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finished head/cat back install

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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 11:13 PM
  #1  
jcsws6's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX
finished head/cat back install

Well I finished installing, edelbrock tes headers, catco cat, and flowmaster catback on my GTA. The difference this made was crazy, its like a whole new car. I bought the universal cat and was worried about the fit, but all you need is a 6 inch piece of three inch tubing and it will slip right on. The flowmaster is pretty loud in the car but I think I can get use to it. Also went and bought a high flow air filter (made a cold air) and that made a noticable difference as well. My car revs so much faster now it crazy Still not a LS1 but with head/cam coming soon I think I'll get there.
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 11:33 PM
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nikh23's Avatar
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From: Caldwell, NJ
Car: 88 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Raptor 700
did you do the install it yourself? if so how was it? and got any pics????
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 03:24 AM
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From: San Antonio, TX
did it all my self, took 3 days (and I've done it before). PITA for sure, but was well worth it. My advice is Driverside pull the valve cover and it will fall right on (from top). Pass side (I have AC and air) pull all of the starter, air lines, pull the back two plugs and the water temp sensor push up through the bottom. The biggest PITA for me was getting the y pipe bolted down tight enough, one of the bolts is right above the tubes It would have took me two days but I did a high flow cat and a cat-back at the same time. sorry no pics to filthy to touch my new camera
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 08:37 AM
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Mark A Shields's Avatar
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Glad to hear you're happy.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 10:20 AM
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From: Atlanta,Ga.
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
head install

JCS Did you any clearance issues with right side header? My son is installing my Edelbrocks on the 87 350 and cannot seem to be able to get the header to clear the frame on the right side. Drivers side installed with 3/8 inch clearance to brake line. Was this an problem for you, did you have tweak the frame rail or anything? I need some help,please, as he thinks the only recourse is to put the mannifolds back on. Please tell me it isn't so. Thanks, Dave.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 10:30 AM
  #6  
Mark A Shields's Avatar
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Make sure the spark plugs are out on the driver side, this should give you the clearance you need. Did for me, to pull them out I had to take out the plugs.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 02:28 PM
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From: San Antonio, TX
on the right side go in from the bottom and go at about a 75 degree angle to the car pushing forward and up. You should be able to get it in without much hasle. If not you've already taken out everything that can break. So give it h@ll
good luck
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 02:40 PM
  #8  
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From: Atlanta,Ga.
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
head.

I guess I wasn't very clear in that the right side header flange is right on a brake line with the header almost in place. Were your headers close to the brake lines and if so what clearance did you have, as I think 3/8 is really too close for the left side and no clearance at all on the right side sucks. Did you have modiffy anything? HELP, Dave.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 06:09 PM
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From: San Antonio, TX
1 primary comes about a inch from the brake line. If you take the plam of you hand you can bend them back without hurting them. Other than bending the lines back a little no other mods had to be made.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 06:45 PM
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From: Ocean State, lil Rhody, the biggest littlest state in the union, Rhode Island
Car: 1988 GTA Black/Gray
Engine: Blown 355
Transmission: 700R4
ok, this always gets confusing when we talk left and right. The left side is the driver's side that is where the brake lines are. Let's talk driver's side and passenger side to avoid confusion. I installed my header while engine was out and had a leak on the driver's side header. Tried a new gasket but the #5 primary just wasn't sealing. You could actually see the gap between the head and the header. I had remove the header to send it to machine shop and this is what I found to be the easiest way.

mark and disconnect plug wires
remove plugs
Leave the O2 sensor out of header
Remove 11/16 nut from engine mount while holding 5/8 head on the bolt.
Pull engine mount bolt out of mount
Place a 2X4 or equivelant on top of a hydraulic jack and jack up the oil pan to lift the driver's side of the engine up.
You should have plenty of room to position header to install.

The other problem I have on the driver's side is the steering column.
It is hitting the header. Instead of dimpling the header I am going to remove the section of column and grind some of it off to make the steering rod a little narrower. I don't need much clearance but right nowit is rubbing when wheel is turned. I also highly recommend Accel header U-groove spark plugs. They are shorter than stock plugs and give you more clearance to get plug wires on/off of plugs and eliminate burnt wire boots. The brake lines can be bent out of the way and repostioned. Hope this helps.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 06:57 PM
  #11  
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From: San Antonio, TX
I was unable to pull my steering shaft, so I just pulled the valve cover and the header just fell in. Mine are 1 5/8 though 1 3/4 may be tighter.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 08:51 PM
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From: Ocean State, lil Rhody, the biggest littlest state in the union, Rhode Island
Car: 1988 GTA Black/Gray
Engine: Blown 355
Transmission: 700R4
:lala: Job well done!
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