Hey guys whats up? I'm a newbie at all this and you all have been a great help so far. Thanks...Now to my question: I have a 3in flowmaster with a free flow cat. It sounds awsome. The problem is that i think its too quiet. I'm going to buy SLP 1 5/8 headers and was wondering how hard it would be to install them? My friend told me he would do the install(for nothing if i let him drive it for a day ) I trust him to get it done and do it right my question is, is it that hard? And It made a huge difference just by adding a flowmaster, do you think that the headers will make that much more of a difference? as for power? and as for sound? Thanks for all the help.

 

I was wondering the same thing. I plan on getting headers soon.

 

Well, I just installed a set of SLPs with AIR, and while it was sometimes challenging, I've done harder things. It's really more time consuming than difficult. Just pay attention to details, try to be careful not to create things to fix, and give yourself plenty of time.
As far as performance and sound, I'm still running the stock I-pipe, (I'm not a wealthy man ) and I noticed a slight difference in sound and a worthwhile performance gain. Once I get a better cat back on it, I figure I'll see the true advantage of headers.
Do the headers - you won't be sorry.

 

Just a quick question, but did you have to pull the motor to get the headers on? I was just wondering cause i know on some cars it isn't always needed? When we do the install I'm giveing it a weekend so i think that should be good. He said he could get it done in a day, but if i give him 2 then he is positive it'll get done. Thanks for the help

 

No. You do not need to pull the motor. I have not done this yet myself, but from reading this forum for so long now, I've read about this topic quite a bit. The only problem that some people seem to have is with the driver side motor mount sitting a little low and causing some clearance issues with the steering column, but even then, I think that's with the 1 3/4" inch headers.

I'm sure someone can chime in here who's done this before.....

 

No, I didn't need to pull the motor. I did need to unbolt the motor mounts and jack it up to get the driver side header in.
You need to remove the AIR, (if you have it) plugs/wires, dipstick, fan switch, basically anything attached to the side of the engine.
All told, I probably have close to three days in mine, but I have something else to drive, so I could afford to take my time.

 

Abubaca - Thanks
LastViceRS - Are you installing 1 5/8 or 1 3/4? coated or uncoated? I'm just wondering.

See the problem is that i go to school full time and when I'm not in school i'm working. So i have weekends and thats about it. lol it sucks to still be in school. Thanks fo the help...i definatly didn't wanna have to pull the motor, but we well just have to see. Thanks

 

jroon,
Actually I ordered the 1-5/8", but ended up getting the 1-3/4". I didn't realize it until I had already had them Jet-Hot coated and was installing them. When the #2 primary contacted the steering shaft I started getting suspicious and got my calipers out. Sure enough, they measured 1-3/4'. Funny, I did check the part number on the box when I got them, it was correct for the 1-5/8". Oh, well - they're mine now...
If you decide to do this on a weekend, I'd say try to have everything in order. Workspace, tools, all parts, maybe some help. It probably can be done faster than I did it, but I was working alone, as usual. Also, I had several interruptions and other responsibilities demanding my time. So, if you can lock the garage door behind you, you MIGHT pull this off over a weekend. But I guarantee nothing. Hope this helps.
Oh yeah - I've driven it a little more now, and I notice that at part throttle it's NOTICEABLY louder and more distinct. I can hear each exhaust pulse more clearly now.

 

Yeah when its time to do it, its going to be me and my buddy(hes a mechanic for firetrucks) do the work in a private garage so it'ljust be us all weekend. Did you install the catback already? I'm just wondering now because in the next year i'm going to be going from a 305 to a 350 tpi so the 1 3/4 would be better. Did you have any problems going from the headers into the stock cat? I was just wondering if it gave you any problems like that. Thanks again for all your help

 

Actually, I had a 3" cat laying around from a past project, so I put it on. And no, I haven't done the catback yet, because I'm out of money for now So, I'm running what was on the car when I bought it - stock I-pipe, no muffler, split into two tailpipes with tips. It's a bit louder than I prefer at times, and I'm not sure I'm going to get away with it forever. I'm really mellow when I see a cop nearby now.

 

i guess i'll have to get down and check the size of my cat...i just bought the car and the exhaust was done just before i bought it so i'm not sure if its a 3in or not... i know the actual tail pipes are just 2.5 so i don't think the cat would be a 3in, but I'll have to see....Thanks for the help...Yeah i know how it can be with cops, my buddy has a 96 TA with and LS1 and his exhaust ends at the headers!!! He's got SLP headers and thats it...the car is so loud that even at like 900RMP's he is louder than my car at a redline. Thats always trouble Thanks for the help though.

 

it took me 3 days but i didnt had the hardware and had to run to the parts store every now and then plus stops at MC

 

it took me 3 days but i didnt had the hardware and had to run to the parts store every now and then plus stops at MC DONALDS

 

That doesn't sound too bad, but now that i look at the SLP install kit they Cat adapter looks like it has to be welded on and i don't wanna mess with that so if it does then i guess I'll just take it somewhere and have them installed...the local Merlin muffler shop told me it would take like 5 hours so about $350.00. Does that sound about right? I just don't wanna get ripped. Thanks again everyone

 

I got mine used, so I don't know about the cat adapter kit. Something that may help you out though is some 3" stainless band clamps. If I were you, not having done an install before, I'd try to plan it for a 3 day weekend just in case. Can easily be done in less time, but you know, something always goes wrong (i.e. I break stuff).

 

Hope you guys can use the following info:

I'm in the process of installing 1 3/4" headers with AIR and I got the driver's side in today. It took me about 30-45 minutes after I got the Y-pipe off, manifold out, and got the header on. I didn't raise the motor at all, but I did install new poly motor mounts this time last year so they gave me a little extra height. The only parts I removed (again, driver's side) were the #3, 5, and 7 plugs, and I unbolted the steering shaft (one 15mm nut/bolt) near the firewall to let me move it around a bit for more clearance. After that, it was just a matter of carefully lowering it into place and trying not to scratch the Jet Hot coating. Not too bad a job. Again, just go slow and don't get pissed or in a hurry...you'll screw something up.

As far as the install kit goes, read this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=175205

It's just an option to the SLP kit, that's all. I found out that if you wish to replace the little brackets that hold your alternator and brace your steering pump, you'll need to reuse the manifold bolt on #1. All other bolts can be replaced with "new" ones. The SLP install kit only gives you 8 header bolts 'cause they expect you to reuse the longer manifold bolts as I described above. I am not scraping the steering shaft which seems to be everyone else's big problem, but I did have to bend and move the brake lines coming off the bottom of the prop valve. They were hitting the header in 2 or 3 places. I have about 1/4-3/8" clearance between the header and the steering shaft.

Also, the SLP cat adapter is a slip fit so no welding is needed there unless you just want to. The cat adapter pictured in the link is also a slip fit and ran me around $10-15 at a local shop. And DEFINITELY get the band clamps...more info in the above thread.


I'll probably get the passenger side in before the weekend but I don't know if I will, got other things to do...like get the cat out of the Y-pipe



HTH...Ed

 

I can probably do a header install in under an hour. Ive done it that many times. The hardest part about getting the factory manifolds off is the tabs on the bolts. On the very front and very back bolts on both manifolds GM decided to make a tab that folds over the head of the bolt (youll see when you go to do the install). The tab must be bent upward so you can get a socket on the bolt. These are all easy except the back passenger side. Very tight space.

You shouldnt have any problems getting these headers in. I would put the car on a set of ramps and install them from underneath. You shouldnt even have to jack the motor up. Let me know how the SLPs are. Im getting ready to order a set of shorties with a y pipe so I can do away with my dual exhaust.

 

Doing the passenger side soon so I'm asking for a heads up from you guys here:

Is it gonna help me if I drop the starter on the passenger side install or can I leave it in?

Thanks...Ed

 

Ed,

I can't believe how easily my passenger side header dropped in. I had a lot more trouble getting the manifold out.
I removed the plugs, fan switch, dipstick tube, and of course the AIR. After that, it quite literally fell in place from the top. I believe you should end up much the same.

 

Really guys...i can't stress this enough...THANKS!!! I'm actually going to try to attempt this myself...After all the help you guys have given it should be no prob. Once they get here and i put em in i will post some pics and let you all know how it turns out...thanks again for all the help.

Jeff

 

Thanks Vice...that's what I wanted to hear!!

Ed

 

Yep, same as Vice. Mine went in fine from the top.

 

I did finally finish it up last week but I learned a few things along the way. These guys were right, the passenger side practically fell right in, much easier than the driver's side. Here's a little ED-vice for those doing this upgrade anytime soon:


Passenger side:
1. Unbolt the A/C compressor from the serpentine bracket (if equipped) and "slide" it off to either side, you don't have to remove or disconnect it. I actually just slid mine toward the air intake hose.
2. Remove the dipstick tube and starter. This makes the passenger side go much easier and allows you better access to the plugs during reinstall. I could NOT reach # 6 and 8 from the top...impossible.
3. Remove or move some, not all, of the numerous coolant hoses to the side. I only had to undo one coming off the heater diverter thing, and it didn't leak anything at all. I was rather pleased with that.


Driver's side:
1. Unbolt and loosen and/or remove the steering shaft. This gives you a whale of mobility that you do not have when it's in there.
2. Unbolt the master cylinder and also the prop valve from the vacuum booster with just the (2) 15mm nuts holding them on there. This will allow you to move the hard brake lines around and not scratch up your new Jet Hot coating, if equipped....


HTH. I still haven't taken the thing out for a spin!


Ed

 

OK, I finally got her on the road but now I have what seems to be 2 leaks from somewhere, but they don't sound like they are leaks at the header flanges. I changed out the driver's side gasket with the 1406 anyway, but there's still a leak on both sides. I believe it to be at the header to Y-pipe joint. I may not have tightened them there enough, I didn't think you really had to.

So how tight do I go? I guess just tighten until the leak stops huh?


Ed

 

I didnt have to pull the started out when i put mine in.

Got it all back togeather but the battery is dead so i have it on a charger now so ill get to drive it tonight maybe.

 

I bolted mine down pretty tight. What's pretty tight? That's a judgement call, but you will need to conform the doughnuts to the shape of the "bells" on the Y-pipe and collector.