I have the LT1 in car, car was originally TPI. motor mounts hooked up, fuel lines done, P.S lines done, etc, etc. All wires are hooked up except C100, C105, C210, C220 and C230 connectors. On to wiring. I have tried looking at schematics, lt1 swap start to finish thread here, lt1swap, wiring for dummies thread here, etc and I dont grasp some things well but I think I am very close. IF I understand correctly this is how i will wire my 97 LT1 from a T/A: PLEASE correct me if I am wrong.

LT1 C100 PIN A PINK pwr feed from injector #9 run to C207 PIN G wire at my 87. This will feed pwr to 4 of my injectors

LT1 C100 PIN G PINK pwr feed from IGN (this is something to do with ignition, not sure what) run to factory switched pwr wire of 87. I believe this will pwr IGN (coil, etc)

LT1 C105 PIN B PINK pwr feed from Injector #10 run to C207 PIN B wire at my 87. This will feed pwr to my other 4 injectors

LT1 C210 PIN C ORNG pwr feed from PCM run from this to C100 A4 wire at my 87. This will feed pwr to PCM

LT1 C210 PIN A PRPL thft deter relay to starter I believe I will run a wire from this to C100 B4 wire on my 87

LT1 C210 PIN D RED fuel pump feed run from this wire to C207 PIN D wire on my 87. This will pwr my fuel pump

C220 PIN E PINK pwr feed from PCM IGN run from this wire to switched pwr on my 87?

C230 PIN G PINK pwr wire for an engine sensor? (not sure what this is for) run to a switched pwr source on my 87

Is it possible to get my switched power sources not found at the 3rd gen C100 from my 87 fuse block?

I understand I would still need to wire ALDL and ALT. For now I am just hoping to make the car run and then move forward as I go. Hopefully someone is kind enough to help out. I don't want to hook up the wrong wires and fry the PCM or worse. Thank you.

 

I've not done this swap but it seems pretty much like most gm.
pink is key hot
Orange is battery hot
Black is ground.

I personally would wire all the injector power to one fuse instead of dedicating 2 fuses just for injectors. But following an already proven method isn't bad by any means.
It seems like you're doing fine. Backcheck what you do before you make it a permanent connection but don't overthink it, wire harness swapping isn't hard at all. You're doing good.

 

Thank you for the kind words friend, hoping I can end up completing this. I thought about LS but so many people are doing them now I wanted to be different, stay EFI, upgrade over TPI while still not going the LS route.

 

LT1 isn't a bad engine. Just the timing of a better engine coming out ended its run really quick. I have tossed around the idea of LT1 swapping mine because I have the entire 96 trans am just sitting waiting for me to do something with it. I applaud you for going outside of the norm. To be honest, back in the early 2000s I used to watch LT1 cars destroy mustangs and freshly purchased LS cars. I would suggest the optispark delete once you have it running and feel comfortable with your swap.

 

What are you going to do with the cooling system? Since the LT1 is reverse flow.

 

Anyone know the Web Page/ Address for the Collection of LT1 Swap Wiring Information?

 

I think I found it...

Check the Hyperlink below:
Hyperlink

If anyone Knows for certain, please correct me.

 

C100 cavity A and K are fuel injector power

 

I can see where your confusion comes from

 

If it were me. I would bridge the left and right bank injector power wires to each other and then to c100 cavity A which should be pin G on your car harness like you said, and then run a 10 amp fuse.

 

Here are the diagrams i got for the 97 trans am.

 

The injectors are already spliced together in s101 and s102 and run off of the 15a fuse in the underhood fuse box. You should probably keep it setup like that.
this diagram isn't showing connector c100 so I'm going to have to look up a pinout on that one.

 

these seem like the only relevant diagrams that I needed to look at for now on the 87 wiring

 

The large purple wire for your starter signal is hard to miss. It's the only larger purple wire in both wiring harness. Look where it did come through the firewall and put the new one in that spot.

 

I have the 97 radiator and fans

 

Awesome thanks for the info. I have the 97 radiator and fans as well as the lt1 coolant hoses

 

OK after speaking to some folks at ltxtech here is what i have came up with, have yet to wire it up. Is there any reason why I cant use my 1987 C100 PIN A4 and PIN F4 for all of my switched power connections?

LT1 C100 PIN A pink run to C221 PIN A (even inj) or D (odd inj) at my 1987. OR if that wont work, any switched pwr source hot with key on & RUN such as C100 F4 / C100 A4 at 87. This will power ALL 8 injectors

LT1 C100 PIN G pink run to C100 A4 / C100 F4 at my 1987. This will be switched with KEY ON & RUN powering coil, ICM, CPS

LT1 C105 PIN B pink run to C100 A4 / C100 F4 at my 1987. This will power ALL O2s, MAF

LT1 C210 PIN C orange run to? any constant 12V at my 1987. This a power connection at PCM for pins 15 and 31 at the black PCM connector

LT1 C210 PIN A purple run to C100 B4 at my 1987. This goes to theft deterent relay, this will feed my starter power

LT1 C210 PIN D red to C207 PIN D at my 1987. This is fuel pump prime / test wire. This is one way to get power to fuel pump, I can wire it to a toggle switch or utilize my 3rd gen FP relay.

LT1 C220 PIN E pink to C100 A4 / C100 F4 at my 1987. This is another power connection for PCM at BLACK PCM connector for pin 30 as well as PCM connector C4 BLUE pin 3

LT1 C230 PIN G to? any constant 12V at my 1987. This will power brake pedal switch that unlocks tq converter? I believe that is all i have to do for this specific connection?

Still have yet to look into ALT wiring

 

You can for the most part do that. When you group larger amounts of wires together like that you end up putting a higher amp load on the initial point of power and you also end up with a large amount of devices on one fuse. It's got its benefits and it's drawbacks doing that. One benefit is simplicity of the build but one drawback is diagnostic when something fails. If you have 10 devices on one fuse and it blows the fuse, you will then have to go through each 10 legs of that circuit you have created and determine which one is failing. Not the end of the world but having sub fuses would make that process a little easier on you.
Identifying the pink wires that need key on hot and the pink wires that need key on/start wires is definitely a good thing to do. My first LS swap I had the coil wires on key on wires not key on/start. So when I would crank it, it wouldn't start until that split second when I let go of the key, took me a little while to realize it was a problem then I felt dumb after I realized how simple of a mistake it was.