Hi:
I am trying to drop this 5.3 vortec in my 92 Camaro but my F body oil pan doesn't clear the crossmember. It needs about additional 1/4-1/2" to go back. I have tried two different engine mount adaptors that I have and I can move the engine 1/2" further back from the stock location (which hits the firewall), but no luck. It seems the F body LS oil pan deep section is over 11" long and I see there is another LS conversion oil pan with the deep section be only 9" long. I am just wondering if I should spend around $300 or so for another oil pan OR spend $500 or so for tubular crossmember? Yes, tubular crossmember is more money up front but I was planning to upgrade the front end in the future anyway. I just don't have the money to go all out all at once, beside if I spend few hundred dollars on oil pan, I won't have any use for my current oil pan, you can say the money is wasted,
So, my questions are: first, based on the people who have installed tubular crossmembers (I see on different vendors' site say it does but I am just ;looking for practical stand point), do tubular crossmembers open up enough space to clear the oil pan? Second, as I mentioned above, I don't have the funds to go all out all at once. My plan is to get the car on the road and upgraded as I go. So, I see on many vendors' site such as BMI that their tubular crossmember requires the use of tubular control arms which keeps adding to the cost. Any tubular manufacturer (with good quality of course) which doesn't require swapping to tubular a-arms right off the bat?

Thanks

 

Just notch factory crossmember. Its real easy if you can weld & grind. I notched mine 1" so I could run my brake line between crossmember and oil pan and it has at least 1/2 clearance. I installed a piece of 1/4 thick steel square tubing and put it inside the crossmember and It should be stronger than before I notched it. Im using cheap hawks motor mounts with no adjustments and the motor has perfect firewall clearance. Just had to shim up the passenger side a little because engine was low on that side.

 

That is a good idea. My welding skills are just not great.

 

Its only 6 bolts and removing control arm bolts & springs then take it into welding shop. Shouldn't cost that much to get it done.

 

Many people including myself have used the 4th gen LS oil pan without cutting the stock k-member. I used Spohn mounts and have about 1/4 inch clearance .I did move the brake line slightly. It is close at the firewall. I found it easier to get to the bell housing bolts by letting the rear of the trans down slightly

 

What mounts are you trying to use? What trans crossmember are you also trying to run? An aftermarket k-member doesn't guarantee you fitment. The F-body pan will work but if I had to do it over again I would have bought a holley pan.

 

I have icibillet motor mount adapter and also dirty dingo motor mount. I am using a T5 (I know T5 is not the best/strongest option) and the stock transmission mount which came with the car. My goal was to have the T5 where it was located to avoid needing a driveshaft. I ended up notching the k-member. I could get the engine in with dirty dingo and pushing back the engine toward firewall but again, I wanted to reuse the transmission mount and the driveshaft. Now I have nice clearance around the pan.
Thanks for all the help.