Performing an LS swap and have read that I have to bypass the VATS. I have already located the starter kill relay and connected the two heavy wires at the relay. See image below. Do I still have to also install a VATS bypass module? FYI, I am all wired and am getting no power when I turn the key (to crank or run) to any of the supposed "hot" wires. Thank you.
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VATS does two things; it controls the ground to the relay at the connection you have bypassed, and it sends a square wave to the ECM to allow the injectors to fire. Assuming you have a stock LS ECM, I believe you will still need a bypass module to send that signal to the ECM, or tune the need for that signal out of the ECM.

No power to the hot wires in run sounds like a separate issue.

 

This should get you squared away.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...pass-vats.html

 

Thanks Komet. Have a part # or URL for such a module perhaps? Also, I have a 4L60E and have also bypassed the neutral safety switch by using a relay that is connected directly to the starter solenoid "S" terminal and then to a "hot" ignition wire (10AWG Yellow wire?) when key is in start/crank position. Still not sure why getting not voltage to any of the ignition wires when turning key.

 

Thanks QwkTrip. So I am using an LS1 and its OEM PCM. That said, Method C is what I would want, correct? And your post #2 shows jumping the starter relay, which I have already done. So which post touches on how to bypass the "pass key module?" By the way, love your comment in post #7!

 

You could just do a search on the net

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282700412289

 

Your car has its original VATS; And the LS1 engine ECM has its own VATS too. Those things are separate and won't talk to each other. The way you deal with the LS1 ECM is you go into the software and turn it off, like described in Method D. You can stop right there if you want because the original passkey module in the car will continue to trigger the start relay as long as you have the correct pellet in the key.

However, if you want to eliminate the need to have a "security key" with the pellet, then you can take further steps to bypass that feature as described in any of the other Methods A, B, or C.

* Method A eliminates need for pellet key and that's it. Everything else will stay in tact.
* Method B eliminates need for pellet key, and it wipes out the passkey module.
* Method C eliminates need for pellet key, and wipes out the passkey module and the start relay. The starter will be wired directly to key switch. This is what you've done already.

 

OK, so many options here...can someone confirm that if I:

(1) jump the start relay (which I have done) and
(2) install a passkey bypass module (which I just ordered form Tuned Performance's link...thank you...),

I should be good to go, correct?

 

There is a park/clutch interlock switch in the circuit. If that's not closing then the starter won't crank.

 

Can you give me some more detail on the park/clutch interlock switch? Where is it? How can I test it? Replace it? Etc. Thank you!

 

That should be what you need to bypass VATS.I believe it's also known as the neutral safety switch, it's in the shifter area I think. If you're doing an LS swap, I think you would greatly benefit from a factory shop manual for your car. It has full troubleshooting steps for every electrical component.

 

@Komet...yes the NSS was also bypassed (or so I thought) as I described above...see post #4. Thank you.

 

You're not making a strong enough effort to understand and that's why you're failing at it. You need to up your game by taking more personal accountability to understand what you've been told.