I just removed my A.I.R. system and I was wondering if I will get any check engine soon lights because of the two sensor wires that I unpluged . And also what can I do woth these wires??



Thanks

 

If you're referring to the two plugs that go into the diverter valve, you don't have to worry about an SES light. Just move them out of the way and away from heat. You never know if you'll need them again.

 

You may get an occasional code 32, but it's nothing to loose sleep over.

You can do a search on code 32 or I can sum it up for ya......
If you're cruising down the road at a constant speed (usually 55 MPH or more) for any length of time (about 5 minutes or more) the SES light will come on. IIRC, the O2 sensor got to cool and the ECM blames it on the EGR.

That's a guestimate. I don't remember exactly the cause. It happened to me once and hasn't happened since.

AJ

 

this might seem stupid but i gotta ask the A.I.R. system are those tubes on the exaust manifolds, that funky little box on the pasangers side and the air pump wit the rest of the accesories right???

 

yup, that's what it is.

 

so if thats what that sh*t is then how do i go about removing the air pump does someone make a kit or something home made that i can use to keep the stock belts etc (by the way my car is a 1LE A/C delete car allready)

 

Actually, you can remove everything except the pump. The only real reason everyone removes theirs is for one of two reasons. Either to make the engine bay less cluttered, or because the pump went bad and they're too cheap to replace it.

There is little, if any gain in RWHP from taking it off. I almost left my pump on there, but I didn't.

There's a tech article about the re-routing of the belt. You'll find it under FAQ in the home page at *drum roll* www.THIRDGEN.org

AJ

 

thanx tons but i didn't c the tech artical

 

I'm sorry. It's not under the FAQ.

Here it is...... It's under " Miscellaneous Modifications" in the "Technical Articles"

Just Click Here ------->"How to Remove Your Smog Pump From Your Serpentine Belt Equipped Third Gen."

AJ

 

thanx allot man thats great but do u or anyone else know if it will work on a A/C delete car???

 

As long as the A/C delete pulley is there I don't see why it wouldn't work.

And like I said, you don't "have" to remove the AIR pump itself. Just leave it there if you like. The black pipe that comes out the back just unbolts from it. It'll still pump air, but just back into the air and not the engine.

AJ

 

This should never happen.
The only time an 02 sensor gets too cold is at idle or placement is too far down the exhaust pipes. At cruise speed the o2 is hottest because ehaust temps will be in the 1000-1500 range.
So no, there should never be a code set by air removal unless the sensor is too far away.

 

`I dont have the AC compressor or smog pump on my pass side bracket. I used the stock belt routing and just put a shorter belt overtop of the tensioner...

 

First off I said that I wasn't 100% sure on what caused it.

Second...... why is it that I've read about 40 people on here having the same problem? And I never got Code 32 until I pulled the AIR off?

Maybe I'm wrong on the process that causes Code 32, but I know that pulling my AIR off is what caused it as well as the 40+ others that have posted about it.

Do a search and you'll see what I'm talking about.

AJ

 

Yes they get a code 32 EGR but it's still a mystery. I just did a search and not I wonder if unhooking AIR = clogged EGR. This would account for the ocational problems. In open loop first start the air works to burn off the rich AFR and in turn heat up the o2 sensor and cat. I really wish I knew what the problem is but I don't have EGR and NON of my friends with smog delete have gotten a code 32 and I don't see a direct "air delete now code 32". If there is I wouldn't be suprised but I still think AIR should have direct effect on causing a code 43.
Maybe my friends are getting an SES light and aren't tell me....
Oh well, I'm just glad I don't have EGR, no AIR and I still pass NJ emissions .

 

I read that the ecm looks for a pressure or temp change in the intake to show that the egr is working, if it's not then the 32 shows up. This happens to me every single time I go for a long drive. I just hooked my ses light up to a switch and now I don't have to look at it, but I can still check my codes if I want to.

 

The ECM pays attention to a thermal switch on the egr valve to test for flow. When commanded open, the ECM expects the temp switch to let it know that hot gases are flowing. If not, sets a code.

I removed the AIR system from my car (88 Formula 350) and have had no problems at all. I regularly drive the car from home to Cleveland (160 miles) and never set a code. It has been like this for several years......

 

Could you post pics and supply details on how and what parts to remove when eliminating the AIR pump.

Thanks in advance.