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Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
I am in the process of swapping the lg4 that was in the car for a 10:1 compression 355 sbc I had built. The problem I'm encountering i can't turn the car over. The starter looks to be all hooked up like it was before. Is there some sort of safety from the old engine? Then another problem is the hookup for my Hei distributor with cool in cap I can't figure out if I need to put a new plug on the old harness or do something else. Any help will be appreciated.
I see your color choice for your engine is excellent, but your tractor color....!
good luck , I'm starting a 355/435hp that has sat for 8 years.
Haha thanks engine turned out great and those tractors were some of the other students. The one jd is my friends that is in the picture putting Pistons in. My choice is red! Good luck with your build!
If you want to keep the HEI that's on the engine, the pink wire going to the original coil goes to the "BATT" terminal on the HEI, and the white wire goes to the "TACH" terminal. You can get pigtail connectors https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5663pt and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5664pt , or just use female blade connectors and stick them on the HEI terminals (that's what I did for years when I had an HEI in the '57).
Do you have power inside the car? Those large red wires on the starter terminal provide the power to the chassis. They power different circuits, so you need them both. They are in-line fuse links, so it is possible one of the fuses has blown.
These cars need proper grounds. The battery ground goes to both the engine and the fender - make sure both are clean and connected. There is also a strap from the back of the passenger side head to the firewall - often overlooked when pulling an engine. If it isn't connected or is broken, get it or something connected. You can't have too many grounds.
You didn't say what transmission you have - most likely automatic. There is a neutral safety switch built into the shifter. That shouldn't have been disturbed just by pulling the engine, but strange things can happen. (You do have it in park or neutral when you try to start it, correct?)
Do you have power inside the car? Those large red wires on the starter terminal provide the power to the chassis. They power different circuits, so you need them both. They are in-line fuse links, so it is possible one of the fuses has blown.
These cars need proper grounds. The battery ground goes to both the engine and the fender - make sure both are clean and connected. There is also a strap from the back of the passenger side head to the firewall - often overlooked when pulling an engine. If it isn't connected or is broken, get it or something connected. You can't have too many grounds.
You didn't say what transmission you have - most likely automatic. There is a neutral safety switch built into the shifter. That shouldn't have been disturbed just by pulling the engine, but strange things can happen. (You do have it in park or neutral when you try to start it, correct?)
The car was in park when I tried it. It's just a standard 700r4 i have a lockup kit to put into it yet. I have full power on the interior for radio Windows and lights. I thought maybe it was a ground problem so I used wire to go from negative starter post to frame and it didn't seem to help. And 10 minutes before that I put the engine ground back on with a new connector. I have the main ground to fender on the car but I can't recall where the other wire from the battery is, I'll have to check that!
If the problem was poor ground but the small ground wire from the negative battery cable to the fender is good, you'd have produced smoke (ask me how I know).
I don't recall off the top of my head which red wire to the chassis powers what. Seems lights were separate from the rest, but that detail escapes me. Are the gauges powering up?
Check voltage on the purple wire at the starter solenoid when the switch is in the start position. If you don't have power there, you'll have to work your way back through the circuit.
You might also jump the battery terminal to the start terminal and see if the starter engages. Wouldn't be the first time a starter was taken off one engine having been working, and wouldn't work on the engine it was put on.
Separate topic: What flexplate did you use on the 350? I'm guessing it's a 2-piece rear main seal and your 305 was 1-piece (from the factory, anyway). So the 305 flexplate wouldn't fit on the 350.
You might also jump the battery terminal to the start terminal and see if the starter engages. Wouldn't be the first time a starter was taken off one engine having been working, and wouldn't work on the engine it was put on.
Separate topic: What flexplate did you use on the 350? I'm guessing it's a 2-piece rear main seal and your 305 was 1-piece (from the factory, anyway). So the 305 flexplate wouldn't fit on the 350.[/QUOTE]
Well I may need a new starter cause I kinda did try to jump straight to the starter and all that happened was a hot wire in my hands. And I just got a standard flex plate that would go on a Chevy pickup with a 700r4
If you want to keep the HEI that's on the engine, the pink wire going to the original coil goes to the "BATT" terminal on the HEI, and the white wire goes to the "TACH" terminal. You can get pigtail connectors https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5663pt and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5664pt , or just use female blade connectors and stick them on the HEI terminals (that's what I did for years when I had an HEI in the '57).
My main harness only seems to have a plug with one yellow wire and one red. What then? And replaced the starter today and car still won't turn over or click. Battery has 12 volts. Did my vats system not work or my nss stop working or apart of the lg4 harness. I have no clue.
