i don't get what your trying to say??

i never said my hedmans were equal length...?? the question is clearance issues..... whats the difference as long as they clear??

i mean yea you might get a little more hp and torque, but not enough to pay 100 more......

the main thing is i can't figure out where the hedmans are having the clearence issues explained above?? he says they don't come down low enough so he had to run his exhaust where he did, but every pic i have seen shows that 20$ could have fixed the problem..... so whats the deal to everyone??

are they worth the 100 or should someone spend 100 more and buy hookers??

from everything i have seen, hedmans are good if not better than hookers all the way down to price wise......

 

I just looked at them and it doesnt look like the hookers are equal length either. I was wrong. Oh, well. Anyway, from what I have seen the hookers are better than the headmans, just more expensive.

Ben.

 

I'll just say from experience, that with headers you usually get what ya pay for, alot like other things in life. Hooker has always put more time into R&D than "most" other companies. They do offer a cheaper line of headers that might experience some of the same problems as the cheaper brands, but for the real deal the super comps are the only way to go. The Heddman do have good their good traits as well, the shop that did the install were, should we say in laymans terms-just plain stupid. And like I said I paid for the material, but not the labor and dropped them as a sponsor. I never realized Heddman made an S tube to correct this problem, had I known, I would've boughten them to get rid of the headache and embarassment of my current set-up. As I stated above, I put my time and effort into the motor/tranny this year. This winter, new interior and new paint, then new rims and tires. And last but not least...the exhaust will be re-worked after all is said and done. The headers/mufflers I have work, cause as stated above, I saw no difference uncorked or with full exhaust-I guess my combo likes a little back pressure, but the header install is not a drop right in like one would hope and i think that's already been well established here.

 

that pic looks pretty good. Doesnt look like clearance is any worse than the hookers...my question is HOW in the heck do you install these things? I tried to get them in while dropping the motor in...no way that would fit...maybe sit the headers in the position they would be in then bolt them up?

BTW whos car is that i have a few qeustions for him.

 

From what I have read, you have to put them in from the bottom. You could also put them in place and lower the motor between them and bolt them in which is what I plan on doing with my hookers.

Ben

 

i forget whos that was....... i think he is in a hedman post in the aftermarket products thread.......

i also was thinking they come down low enough as the hookers... at least they look as if they do...... either way the s tubes will fix any discrepencies.....

 

yeah i already have the hedman headers painted and i have the s bends, crossover and everything so im just gonna try to get them in and see what happens. I dont wanna go through the hassle of sending everything back to jegs and waiting even longer to be able to put my motor in. Plus im broke now...no money for hooker headers.

 

I think that the headmans with the s pipe should work good, but in that pic, it almost looks like the crossmember is modified so that he could run it straight back. I dont think you could run them straight back with the headmans without doing something to the crossmember.

Ben

 

in reguard to the pic that badgta posted....
yes his headers are i have exactly what he did saved and this is what he did

go here to see some pics of my system. pic 0011 shows the lowest point. thats a drop light under the lowest point while the car is sitting on the ground. thats about 5" I think. I now have bullet mufflers instead of the cheapy turbo mufflers. yes, they are ALOT louder. I didnt use spipes, I took the reducers that came w/my hedman headers, only used the flange portion. then I had some 2.5k" pipes expanded to fit the inside of the flanges and then bolted the flanges to the headers loosely. slipped the expanded ends of the pipe into the flange/collectors and pointed the pipe under the tranny crossmember. so instead of it being bent, it is welded in at an angle. then, I cut it off under the crossmember at a right angle to the ground (pretty much same angle as collectors). then the exh. shop bent the pipes a little to
match from the mufflers to there. I also dented the pipe alittle directly under the crossmember so I could tuck the pipes as close to the floors as possible. for the hangers I drilled a hole on ea. side behind/under the rear seat and installed a bolt about 1.5" long and a nut on the outside of the floorpan. this is the stud I use to bolt the straps/hangers to. it makes it real easy to removbe the exh. for what ever reason. just unbolt the collectors and sit the collectors on the ground. then move to the back and undo the nut from ea. side of the hanger.
as for the susp. on my car, its the stock Iroc springs allaround and I have removed alot of weight from the car. removed the A/C, power steering, front swaybar, and ofcourse all the emisions crap. I have alum. heads and waterpump w/an LT1 starter(note: I used a small diam. flexplate from summit and it bolted right up)

as u read he didnt use "S extentions" he welded the pipe on a upward angle and dimpled the pipe around the crossmemeber...

heres the link to his page
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/irocss86/...xhaust&.view=t

 

ohh and the pics will be soon...i sent them to get developed

 

I will also get some pictures of the setup im gonna run if i ever get the car running again. When they have it in the air at the shop I will snap a few shots. hopefully ill be able to get the exhaust put on next monday...depends on my motor situation. if i get it in today then i should have pics by tuesday.

 

wait a second "stands back a second and thinks back to a post"

i thought you said even with s extensions it's still wouldn't work???

but it will with them now???

have i understood you correctly?

 

I didnt say that. From what i can tell they should work fine with the S bends. I havent got them bolted up yet but i have them in place at it looks like the S bends should solve the problems...BTW they slip in very easy if you just raised each side of the motor. Not bad at all actually and for 100$ they look like a real good quailty headers.

 

but yous up ***** creek without a paddle if u cant lift the motor..or dont have the money to pay somone to do it

 

Hold up a second.....

your saying you can't feed them in through the bottom??? say if the car was in the air on a lift??

 

i dont know I didnt try just slipping them in. drivers side will probably go right in but im not sure about the pass side. I sat the headers in the location they would be then dropped the motor inbetween them.

all you need to lift the motor is a floorjack under the oil pan (with a board on it of course.) you dont have to have a cherry picker or anything

BTW you have to paint these headers...out of the box the paint was flaking. half my paint came off as I touched it or scratching it up putting them in...even the aftermarket paint doesnt stick very well.

 

well the shipping paint was not ment to say on. And to help the new paint use a scuff pad and clean them with some wax & grease remover before spraying them. Trust me it will help.

 

i used some type of paint stripper from advance...worked really well but damn it hurts when you get it on your hand. feels like your skin is boiling...anyways i painted them but during the installation process alot of it rubbed off or got scratched off. Hopefully the car will be running by next week so i can get the exhaust done and everything then i will get back to everyone about the setup/.

 

and if u dont have a jack?.....your still screwed
well i have a jack but its 636 miles away...i wonder how much shippin would be on that
here in new york even if i had my jack here i still wouldnt be able to do it on the street...theres just to much traffic and people dont pay attention....what about runnin the dual pipes fromt he manifolds for now and then cuttin 12 dollars worth of pipe off when i get the headers?

damn this post is stayin at the top aint it lol....

 

actually you can feed them in from the bottom if you jack it up REAL high and take out the starter. I had to do that today. BTW i would recomend picking up a LT1 starter because they are much much smaller and lighter. These headers could be installed from underneath with a lt1 starter installed. not with our bigass starters tho.