place to start.

Free parts are not always good. Trhowing together a bunch of old parts will not get you to where you want to be.

I understand your budget and desire to go fast.

When I was in school I bought a 1971 camaro. It ran great but had a weak 307. I tore it apart to swap cams, and make it fast. It never ran again. Your budget will get eaten up very quickly with minor parts, gaskets, bolts, hoses, etc... the stuff that is not cool.

I know its not what you want to hear, but if someone had told me this years ago, I would not have pulled my 307 out, and would probably still have my first camaro. Instead I got bored with it and sold it to buy a car that ran.

 

Cheap headers look at Flowtech, Jegs brand, or hedman shorties, all will require a matching y pipe. Jegs also sells a cheap cat back.

 

The fuel injection system failed and it burns oil all the time. Needs a rebuild.
Im not alone on the build, I have skilled mechanics & members from my pontiac club.

 

I think you missed the point of my post.

 

If the crossfire is working keep it for now. Get the casting numbers off your heads and call comp cams 1 800 number and get their advice. Buy the Hedman long tube painted headers and y pipe go with flow master for the rest.

 

The corvette held 350 HP in the 327 block. In the 350 I should get around 370 - 380 HP. Thanks.

 

I'm also 18 and got a great job right out of high school (i went to a tech school for 4 years). The day of my graduation last year, June 1st, I bought my rotating assembly for my 383 build. I NEVER expected to spend so much money on only the little things let alone a couple thousand $$$ on the major engine parts. The reason i say this is that you NEED to get your specs, facts, and plan all together before you buy or start assembling anything or you'll be buying things twice, getting mis-matched parts, etc. which will lose you a lot of money. I saved money and stocked up parts for 11 months (just started my build last weekend) before i was ready to start my build and i still forgot some small things which then added up to a few hundred bucks.

So you need to have everything planned out first, before you can move on to anything else. Also one of the worst things to do with an engine is put yourself on a budget. I'm not saying buy the most expensive things you can find, but buy a brand with a good reputation or you'll just screw yourself over when your engine fails.

 

Yep the little things add up. I probably have $400 just in bolts.

 

Very true. I EASILY have over $400 in bolts. Everything is arp except the intake (came with edelbrock bolt kit) and unfortuently i cant afford $250 arp head bolts, i went with Trickflows bolts for aluminum heads for now but do plan to switch them out. But valve covers, main bolts, timing cover bolts, etc. is all arp, and boy does it add up.

 

And so you know i am by no means trying to discourage you from doing this. I'd love to see it happen and i'd follow the whole build, you just need to know the reality of this process.

 

Thank you for beleiving, im looking forward to showing everyone they are wrong and I cant do it.

 

No one is saying you can't do it.

People are just suggesting you research the parts and make sure you are putting together a combonation that will work well together.

 

stock exhaust, plus an ancient set of heads with an ancient cam. With common 93 octane, you'll ping your way to 220RWHP if you're lucky.

 

Honestly , you can do what we did with a buddies camaro when i was in highschool. A junkyard 350,set of vortec heads and a nice cam with some extra bolt ons. It will be more than enough for you. But one thing i have learned in my short time here is to listen to these guys most of them have already done what you want to do.

 

I second the vortec heads, they are cheap, easy to find, and make a great head for a street machine.