I was talking to two different mechanics today about header installation. The first guy said he was scared if he tried to remove the old manifolds and install new headers he may accidently break some old rusted bolts? I think he said the bolts were in the manifolds or heads?? He said it would be like another 200-300 if that happened to remove the bolts etc. He suggested I try another guy who does exhaust only. I talked to that guy, who seemed pretty nuts. He said not to do headers, because unless you tighten the bolts once a month the header gaskets leak once a year and you have to redo them? I've never heard of any of this, is any of this true? BTW both wanted about 450 for the labor.

 

LMAO, sorry the title cracks me up.

Well, the old bolts could break off in the heads as that is where they connect. Mine didn't when I had the stock LG4 motor.

And the other guys is a moron really, cause if he knew anything they make stage 8 locking bolts that will not loosen so you won't have leaks.
Though, I'm not using them and one did fall out once that I didn't know off, it was in the back when I had the AC box in, and I had a leak for the longest time.
So, just invest $40 into good bolts and don't worry about it.

 

I just wanna reply and say that the title of this thread is classic...I believe it's the funniest i've ever seen that wasn't intentional.

 

lol same here

 

If you busted a nut and broke the gasket then you need to go here:
www.plannedparenthood.com

 

nah it was no accident the original idea for topic was broken gaskests and bolts, but I saw the potential for humor and figured someone may actually respond with a funny topic heh.

 

right now i'm too cheap to invest in a set of 40 dollar bolts. I kept blowing out header gaskets which is a pain in the **** to change. So i got some copper ones and put some high temp silicone. I slapped em on and then made another mistake, I just cruised around without letting the silicone cure. So I have another loud a$$ exhaust leak and I'm just to lazy to fix it. I just tend to crank up the stereo till it drowns out the sound. BTW I think that my cat is starting to get clogged up. It feels like there is so much backpressure when I fix all the leaks in my exhaust. I'm going to cut the cat off and put a straight pipe in its place sometime in the next month or two.

 

If they're careful taking the bolts out, then they probably won't break. As for the leaking, mine haven't leaked at all thanks to Stage 8 bolts and aluminum gaskets.

 

Whats the deal with tightning the nuts, Im thinking of trying to do it myself. Why is it so hard? Do u have to remove stuff before you can reach them? Ive heard it can take up to 30min a bolt, thats ridiculous. Also on the subject, whats a good brand of header? Im gonna have a custom y pipe made, so I dont want to buy set with pipe. Also has to have AIR and egr, smog legal etc.

 

You do have to remove some accesories to get to the manifold bolts. It can take up to 30 min a bolt, but the longest I spent on one was about 20 minutes. It's hard to do it because the bolts are rusted in there and you're trying to get them off with out breaking them or rounding them off. If you're gonna do it yourself, just use lots of penetrating lube and spray them down reall good the night before, that morning, and right before you work on it. A good header that doesn't come with a y-pipe are hooker competitions. I think you can get them smog legal, but not sure. They're $140 uncoated at summit or $320 coated to you door (I know because I have them).

 

I dont have to worry about rust, because Im getting the old manifolds removed and the new headers installed professionally. I just dont want to have to pay a mechanic to tighten my new bolts every week. What accessories do you have to remove to tighten them?

 

The only real problem with tightening header bolts is getting to the bolts right next to the primaries. Some, well actually most headers bend right over the #1 and #2 exhaust ports. That makes it a real PITA.

Plus #3 to #6 are usually RIGHT NEXT to the bolts. Sometimes a thin wall socket is the only thing that'll get in there, and then you're jepordizing the strength of the socket on the bolt.

I can tell you from experience the Stage 8 is the way to go. The little allen head makes things MUCH easier. What I normally do is use an allen wrench as well as an offset open end just to get that little extra umph.

 

If I just go with Stage 8 Locking bolts, how often do I have to maintenence them? Like do they stretch over time or something?

 

Once you put them in you won't have to touch them ever again.

 

I was told the same thing by meinke. Both side are pretty bad.

 

Depends on bolts and rust, blah blah. I got lucky and nothing broke, my bolts don't back out either. ARP bolts are good, I'm using six point 3/8" ones. Just standard felpro gaskets..no leaks in two years. The header bolts are most likely half loose in most situations. In the two header installs I've done on third gens rear bolts were already loose and the rest came out easily. These were california cars with minimal rust, though. Soaking everything in PB Blaster is a great idea. You can install headers yourself.. it's just unbolting some things and replacing them. It is NOT a difficult job, just time consuming-especially if something goes wrong. But take your time and it won't go wrong.

 

AHHAHAH at topic. "Busted Nuts" ROOOFL. poor guy.