Just picked up a good 350 shortblock and can't seem to find any info on the casting numbers. I've looked the block over several times but the only number I find are 1016379 and Vko72800. It does say 5.7 LG so at least I'm sure it's a 350. Any ideas on the rest?

 

look at the back of the block where the bell housing mounts to the engine (top). if it is stamped 5.7LG, then yes it is a 350 and there will be no other info gained by the casting number. It could or might not be a roller block. It could or might not be a 4 bolt main. The casting number will not tell you any of this info, only that it is or isn't a 350 and what period it was cast (ie. 1968 - 1986, or 1987 - 1992, etc.) To really find out what you have, you need to open it up and check. HTH

 

Is there any reason why my numbers I found don't match up though? I was just curious as to what year it was from.

 

the casting numbers will tell you whether or not it is a 4 bolt main or not. It will also tell you what vehicle it came out of. Mine told me what engine it was what vehicle it came out of and what year the block is. look on the driver side bell housing flange just behind the head and you should see 5.7 and a number.

you can also figure out your heads, crankshaft, intake (if its stock), and block on here. Good luck on your search.
http://outintheshop.com/faq/casting/castings2.html

 

I know where to look but the numbers I posted are the only ones on it. Is there a way to tell if it's a 1 or 2 piece rear Main seal without taking it apart? What year should I order my parts like distributor and plugs for?

 

The only way what i know would either be to pull the oil pan off and take off the rear main cap or to take the flywheel/flexplate and see if it is a 1 or 2 piece. without knowing exactly what type of 350 you have its hard to tell. Are the motor mounts almost all the way forward or more in the middle of the block? Is the block cast iron or aluminum? That can tell you whether you have a gen I, II, or III block

 

I know it's a gen I 350 and I was told it was out of a truck. I just got the shortblock and no flex plate but I heard it run so I'm sure it's good. I haven't had a chance to get it on the stand and pull the oil pan yet.

 

ok yea i would definitely tear it apart bc i bought an iroc and tore the engine apart and the bottom end looked good. I wanted to just make sure so i went it and tore it all apart and found out that the cam was trashed. had to lobes worn completely off and the crank was trashed. It had two spun main bearing and one spun rod bearing. so i would advise going through it for sure.

 

I planned on upgrading cams anyways. I heard this engine run before I bought it and it sounded good but I'll take a look at the bottom end when I take the oil pan off this weekend. Is there a way to tell if it's been over bored? The Pistons have 4 valve reliefs and look to be dished. And they have a 5 on them.

 

not sure i know mine drove just fine. no knocks rattles or loss of oil pressure. when i found all that i was surprised. Mine was bored .040 over and it was stamped on the piston. It was stamped .040 if it has .050 then yes but if it is just 5 then probably not. You can always mic the cylinder. If it is a 350 then it is will have a 4 inch bore and if it is more then that then yes it has been bored over

 

Recheck your #'s. Your missing 1 digit on the casting #. You have 7, should be 8 digits

Could yours be 14016379...350...77-79...2 or 4 bolt main

 

I noticed it was a digit short but I've already degreased and checked again. There is a space between the first and second digits though.

 

Yep with a space being there I bet it's the 14016379 block and some how when block was cast that digit just didn't show up.

 

Ok I guess I'll just order parts from a 350 within those years. Do I need a certain distributor as far as coil in cap or small cap? I just know I need a non computer controlled one as well as a ncc quadrajet to go with my vortec heads and intake. Is there a certain weight oil I should use as far as 10w30 or 5w30?

 

You don't have to order parts "within those years", as determined by the block, except for a very narrow group of things.

Use whatever distributor is appropriate to the rest of your induction system. Big cap small cap isn't determined by the block. However since there are no small cap ones (87-up more or less) that aren't computer-controlled, and it sounds like you're not using any form of computer control, most likely it'll have to be a large cap one.

Use whatever weight of oil is appropriate to the bearing clearances you set it up to, and intended use of the engine. Again, not determined by the block casting. Personally for street or mild performance use I prefer to build motors on the tight side of the acceptable clearance range, like in the .001" - .0015" range on both rods & mains, and use thin oil such as 5W-30; but that's just me. I'm not a fan of "old skool" sloppy loose bearings and thick oil AT ALL.

The only parts I can think of that the year model of block you have will constrain you to, are the crank (2-pc rear main seal), and the oil pan & gasket (check which side of it the dipstick tube is in).

 

Ok Thanks everyone for the info. About the distributor, I will have no computer in this set up. How do I know if I need mechanic or vaccuum advance. Is there anything else pertaining to choosing a distributor o need to know?

 

whether it being vacuum or mechanical it won't matter they both operate the same way. they both do the exact same way. Good luck and let us know if you need any more help

 

With that being said how do I decide? Any advantages to either for my setup?

 

You need a simple large cap HEI dist. with coil in cap and vac advance. Non computer controlled

Any of these.. http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...rder=Ascending

Or a stock unit from junkyard mid 70's to early 80's chevy v8

 

agreed if it was me i would go with vacuum advance setup a lot simpler

 

Distributors aren't "either" vacuum or mechanical.

They are BOTH.

All stock distributors since the 50s, and up to the introduction of computer-controlled timing curves, had both springs & weights to produce a "mechanical" advance curve related to RPMs, and a vacuum can to add further advance during times of very light loads at relatively high speeds (cruising).

Any aftermarket dist you buy will similarly have both functions built-in unless a specifically race-only unit, for the REALLY hard-core race only guys, that has no vac adv; since after all, a race engine is basically NEVER "lightly loaded".