Full length Super Comps....what a pain
Full length Super Comps....what a pain
I decided about 3 months ago that I HAD to get full length headers...enough of this shorties business and there not being enough room for full length's in a thirdgen, I want the advantage of a full length header! Well, I've had really nothing but setbacks with them, but I enjoy being different
Here's the deal:
Well, even though the install was supposed to be a bear, I was able to shove them in from underneath the car after lifting the engine up 3-4".. (scratched the hell out of the paint though, so when I put the new engine in I'm going to get them coated and be much more careful installing them next time!)
From there I figured since I've got the full length, why not go true dual...I finally found somebody that would make me a true dual setup "under the table" so I didn't need cats, but the ground clearance stunk because it went under the axles and it cost around $550.
That idea was scratched and I really didn't know what to do until I stumbled upon the Mufflex site...low and behold they make a Y-pipe specially for Super Comps in thirdgen's. Here I am as giddy as a school girl with a solution finally, but the price tag of $300(inc. shipping) really hurt. So I finally get the y-pipe thinking, since it's supposed to be for my exact setup, I'll have no install problems...WRONG...In order to get the y-pipe to work, I had to cut the lip on the tranny crossmember on all 4 corners in order to give myself another inch or so. Even after that, I had to bring myself to the reality that I was going to have to pound even more, these beautiful expensive exhaust pieces
Finally, low and behold they decide to coax into position, but actually bolting them to the collectors and getting them in the y-pipe is another story.
#1, there is NO room to get to the top collector bolt. I'm debating to take it to a mechanic and let him worry how the hell he's going to tighten that. You may think I'm nuts, but when you see it, you'll realize you'll have to be missing a few joints in your hands to squeeze up in there
#2, it is so annoying trying to get those 2 pipes to line up perfectly in order slide into the y-pipe...
At this point I have the y-pipe on, and my pipes semi-bolted to the collectors...while I have only good things to say about the quality of both the headers and the exhaust, it's ridiculous to try to install it on thirdgens.
Granted, I'm only 17 and my wisdom and patience is far outdone by my fellow thirdgenner's but I tried; I really did.
Maybe I should write a tech article about full length headers? (I could pretty much just copy this
)
Am I nuts, or are other people experiencing this same let down? I know that Stephen87IROC has full lengths but the lucky bastard only needs turn downs (only kidding stephen
) Steve's ZZ5 has true duals w/ Super Comps, but I've talked to him before and he wasn't completely satisfied with the setup. So anyways, I'm curious, tell me what you guys think. Right now, I'm looking at finishing installing this and then buying a 10' piece of 4" exhaust tubing and just run it out back...this y-pipe has hurt the pocket so I can't afford the damn $500 4" catback that Mufflex offers.
------------------
82 Z28
355 carb'd, Edelbrock Performer RPM package (minus heads), Hooker Super Comps, Mufflex 4" offroad y-pipe, 700r4 with B&M shiftkit, '85 IROC 10 bolt rear with Richmond 4.10's & Auburn posi unit, Lakewood 50/50 drag shocks. Shooting for 3000lbs w/ driver.
The car's website (New design in progress...very cool look)
(383/TH350 buildup this winter)
AIM: Unitedhope
ICQ: 77979548
Here's the deal:Well, even though the install was supposed to be a bear, I was able to shove them in from underneath the car after lifting the engine up 3-4".. (scratched the hell out of the paint though, so when I put the new engine in I'm going to get them coated and be much more careful installing them next time!)
From there I figured since I've got the full length, why not go true dual...I finally found somebody that would make me a true dual setup "under the table" so I didn't need cats, but the ground clearance stunk because it went under the axles and it cost around $550.
That idea was scratched and I really didn't know what to do until I stumbled upon the Mufflex site...low and behold they make a Y-pipe specially for Super Comps in thirdgen's. Here I am as giddy as a school girl with a solution finally, but the price tag of $300(inc. shipping) really hurt. So I finally get the y-pipe thinking, since it's supposed to be for my exact setup, I'll have no install problems...WRONG...In order to get the y-pipe to work, I had to cut the lip on the tranny crossmember on all 4 corners in order to give myself another inch or so. Even after that, I had to bring myself to the reality that I was going to have to pound even more, these beautiful expensive exhaust pieces
Finally, low and behold they decide to coax into position, but actually bolting them to the collectors and getting them in the y-pipe is another story.#1, there is NO room to get to the top collector bolt. I'm debating to take it to a mechanic and let him worry how the hell he's going to tighten that. You may think I'm nuts, but when you see it, you'll realize you'll have to be missing a few joints in your hands to squeeze up in there

#2, it is so annoying trying to get those 2 pipes to line up perfectly in order slide into the y-pipe...
At this point I have the y-pipe on, and my pipes semi-bolted to the collectors...while I have only good things to say about the quality of both the headers and the exhaust, it's ridiculous to try to install it on thirdgens.
Granted, I'm only 17 and my wisdom and patience is far outdone by my fellow thirdgenner's but I tried; I really did.
Maybe I should write a tech article about full length headers? (I could pretty much just copy this
)Am I nuts, or are other people experiencing this same let down? I know that Stephen87IROC has full lengths but the lucky bastard only needs turn downs (only kidding stephen
) Steve's ZZ5 has true duals w/ Super Comps, but I've talked to him before and he wasn't completely satisfied with the setup. So anyways, I'm curious, tell me what you guys think. Right now, I'm looking at finishing installing this and then buying a 10' piece of 4" exhaust tubing and just run it out back...this y-pipe has hurt the pocket so I can't afford the damn $500 4" catback that Mufflex offers.------------------
82 Z28
355 carb'd, Edelbrock Performer RPM package (minus heads), Hooker Super Comps, Mufflex 4" offroad y-pipe, 700r4 with B&M shiftkit, '85 IROC 10 bolt rear with Richmond 4.10's & Auburn posi unit, Lakewood 50/50 drag shocks. Shooting for 3000lbs w/ driver.
The car's website (New design in progress...very cool look)
(383/TH350 buildup this winter)
AIM: Unitedhope
ICQ: 77979548
Moderator


Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
Likes: 171
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Ha! Full lengths on a third gen will always be difficult. I don't have to worry about my hedmans and turndowns anymore. When the big block is installed, the supercomps come out by the rocker panels. Ground clearance will be at a premium but I should be about to run a few feet of straight pipe off the collectors without needing turndowns. I'll cut the straight pipe once I figure out how long I'll need. Coat the pipe with grease pencil and cut it off where it stops melting.
Having a race car is nice. I don't have to worry about fabricating a full exhaust system
I did see a true dual system once. A special H-pipe (not Y) was fabricated and both pipes came together just behind the tranny and ran down the driveshaft tunnel.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car and knocking on the SuperPro ET class
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
LS6 Big Block buildup now in progress
Best results before the engine blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857
Best corrected ET: 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87
Best corrected MPH: 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
Having a race car is nice. I don't have to worry about fabricating a full exhaust system

I did see a true dual system once. A special H-pipe (not Y) was fabricated and both pipes came together just behind the tranny and ran down the driveshaft tunnel.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car and knocking on the SuperPro ET class
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
LS6 Big Block buildup now in progress
Best results before the engine blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857
Best corrected ET: 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87
Best corrected MPH: 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 4
From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
I'll be installing the full lengths relatively soon. I have the Hooker SuperComp full lengths. However, I will be taking the car directly to Mufflex (about 3 hours from me) and having THEM install the Y pipe along with the 4" catback.
I will also be writing a fully detailed tech article on this install with everything imaginable.
I've collected the following tidbits from other long tube owners...
1) you need to put the O2 bung on the TOPSIDE of the collector on the driver's header.
2) Most people either used a 90deg fitting for the knock sensor or moved it to the passenger side of the block.
3) Installing new engine mounts (poly mounts) is a great idea if you can do it. This ensures that the exhaust that you bolt to the long tubes will be at the proper clearance level with new mounts
4) Everyone said a ministarter is needed.
5)I have also heard rumors about the brake lines needing to be moved.
6) Everyone slipped their headers in from the bottom
7) IF you have the stock oil cooler then you probably need to removed it.
Tim
------------------
TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.532 @ 109.21mph (1.778 60')
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels. Stock Wheels. No Weight Reduction.
Gunning for NA 11's after installing Hooker LT Headers and reducing weight.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org
I will also be writing a fully detailed tech article on this install with everything imaginable.
I've collected the following tidbits from other long tube owners...
1) you need to put the O2 bung on the TOPSIDE of the collector on the driver's header.
2) Most people either used a 90deg fitting for the knock sensor or moved it to the passenger side of the block.
3) Installing new engine mounts (poly mounts) is a great idea if you can do it. This ensures that the exhaust that you bolt to the long tubes will be at the proper clearance level with new mounts
4) Everyone said a ministarter is needed.
5)I have also heard rumors about the brake lines needing to be moved.
6) Everyone slipped their headers in from the bottom
7) IF you have the stock oil cooler then you probably need to removed it.
Tim
------------------
TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.532 @ 109.21mph (1.778 60')
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels. Stock Wheels. No Weight Reduction.
Gunning for NA 11's after installing Hooker LT Headers and reducing weight.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org
Thanks for the responses guys...
Stephen, the dual setup I was talking about was very similar to what you described, but since I drive my car pretty much 3-4 times a week I still like it quiet and have ground clearance for the street.
Tim, I think you're making the right move to let Mufflex install the system, but since I'm just a kid on an extremely tight budget I can't afford somebody else to do the work and I really do everything myself, unless I HAVE to have somebody do it.
Some comments on what you wrote:
-As far as the O2 bung and the knock sensor, I don't have a computer in my car so that's not a concern.
-I did NOT need a ministarter, I'm not sure where people are getting that?? it was a pain to get around it when I installed it and some people go so far as to remove it, but I managed to keep the stock one in there.
-No stock oil cooler, but somewhere down the line I'm sure I'll have to get one so I'll keep that in mind
-I removed the cruise control in my car so the place I put the speedo cable had to be moved a little bit in order to clear the headers, but you're right the brake lines on the driver's side and the fuel lines on the pass. side are dangerously close to headers. I'm forseeing me replacing both components and relocating them to get around this.
Tim, when you get a chance, please take pictures of your setup when Mufflex is finished with it...I'm not sure where exactly the y-pipe should be located (it's right under the torque arm the way I have it positioned now) and it points to the pass. side a little bit...I think this is correct, but the website doesn't have a whole lotta pictures.
*just to note, the y-pipe is actually a flowmaster piece, the only thing Mufflex really makes is the 2 pipes running from the collectors.
Stephen, the dual setup I was talking about was very similar to what you described, but since I drive my car pretty much 3-4 times a week I still like it quiet and have ground clearance for the street.
Tim, I think you're making the right move to let Mufflex install the system, but since I'm just a kid on an extremely tight budget I can't afford somebody else to do the work and I really do everything myself, unless I HAVE to have somebody do it.
Some comments on what you wrote:
-As far as the O2 bung and the knock sensor, I don't have a computer in my car so that's not a concern.
-I did NOT need a ministarter, I'm not sure where people are getting that?? it was a pain to get around it when I installed it and some people go so far as to remove it, but I managed to keep the stock one in there.
-No stock oil cooler, but somewhere down the line I'm sure I'll have to get one so I'll keep that in mind
-I removed the cruise control in my car so the place I put the speedo cable had to be moved a little bit in order to clear the headers, but you're right the brake lines on the driver's side and the fuel lines on the pass. side are dangerously close to headers. I'm forseeing me replacing both components and relocating them to get around this.
Tim, when you get a chance, please take pictures of your setup when Mufflex is finished with it...I'm not sure where exactly the y-pipe should be located (it's right under the torque arm the way I have it positioned now) and it points to the pass. side a little bit...I think this is correct, but the website doesn't have a whole lotta pictures.
*just to note, the y-pipe is actually a flowmaster piece, the only thing Mufflex really makes is the 2 pipes running from the collectors.
Hooker Super Comps also give you car one hell of a growl if you run them open...granted it's loud as hell, I've enjoyed the ocassional trip to the 7-11 with these bad boys. Once I put the y-pipe on, it did quiet it down a little, but nowhere near where it needs to be and it also gave it more of a metallic sound...damn people and their whines about loud cars!
if harley's can burn up the streets with open headers why can't camaro's?
if harley's can burn up the streets with open headers why can't camaro's?
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