buying my first bare block
#1
buying my first bare block
Hey guys, the time has come and I've decided to get the ball rolling on having a trusted engine builder build me a 383 stroker for my 86 trans am. I've gone through craigslist and found a 350 4bolt main 2 piece rear main seal "010" casting.
The add says the block has already been stripped of the cam bearings and freeze plugs, oven baked, and crack tested. it also comes with brand new ARP main studs in the original box. it's been on craigslist for around 20 days and hes dropped the price from $400 to $300.
does this sound like a decent value for what I'm getting? I'm hoping since it's already been baked and checked for cracks it'll save the engine builder time. I sent him the add and he says it sounds good to him. what are your thoughts?
The add says the block has already been stripped of the cam bearings and freeze plugs, oven baked, and crack tested. it also comes with brand new ARP main studs in the original box. it's been on craigslist for around 20 days and hes dropped the price from $400 to $300.
does this sound like a decent value for what I'm getting? I'm hoping since it's already been baked and checked for cracks it'll save the engine builder time. I sent him the add and he says it sounds good to him. what are your thoughts?
Last edited by TylerSteez; 03-26-2017 at 08:05 AM. Reason: just saw he made a new add asking $300 for it instead of $400
#2
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,037
Received 1,666 Likes
on
1,264 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: buying my first bare block
010 is probably the single most common 350 block (actually 302 & 327 as well) from the 70s.
Also as prone as any, to having The Problems that were so prevalent back then from the s****y machine work and "quality control" of the day... starter bolt holes drilled too far from the crank, lifter bores that don't point at the cam, bell housing dowel pins not centered on the crank, cylinders not perpendicular to the crank, and on and on and on and on.
On top of that, it's a 70s block; no roller provisions, LH dipstick, 2-pc RMS.
On top of that, I'm not seeing any mention of its present overbore... who knows, for example, if it has The Cyl Perpendicularity Problem, whether there's enough meat left to bore them back out in the right place?
On top of that, it's too much money.
Not a good deal by any measure.
Instead, go get a 638 or 880 casting. Find a TBI or Vortec 350 out of a truck that's messed up somehow (make sure its defect doesn't involve the block: a TBI w cracked heads for example) and pay like $50 for it.
Also as prone as any, to having The Problems that were so prevalent back then from the s****y machine work and "quality control" of the day... starter bolt holes drilled too far from the crank, lifter bores that don't point at the cam, bell housing dowel pins not centered on the crank, cylinders not perpendicular to the crank, and on and on and on and on.
On top of that, it's a 70s block; no roller provisions, LH dipstick, 2-pc RMS.
On top of that, I'm not seeing any mention of its present overbore... who knows, for example, if it has The Cyl Perpendicularity Problem, whether there's enough meat left to bore them back out in the right place?
On top of that, it's too much money.
Not a good deal by any measure.
Instead, go get a 638 or 880 casting. Find a TBI or Vortec 350 out of a truck that's messed up somehow (make sure its defect doesn't involve the block: a TBI w cracked heads for example) and pay like $50 for it.
#3
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Il
Posts: 11,692
Received 746 Likes
on
505 Posts
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: buying my first bare block
IMO, I would look for a 87-2000ish 1 piece seal roller cam block. No need for a factory 4bolt main either.
#4
Re: buying my first bare block
Thanks for the info guys, it still has the standard factory bore. Was unaware of all the issues with the 70s castings, very good info.
i was worried about it being a non roller block and would prefer a 1 piece rear main so I think I'll pass on this one. Thanks guys
i was worried about it being a non roller block and would prefer a 1 piece rear main so I think I'll pass on this one. Thanks guys
#5
Re: buying my first bare block
just tracked down a 5.7l vortec out of a 96-k2500. the guy is hard to understand but he said "yes it had a lower bearing knock but i did not lock up in the block is still good and the crank you can get turned if you want." only wants $200 for the long block.
Obviously I'm not concerned with the crank but do you guys have any pointers for what I should be looking for when checking this out?
Obviously I'm not concerned with the crank but do you guys have any pointers for what I should be looking for when checking this out?
Last edited by TylerSteez; 03-26-2017 at 10:45 AM.
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Re: buying my first bare block
Every block, including top brand names, cnc or what have you, can have core shift, lifter issues and dowel problems. My machinist just did a block, I wont name block manufacture, but it was a cnc block, the lifter bores were off almost .070 by the time he got to #8 lifter bores. Build the motor you want to build. The key to building a great engine is finding a good machinist who has the tooling and equipment to check and fix the problems.
#7
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,037
Received 1,666 Likes
on
1,264 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: buying my first bare block
The key to building a motor WITH NO UGLY SURPRISES AT THE END is to start out with the best core you can put your hands on. Beats THE HELL outta trying to outguess what the factory effed up and pay for whatever machine work it takes to set it straight.
A 96-2000 motor with a bottom end knock for $200 sounds AHELLUVALOT better as a CORE (starting point raw casting) than a 70s POS for $400 or even $300. I know which way I'd go, sight unseen, without looking back.
A 96-2000 motor with a bottom end knock for $200 sounds AHELLUVALOT better as a CORE (starting point raw casting) than a 70s POS for $400 or even $300. I know which way I'd go, sight unseen, without looking back.
Trending Topics
#8
Re: buying my first bare block
The key to building a motor WITH NO UGLY SURPRISES AT THE END is to start out with the best core you can put your hands on. Beats THE HELL outta trying to outguess what the factory effed up and pay for whatever machine work it takes to set it straight.
A 96-2000 motor with a bottom end knock for $200 sounds AHELLUVALOT better as a CORE (starting point raw casting) than a 70s POS for $400 or even $300. I know which way I'd go, sight unseen, without looking back.
A 96-2000 motor with a bottom end knock for $200 sounds AHELLUVALOT better as a CORE (starting point raw casting) than a 70s POS for $400 or even $300. I know which way I'd go, sight unseen, without looking back.
Thanks again for the help everyone
#9
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Il
Posts: 11,692
Received 746 Likes
on
505 Posts
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: buying my first bare block
The vortec heads are a great cyl head. May want to keep those
#10
Re: buying my first bare block
yeah that's also a possibility. When I first got the car I was planning on a 350 vortec/lt4 hotcam build and read about how capable the heads are when reworked. Now that I'm going with a 383 stroker I feel like they'd be a bottleneck even after being machined out.
I'll hold on to them for a while and see what comes around.
I'll hold on to them for a while and see what comes around.
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
34 Posts
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
yeah that's also a possibility. When I first got the car I was planning on a 350 vortec/lt4 hotcam build and read about how capable the heads are when reworked. Now that I'm going with a 383 stroker I feel like they'd be a bottleneck even after being machined out.
I'll hold on to them for a while and see what comes around.
I'll hold on to them for a while and see what comes around.
#12
Re: buying my first bare block
my budget is about $4500 max, maybe a little more when push comes to shove. The car isn't gonna be an all out race car but I would like to get my absolute money's worth in terms of power