Heres a question that has been plaguing me for roughly a year now. Scenerio is as follows and Im sure some of you guys had heard from me about it before.

I have a moderately built 406 small block mated to a t5 transmission. It has been instlled into my 92 3.1litre v6 rs camaro body. I have Flow-Techheaders on the block, and a serpintine setup (with reverse flow water pump) off of a 93 caprice Police interceptor. The Y Pipe kit from flowtech dumps to a 3 inch pipe and is mated to 2&1/2 inch back from where the cat "should" be.
The Radiator is a 4 core modine, while not the best, it *should* be adequate. I Have not just 1 or 2 electric fans on CONSTANTLY, but i have 4 FANS constantly running to cool this beast.

The exhaust is my problem i think. From the end of the y pipe back is all 2&1/2 inch pipe, and even the flomaster from the v6 is still on it. Scenerio is it runns bout 180/200 on my autometer mechanical guage in cold weather... and durring mild to hot it runs between 200 - 215 ...

question is would exhaust cause this?


thanks in advance
-Steve 92 rs/ss frankencamaro

 

doubt its the exhaust dude, check other cooling junk

 

why in the world would you put a t5 on a 460?? are you f'n nutz?

 

I would think any overheating problem would be more indicative of a lean condition, rather than an exhaust related problem(though a very efficient exhaust will lean the mixture a bit). Try checking the plugs - any abnormal wear or signs of melting electrodes will be confirmation of this lean condition. If that is the case, you will need to adjust your fuel system. Increase fuel pressure(F.I.) or rejet the carb.

If it is not a lean condition, you will need to do a thorough eval of the cooling system. Start by checking the rad for blocked or bent fins. Then flush the rad and check for any solids in the removed fluid(especially if the rad has ever had any of the gimmicky "stop leak" fluids put into it). Try using "water wetter" when you refill the rad. Consider replacing the 4 fans with 2 larger more efficient fans.

BTW, dumping from a 3" y-pipe into a 2 1/2" intermediate pipe will cause backpressure, forcing more exhaust gases to remain in the cylinder. The result would be incomplete combustion which means lost power and lower combustion temps. So if your exhaust has any effect it would be to lower overall operating temps.

BTW#2, overall temps of 215°F would not be considered excessive for a stock thirdgen on a hot day, however there is room for improvement. Somewhere in the 180 - 200°F range would be the ideal for a small block.

 

who said 460? he said 406

 

Thanks Vorte. Yea.. Its a 406. However ive been through the cooling system 100's of times.. even swapped out the waterpump as well. Radiator once, and even tried 4 bottles of watter wetter. None unfortunately had any effect. the only thing that seems to have helped at all is the addition of the secondary 2 fans in front pushing the air, along with the two in the back pulling it thru the radiator. Kinda odd.

I had heard that somewhere by having too small of an exhaust would cause your car to run hot, due to the fact its got too much backpressure. The analogy that was given to me was to hold your breath and run around teh block... see how much hotter you get that way than by not holding yoru breath. made sence, but what was said above also makes sense. hmm.. any other ideas?

thanks guys for all your help

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

Without knowing the specifics of your engine it would be hard to nail down the exact cause. I suspect a small change may get the temps where you'd want them. Perhaps slightly larger puller fans(two 12" fans would cover 44% more surface area than two 10" fans), using larger fans on the pulled side would improve flow across the rad. Maybe you need to pull out a couple of degrees of advance.

Even driving style can have an effect. For instance, I usually keep the tranny one gear lower than what the auto would normally select. This allows quicker throttle response, more effective engine braking, and keeps the temps nearer to 200°(unless the temps exceed 30°C(86°F) my temperature never would get close to 200°.)

Kind of ironic, I'd like to see higher temps on average, and you're after the exact opposite.

 

Thats the interesting part. I have two 12's on the back of the rad pulling and two 10's in front of the ac condenser pushing... the engine is a 406 smblock chevy, trw forged pistons.. to get the rest of the info visit my club site.. www.groundzerocustoms.org

or for a direct link to my car itself click here.
www.groundzerocustoms.org/http://www.groundzerocustoms.org/otherpgs/vehicles/steves/stevescar.html

as for the timing its set to 18degrees advanced or so i was told by my friend who understands timing. hope that helps. thanks guys..

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro http://www.groundzerocustoms.org/oth...stevescar.html

 

You cannot use a reverse flow water pump on standard flow heads!! Thats your problem. The newer heads have different water passages in them compared to the standard ones. Replace it with a regular SBC pump and it will run cooler.

 

I tried to navigate GroundZero's site to find your car before(arghhh), one of your links finally got me there. The water pump, as you probably already know, is not incorrect for your style of heads(I'm not even sure you can use a LT1/LS1 pump on a conventional sbc as the above poster implies).

If you have the time and/or inclination, building a shroud for the rear fans(sheet metal or glass) would definitely improve flow through the rad while the fans are active.

I'm assuming you have discarded the ECM. Are you monitoring knock at all? How much TOTAL timing advance do you have? Have you tried pulling out any advance(try taking out 2° at a time until you feel a noticeable loss of power)? Have you tried using plugs with a colder range?

Again, at long distance it would be very difficult to nail down the problem, and I am just trying to throw-out some ideas on possible causes(cures).

 

I'm Running a 388 in my 92 and i'm using the stock water pump, mine gets a little warm. I went to a 180 thermostat cause the 160 doesn't give the coolant enough time to cool. About that reverse water pump issue!!!! I have Bowtie heads on mine and am using the reverse water pump. Where did someone get the idea that heads have different water passages?????? In the summer mine gets up to 200 but it doesn't worry me. I have the stock fan grounded out to run all the time.

------------------
White 92 RS,388 cu.in.N/A
3.73 gears,auburn posi
Best 60 ft : 1.97
Best 1/4 : 12.679
all runs made on BFG Radials (NOT DRAG)
Complete Steve Spohn Rear Suspension
Full Custom Dash full of Autometer guages
Extremely Loud Stereo !
Driven Daily

 

See thats what im wondering myself. The engine was perfectly running and VERY cool (never above 160) in another vehicle. A truck in fact. The things that were changed from the truck to the camaro was a more agressive cam, (not much but a little bit) a new holley 750vac sec carb, exhaust pipe being 2.5 single tube after y instead of duals on the truck, and the belt setup. In the truck it was totally v belt setup.

the engine guy that installed it said that it should work without a problem, but i dunno so much now. It was done by a professional shop here in sc by the owner, whom has a reputation of really knowing his sheet when it comes to chevy small blocks.

The pump does concern me though, as I had wanted to keep the serpentine setup, but if i understand correctly i cant keep the setup without the reverse flow pump.

does anyone know if i can use a standard flow pump with a serpentine setup off a 93 caprice?

thanks for your help!

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro http://www.groundzerocustoms.org/oth...stevescar.html

 

Sorry about the inconvienence of the page.. for those that dont use my direct link, just click on members and then im the top one listed.

as for the ecm.. the computer has been gutted basically.. It is only there to run the guages and the fuel pump the temps that i quoted though were not from the factory guage but from the autometer on my pillar which is directly into the head on the driver side. I am not sure about knock monitoring due to the guy that keeps working on it. Im not sure if the car is lean or rich either. however i think its rich due to the smell of its exhaust when its running. from what the mechanic says its running at 18degrees total timing i belive. but i dunno as i dont understand timing very much.. well the plugs are something else im wondering about. I havent checked them all but i didnt like the look of one of them. If i can ill try to get a photo of one of them up on here soon.

I do appreciate the input though 88Iroc... i just wish i knew much more about it.

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro http://www.groundzerocustoms.org/oth...stevescar.html

 

Slush,
well my thermo is 160.. perhaps thats the problem? about the heads and stock pump, well since my car was a 6 cyl 92 rs ive ran in to lots of problems and in fact ive ran into so many its hard to remember what i ahve done and what i havent done anyways.. I do appreciate teh help, and please keep those ideas coming.

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro http://www.groundzerocustoms.org/oth...stevescar.html

 

I think we have a mix-up of terminology here. Purple 92 SS does not have a reverse flow water pump, but a reverse -direction- water pump, which is for the serpentine belt setup that he's using. So you do have a standard flow (not the LT1-type reverse flow) pump, but it is the reverse direction type. The temperature rating of the thermostat has nothing to do with giving the coolant enough time to cool the engine; that's a function of the radiator (which appears to be more than sufficient), the water pump, and any restrictors or restrictions in the cooling system.

As far as the timing, is the total timing 18 degrees, or is just the base timing (set at the distributor) 18 degrees? If that's the total timing, then it's retarded way too far, causing the combustion to occur in the exhaust ports and the headers. If that's the base timing, then it's too advanced and you're probably getting knock (which also heats up the coolant).

To answer your original question, the small exhaust piping might cause it to run a little hot, but I'd look elsewhere first. 88IROCs was on the right track about making sure it's not running lean and checking the radiator and the rest of the cooling sytem. I also agree that the temps you mention aren't -that- bad for a 406 or any other SBC...

------------------
Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

 

My comment about the 160 to 180 thermostat was that, with my 160, the engine would heat up so quickly that when the thermo. opened it would be getting fliud that didn't really get a chance to cool down. I know the engine isn't supposed to be cooling it, that is the radiator's job. With a 180 installed the fluid would be cooled more before the thermo. has a chance to open. I hope i clarified that point.

------------------
White 92 RS,388 cu.in.N/A
3.73 gears,auburn posi
Best 60 ft : 1.97
Best 1/4 : 12.679
all runs made on BFG Radials (NOT DRAG)
Complete Steve Spohn Rear Suspension
Full Custom Dash full of Autometer guages
Extremely Loud Stereo !
Driven Daily

 

Has anyone mentioned that a 400 SBC has siameesed bores and will always ALWAYS run about 10-15 degrees hotter than other SBC's. Oh and make sure your fans are both moving air through the radiator not fighting each other. Check your wiring very carefully.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

 

I have heard that it will run a bit hotter, but not much.. and 210 seems high to me in cool weather. Ive checked and double checked the fan wireing 100's of times.. unfortunately its right;... thats why i was led to belive that it could be the exhaust being to small. I dont remmeber if i said it before, but a friend made this analogy to me before, hold your breath, and run around the block , see how hot you get compared to when you run around the block when you dont hold your breath.

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

This may seem overly obvious, but I thought I would mention it anyways. 400 blocks do not have coolant passages between the siamesed bores but they do have steam holes. You need to tap the heads to match the locations of the steam holes in the block(use a 400 SBC head gasket to mark the correct locations). If this has not been done, your engine will definitely be overheating. Check with your engine builder to see what mods he did to the heads before installing them.

Btw, used to be that a lot of engine builders overlooked this step(due to thier unfamiliarity with this block) and as a consequence the 400 blocks gained an undeserved reputation for overheating.

Also, 18&deg; sounds like your initial advance(your engine would probably die above 1500 rpm if this was your total advance). 18&deg; sounds like a [b]LOT</u> of initial(unless you are running very high compression - unlikely with cast-iron heads). You should be aiming for about 34 - 38&deg; of total advance, and I kind of suspect you may have 40+&deg;.

 

I'm going to throw a couple of ideas out that noone has mentioned yet. Have you looked at the plastic air dam under the front of the car. If it's damaged, replace it. It's a key part in 3rd and 4th gen f-body cooling systems. A GM replacement is about $20. Last summer, I went through the cooling system dillema on my 350. After replacing the radiator, fans, water pump, and thermostat, it still ran hot. I finally looked at my air dam. Mine was broken and bent. After replacing it, my temps dropped from 215 to 200 in 115 degree Texas heat. If yours is damaged, this will help feed more air through the radiator, which should help while moving. Also, try fabbing up a ram air system for your car. Bringing in cold air should help power and should lower engine temps some.

 

Mccon,

thanks for the input, i do have the air dam under the car.. it is bent a little, but nothing serious do you think that this would cause a problem?
as for ram air, im using a carbed system, with the ASCD SS style hood which basically dumps the air right into the carb filter and thus into carb. I had felt it was sufficient... but maybe its not???

thanks for the info though.. i still wonder if maybe the headers / exhaust is the problem though.

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro
www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

Well i checked with the builder and he says that he is 100000% positive the heads are drilled to match.. timing boggles me.. I want to take car to someeone locally who knows gms better for a second opinion but i dont know anyone in the Columbia sc area. :*(

oh well..
-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro

 

Sounds like your air dam is fine and shouldn't be a problem. The hood should also give all the benefits of a ram air system. Just thought I'd throw a different viewpoint out there. Good luck solving your problem. When you figure it out, let us know. Sometimes you just have to be creative and I'm sure most of us could use some new cooling tips. Cooling systems in pass cars and trucks are severely compromised to begin with due to space limitations. When you start making serious power, a lot of heat is an unavoidable byproduct which requires some creative thinking to fight. Look under the hood of a semi and look at the radiator to see what it really takes to cool a 400ci engine.

 

Have you checked the thermostat?

We had the same problem in our dirt track race car with a 406. This car only had a aluminum Radiator, one fan bolted to the motor, tap water in the radiator. It kept getting hot on us, all we did was keep the radiator clean, and put a washer in place of the thermostate. No more prob's.

While you may not want to do away with the thermostate, one that opens at a lower temp, might be a good idea.

 

I had origionally checked the thermo and was running the car with only water as well.. didnt make a difference when i switched to no thermo with water only, so i put thermo back in and put proper mixture of afreeze and water and thermo. No difference either, changed again to no thermo with proper mixture, no change. So put restricters in instead of thermo, still no change. took restricters out, put in 1, 2,3, and then eventually 4 bottles of watter wetter and still no change with the thermo in, or out. Got pissed. flushed system entirely. Put on same 160 thermo, proper mixture of afreeze and water, and installed new mechanical autometer guage pillar pod. While not as bad as dash board guage, it still is up there a bit. just dunno anymore figure cant be cooling system unless its pump or radiator. Forgot to mention changed pump when flushed last time as well. ho hum. thats why when a friend of mine told me that his mechanic (known for being REAL d*mn good with Chevys) gave the analogy of the exhaust. SO i dunno anymore, back to square 1/2? Im just dreading having to go and drive in summer heat down here and worry about overheating. specially since im bout to get painted

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro
406/t5 combo www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

88Irocs, gotta give you credit you are trying like hell man. Wish everyone tried to help people out so hard.
But still no offense, but I gotta jump in on this one.. got some years experience with pseudo-science.
Alrighty first let me state that the 2.5" exhaust is in fact way too small for a 406 cube engine (big area diff between 2.5" and 3"). An overly restrictive exhaust will definately cause a Rich condition as you did point out 88Irocs, BUT can definately cause excessive engine and underhood temps. The excess fuel does still burn, but not in the chamber where the energy is turned to motion... but burns in the exhaust where it makes tons of heat. I also point out that the header tubes (exhaust in general) is a major exit of heat from the heads. When you run that rich (and it would be bad) the heat conjestion will for sure raise the engine temp and the underhood temps.
It is not your timing. You would hear terrible ping way before the timing could cause that much heat. Furthermore, running that rich will allow extra spark advance without any ping because the mix is burning at a slower rate (slowed by the excess fuel).
I have seen this many times and also experienced it myself. My advice is that a 406 will want a single 3.5" exhaust (no tight spots) to be happy and avoid excessive backpressure & resulting rich condition. I have great luck with the stainless SLP headers wrapped in thermotech insulator.. though I am soon doing a TIG weld mod to add 3" collectors and Y to a 3.5" for my 383.
The airdam thing was a great guess too and I run a large airdam that extends several inches below the front spoiler. I have seen the addition of a LOW front spoiler cause overheating problems because it blocked direct flow to the airdam.
I have also seen the addition of a cowl hood cause the same overheating problems. Why? because of the space between the hood and the top of the radiator is open allowing air to bypass the radiator core. Yep I've seen it... swap hood back and problem fixed.
So there you have some more to think about I hope, and there are some other options out there as well. The new Edlebrock Air-gap intake has provisions already there to hook braided lines connecting the front & rear coolant crossovers, or the left-bank/right-bank. Some of the old-tyme rodders that have cooling problems just switch to propylene glycol as a coolant which has very different properties than ethylene glycol and handles more heavy duty cooling issues.

as always, good luck



------------------
White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft pulls 17" vacuum solid. N/A runs 10.9 @124, Crack-runs 10.3 @135... haven't run at track since Oct-99

 

Thank you all so much for all the help. I know alot of the time not enough people thank you guys for your knowledge and time, so thank you guys ALOT.

Odb, I thought it was as well, which is why i want to get a larger one put on this comeing month. What you said about the smaller exhaust making the overly rich situation makes tons of sense because it seems to fit what ive been experenceing. especially for the Ping sound that i do not hear. So i too think that the timing is ok. from up front when the hood is up, belive it or nto the engine seems to be fairly quiet and very smooth idling.

The muffler shop im talking to says they can run a 3" pipe from the Y back to the exuast hang a new exhaust(flowmaster 2 chamber) and run dual chrome 3" tips out from there for around 185.00 complete. Do you think this is a good deal? should i settle for the 3 inch pipe? or should i go larger. I know you said that 3.5 to make it happy but i think this is the largest pipe the shop can get without me ordering that real EXPENSIVE one. And unfortunately $$ is a problem for me due to the fact im trying to fund my wedding this may. (hopefully after that i'll be able to re-deddicate money to the camaro )

I never thought about the hood causing the probelms... although i think it would suck if i had to get rid of it ;*(

The propoline Glycol that yoru talking about is that the same as Dexcool? or equivalant? If so ive considered going to that, but have yet to do so.


thanks again for all your help odb, and 88iroc as well as the rest of you guys who have taken the time to either email or to post here.

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro
406/t5 www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

Steve, you're very welcome.

Sorry to be a downer about the muffler shop, but I think that would be a very poor solution. Even mandrel bent 3" will be a little small for your engine. Considering the pipe-bender than muff-shops use constrict the 3" down to 2.5" or less in the turns then I'd say don't even bother letting them make you anything.
Another issue is that I've had 4 flowmaster mufflers in years past, and I'll never buy another one. They use fixed metal air diverters +chambers in an effort to reduce reversion. Reversion is not your problem here, backpressure is, and flowmasters are very restrictive backpressure-wise. I test exhaust backpressure using a very sensitive liquid-filled pressure gauge that I had to special order. My best results with a muffler have been with a Borla single exit model.. and yes they are expensive.
Sorry but I think the correct solution will cost some money.
As a possible alternative: a local guy here runs an alcohol/blown 502 chevy and says he got some very large pipe (3.5" or 4") at a very cheap price from a distributor that caters to 18-wheelers. If I run into him soon I can ask for more info.
I do know that Torque-Tech makes all the pipe and flared bends that you would need to put together the system yourself using only clamps. I wouldn't say that would be very cheap in the end, but at least you would save labor costs.

If your hood does make a space above your radiator, then you don't have to get rid of the hood. Just simply make a heavy-duty foam type gasket and glue in place so that it makes a decent air-seal when you shut the hood...

Ummm I think the overall solution is to have the brides family pay for the wedding.

I'm not familiar with Dexcool. To confirm what I was talking about go to www.evanscooling.com
- it is a pain to run because it's expensive and you cannot be mixing any water with it.

oh yeah, you never said if your plugs were black & sooty or not?



------------------
*I do custom performance mods on Edlebrock Performer carburetors (dualplane intake mods in the works),
White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, SLP-stainless 1.75" shortie headers & Y-pipe, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft part number 74216 pulls 17" vacuum solid. Cam specs 213/219 @.050 114-LSA, .462/.470 lift @1.5:1 ratio. MSD-6AL, billet distributor, multi-retard, blaster-3 coil, and RPM switch.
N/A runs 10.9 @124,
Crack-runs 10.3 @135
haven't run at track since Oct-99

 

I know its expensive, but how about an aluminum radiator like a BeCool? If you are still running an RS grill you might want to switch to a Z grill with no fog lights to allow for more air flow. As someone said before, 200 doesnt really sound like its running that hot for a 400ci. Plus, have you checked the temp sending unit for your gauge? i know you said its kinda new but it might be jacked. Also check the wire to the gauge cause it might be melted or something. Good luck man.

 

the grill, hood, and airdam only affect operating temperature when you're driving. The thing should stay cool just sitting there idling. That's what leads me to believe the exhaust is the problem.

Of course a cracked head can act similar but you'd notice bubbling in your radiator and usually steam coming out the exhaust eventually. Plus you would feel a drivability problem (usually).

 

Well it heats up at idle thats for sure, but slower than when driving. It also does not steam or bubble at all that ive noticed. I havent noticed any driveability problems at all.

Thanks for the info ODB


-Steve

92 rs/ss frankencamaro www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

88blkiroc,
Thanks for the input, Ive actually thought about the be cool or Griffin radiator solution, but was trying to do the least expensive things first, then move up to more and more $$ I do not have a rs grille anymore, i have the 92 z grilel with aftermarket fogs in place. looks close enough to being real thing to me. do you think the fogs cause that much problem with air movement?

As for the guage, weve checked and doublecheked and tripple checked.. the autometer guage is right, but the dash one is off by round 20 degrees or so.

thanks agin for your help and input.

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

Odb,

Again man thanks for all the help. Its cool about the muffler shop, since your post ive talked to my local parts performance shop and he's lookin into a 4" with a 2 chamber flowmaster to get a round about price quote for me. I agree with the fact that the 3 would be too small, as i had always thought 3.5 would be adequate and 4" ideal.

I dont think i have borla dollars now, but are there any other good alternatives that cost about the same as the flowmaster does? You are probably right aboutthe correct solution costing some money.. Ahwell if only i were a milliongazillionaire.

I dont think that my hood makes any space above my radiator. It all seems to be pretty snug, with no noticable gaps or wobbling when travelling down the road. I am in the process of getting locknig hood pins to assist in the hold down of the hood.. is this a good idea?

you dont have any idea how much i wish the brides family would pay for the wedding ive already got my list of coulda shoulda woulda dones.. like paint, exhaust, new carpet, new doorpanels and interior panels, ahh the list goes on and on...

I checked out that evanscoolign yesterday, you werent kidding when you said pricey. wow.. would hate to go that route, but anythings possible. Dexcool is that red coolant cost bout 7 bucks a gallon and is 100000 mile warrenty stuff they use in the newer vehicles.

as for the plugs, i only pulled the first one on the driver side a few months ago to check them out. it was very very black and kinda crusty/sooty. I'd say there was about 5000 miles on the plug at the time.. I havent done anything with them/about them because i figured it was due to the rich condition of the engine, and was waiting for the exhaust to be replaced. Since i do not drive the car but maybe once a week around the block i figured it was ok to leave them until i ironned out the exhaust / rich problem.

hope that helps some odb.

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro
www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

Yep, sooty plugs = exhausts restriction is highly likely the cause.

 

Is that what i should look for if i pull another plug. Maybe i can get a picture of it and post it for yall to see. Ill also post the price of the system that the guy at the parts store is quoting me when i get it..


thanks again oDb

-Steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro
www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

One other thing. Is your filler cover still in its place? This is the plastic piece above the radiator support. It covers the hole between the radiator support assembly and the hood(when closed). A lot of air would probably bypass the radiator and flow over the upper mount(less restrictive than going through the radiator) if this part is missing. I am just speculating here. I have seen guys operating w/o these but they probably are functional rather than cosmetic.

I just looked at your car pictures and the cover is there in the photos so oh well I tried. good luck.
------------------
350 Vortec, forged flat-tops, CompCams XE268, Edlebrock RPM, Holley 3310, TH350 w/Holeshot 2400, 3.23 posi, Heddman shorties, HEI

[This message has been edited by ERIC'86IROC (edited February 07, 2001).]

 

Hey all, heres an update.

Got larger exhaust. 3.5 inch pipe. Wasnt able to go with the price of a 4 and got a great deal on this one. Noticabley the sound is much deeper, andd so is the rich smel of the exhaust. It doesnt smell as rich at all. Im very pleased.. i will let you guys know what the temps look like as soon as i see them..

thanks for all yalls help.

-steve
92 rs/ss frankencamaro
406/t5
www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

I just now went to your site. Now I'm wondering about a few things that I saw. Did you lower your car any? and have you tried another carb or testing yours for internal fuel leaks? I'm just wondering since you had such a strong fuel odor before. Also what is your initial timing set at? and do you also run vacuum advance at idle? I should've asked all that before & don't know why I didn't.
I hope the exhaust makes a big enough difference, but if not at least you can get the A/F tuned in much closer which will make things much easier.

 

I am not too sure with the carb stuff.. havnet tried any of the carb stuff at all.. I know its timing is set at 18* advanced at the distributer. dunno what it is otherwise. The exhaust seems to ake a difference but tonight it was up to 200* so im wondering if it really did all that much.. I do have to admit i think it sound smuch much better and smells much much better too.. As for lowering yes. Car has been lowered an inch and 1/2 all around. but the cooling issues existed before the lowering. Also, Noticed that it was cooling down while sitting still.. where as before it wouldnt .. hmm.. just more thoughts on it.. I dont even know if its related to the exhaust now.

-Steve
92 rs / ss frankencamaro
406/t5
www.groundzerocustoms.org

 

There are many posts so i bet you have your answer by now, but to rid of a little heat try some exhaust wrap around your headers. That big motor makes tons o' heat and those headers are the first to heat up your engine bay. The wrap helps keep the heat out of the engine bay and can really reduce under hood temps. Just a thought and it is only 30 bucks or so.

 

Worth a try to borrow another carb and test for a night to rule that out completely.
Was your vacuum advance unhooked to get that 18 degrees initial?
How many inches does your airdam extend below the front spoiler? I know the airdams from older F-bodies (that used mechanical fans) were much smaller than the newer ones.

Also, have you tried another 160 thermostat yet?
I'm wondering how new the waterpump is and if you tried another one yet?
I do agree with the header-wrap idea, and wonder if you have any exhaust leaks around the flanges?

Still thinking about this one


[This message has been edited by The ODB (edited February 15, 2001).]