At the base near the header tube or at the end cap? I want it to look purty and I already paid for jethot...

 

Choice #1 if you can get the right size and thread brass plugs, you should cap it on the headers. that way, exaust isn't going up into the A.I.R. tubes. That is assuming the Hookers have scew in A.I.R tubes.

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'92 RS Heritage Pkg, 305TBI,automatic... CURRENT MODS..Melling 207:214 roller camshaft, Large snorkle air cleaner w/ K&N filter, Injector spacer, ACCEL super coil, Taylor wires,power pulleys, 6* timing advance, flowmaster catback exaust, hollow cat, '95 Z28 exaust tips, P245/50/ZR16 tires, Edelbrock strut tower brace, Edelbrock panhard rod, frt & rear urethane swaybar end links, urethane sway bar bushings, subframe connectors, urethane track bar bushing, KYB shocks, F41 factory performance handling package,Z28 tranny centrifical governor, and more to come soon!

 

Forgot to mention it will look alot better too! However if you live somewhere that inspection is a problem, then the other choice would be better is you ever had to hook them back up every now and then to get a sticker. otherwise, you may have been better off to buy the header with out A.I.R

 

Too late now unfortunately, it would cost $300 extra to get the headers without air... I will have to try to find the correct size, anyone know what size it would be btw?

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84 stock Z-28 V8 305 H.O.
1/8 10.328@66.06
1/4 16.246@80.82 phear!

 

Which headers are those? How much did you pay for them? and where? Thanks. I need the AIR tubes for inspection.

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87 TA, 305 TPI, Custom CAI, K&N, ACCEL 8mm wires,ACCEL Super-coil, ACCEL Plugs, JET TPI Airfoil, Cherry Bomb Muffler, 160* thermostat
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I paid close to $500 shipped for the Hooker 2052s (I think that's the PN) but you can get them for like 250 or so if you don't care about coating and like that ugly rust look :-P

 

You can't cap them at #1 - they're welded in, not screwed in. You could cut & crimp (or weld over) there, but that's it.

The cap you need for #2 is 1/2" NPT. I've got mine capped there right now until I can get some new check valves so I can be "legal" (gee, I only have until Nov '03 until I have to get it tested again - I'd better hurry!).

I paid ~$325 including shipping for mine (the correct p/n is 2055) from Summit during their 10% sale this spring. I haven't seen anyone with that particular p/n for less. At the same time, I got two cans of their DEI 1500 degree paint (it actually only took one). Stripped the black paint off, painted & baked before installing. They aren't turning brown.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
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[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited December 04, 2001).]

 

So like do I have to have it welded on or does it just screw on no problem without risk of it, you know, exploding off... I was going to cut and cap at the #1 point, wasn't sure if crimping was an option. I wanted to get rid of them completely but I guess that's not an option.
For my 84 the p/n was 2052 on the header though I double checked, super comp shorties with the Y pipe. I guess I'll just wait to cut off the air til I get myself some hooker 1 3/4 long tubes at some point, then sell these off. They still are really shiny and pretty I guess a crappy end cap won't look TOO bad... I guess...

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84 stock Z-28 V8 305 H.O.
1/8 10.328@66.06
1/4 16.246@80.82 phear!

 

Is this the part that I need? 1/2 Hose plug
It looks about right...

 

Ah, 2052's have the puny y-pipe (sorry, couldn't resist - haven't heard of anyone who actually used those).

No, those caps are for AN flare-type connections. I just used a couple of brass caps (one piece) from Ace. I wrapped the threads with Teflon tape because I plan on these things coming off some day. Only a few hundred miles, but they haven't leaked or threatened to blow off yet.

By the way, -12 is 3/8" - sizes are by 32nds of an inch, so -12 is 12/32", or 3/8".

[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited December 04, 2001).]

 

And you don't pick the NPT size by measuring the threads.

 

If you choose to plug the holes, be sure to use the extreme temp loctite. I had my headers pluged at position 1, and one plug blew out in a years time. I took all plugs out and recoated with the loctite (red, I believe) and never a problem again. Its runs about $5 per mini tube, but well worth the money and hassle.