89 305 Timing Cover info needed
#1
Junior Member
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89 305 Timing Cover info needed
I have a 89- 305 that had a long neck water pump I will be swapping out to a short neck w/p as the motor will be going in my 68 C10 with all the 68 Chevy Truck OEM stock components at the front of the motor just like it would have been in 68..
I jumped the gun and CUT off the timing tab before realizing I still need a (second timing mark) location on the Harmonic Balancer (2 o'clock'esh) as I will be using an earlier style/year Cover.
Either I go Bone Yard hunting for an earlier style Timing Cover having the tab at the 2 O'clock position or keep using the old Cover (12 O'clock long neck w/p style cover) and buy a Aftermarket Pointer. Not knowing where the motor is at TDC leaves me thinking I Really Need the "Correct Location" of the mark on the balancer so I can "Transfer it to the new location at around the 2 O'clock position for the usage of a remote pointer or aftermarket style pointer. LOL I know that was Long Winded but I hope someone reading this gets what I need to "accomplish" .
Oh I almost forgot to mention this block I believe has a Miss Marked Suffix Code as I know its a small block not a big block. Here's the Suffix Code "AKA" pic below, wonder if i have a "One of A Kind" Motor Ha Ha LOL., Engine casting #'s code is 14093627
Edited. I think I found some info on the Older covers are shorter than the Newer covers being this 305 has roller cam & tappets and has something to do with the T/C being a little bit Taller. Am I right or wrong?
I jumped the gun and CUT off the timing tab before realizing I still need a (second timing mark) location on the Harmonic Balancer (2 o'clock'esh) as I will be using an earlier style/year Cover.
Either I go Bone Yard hunting for an earlier style Timing Cover having the tab at the 2 O'clock position or keep using the old Cover (12 O'clock long neck w/p style cover) and buy a Aftermarket Pointer. Not knowing where the motor is at TDC leaves me thinking I Really Need the "Correct Location" of the mark on the balancer so I can "Transfer it to the new location at around the 2 O'clock position for the usage of a remote pointer or aftermarket style pointer. LOL I know that was Long Winded but I hope someone reading this gets what I need to "accomplish" .
Oh I almost forgot to mention this block I believe has a Miss Marked Suffix Code as I know its a small block not a big block. Here's the Suffix Code "AKA" pic below, wonder if i have a "One of A Kind" Motor Ha Ha LOL., Engine casting #'s code is 14093627
Edited. I think I found some info on the Older covers are shorter than the Newer covers being this 305 has roller cam & tappets and has something to do with the T/C being a little bit Taller. Am I right or wrong?
Last edited by mjgord51; 04-22-2021 at 11:09 AM.
#2
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: 89 305 Timing Cover info needed
What is a vehical?
Stock timing covers (both early and later model) stick out the same amount from the block.
Aftermarket covers tend to stick out further.
That could be a problem if you are going to run the early short water pump pulley setup because the back of the water pump sits right up against the timing cover.
You need a piston stop and degree wheel to correctly determine TDC (Top Dead Center).
Stock timing covers (both early and later model) stick out the same amount from the block.
Aftermarket covers tend to stick out further.
That could be a problem if you are going to run the early short water pump pulley setup because the back of the water pump sits right up against the timing cover.
You need a piston stop and degree wheel to correctly determine TDC (Top Dead Center).
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mjgord51 (04-11-2021)
#3
Supreme Member
Re: 89 305 Timing Cover info needed
take a look at the timing cover and crank damper meant for ~1976-1991 corvettes:those use short WP and ~2;00 timing tab. Lower part of timing cover changed slightly for a thicker gasket around 1975 or 76
The following users liked this post:
mjgord51 (04-11-2021)
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Re: 89 305 Timing Cover info needed
What is a vehical?
Stock timing covers (both early and later model) stick out the same amount from the block.
Aftermarket covers tend to stick out further.
That could be a problem if you are going to run the early short water pump pulley setup because the back of the water pump sits right up against the timing cover.
You need a piston stop and degree wheel to correctly determine TDC (Top Dead Center).
Stock timing covers (both early and later model) stick out the same amount from the block.
Aftermarket covers tend to stick out further.
That could be a problem if you are going to run the early short water pump pulley setup because the back of the water pump sits right up against the timing cover.
You need a piston stop and degree wheel to correctly determine TDC (Top Dead Center).
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Meriden, CT 06450
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: 89 305 Timing Cover info needed
You can do this trick without any special tools or risk breaking anything:
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Re: 89 305 Timing Cover info needed
You can do this trick without any special tools or risk breaking anything:
https://youtu.be/Aw7IdW4Qxcc
https://youtu.be/Aw7IdW4Qxcc
Thanks for that Video Good Trick I'll have to use that one, it is a little hard to hear when he says what he is using to insert in #1 spark plug hole. All I heard was copper tubing something used at that end, but all in all the visualization gives a good idea on this method.
Thanks
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Meriden, CT 06450
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Received 511 Likes
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: 89 305 Timing Cover info needed
The adapter from an air hold tool used to keep the valves in place during valve seal or spring replacement would work. Just add clear tubing. Or, if you are handy, you could make an adapter from an old spark plug.
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