i'm going to be putting on my headers soon. can someone give me some instructions as to how you do that. i have no idea. i know i have to get the car on ramps, and get under the car. thanks to anyone that gives me this.... :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

I am in the same boat. If anyone can help us, it would definately be appriciated.... :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

I havent done my headers yet but From what i've read on here i think I can provide an acurate discription... that and I have headmens directions in my hamd lol

frst depending on which headers you have it could be different... for example if you ooght slp you either have to move the steering box or grind your shaft or bend your hedder! lol

for the passenger side! which is really hard cause there is no room!... you have to unnolt the motor mount and jack up the engine because on of the bolts is right against the rear well.

disconect y-pipe, take out all exaust manifold bolts on that side, and take out manifold, clean off any old gasket material and then put your new gasket on and put hedder in place.. set all the bolts but dont tighten completely yet. you may want to get the one bolt closest to the interier cause it is a bitch to tighten after motor is back in motor mount. then lower engine back into place.

driver side is easy... unbolt and take out, make sure you have your 02 bung attached to heder, you need your o2 sensor!!

if you bought hedmen they said they attached an o2 bung but everyone who has them has confirmed that they do not! mydself included so i went to local speed shop and bought a bung and drilled a hole in my y-pipe and walah!.

any way back to driver side... no need to undue motor mount this time, again clean all old gasket material, put new gasket in place and install hedder, get all bolts snug but not tight yet, get them so that the hedder doesnt wiggle too much,

then connect your y-pipe and fit it accordingly to hedders. I would screw in your o2 sensor b4 installing y-pipe this way all you have to do is plug it in.

then tighten you headder bolts from the inner bolt going out! to the specified tourque,... which i dont know! do a search i'm doing the best i can here lol

tighten both sides and y-pipe connectors, start the car and check for leaks, after a couple days recheck for leaks and retighten bolts as necesary..

hopefully i've covered everything, anyone else note anything wrong with anything i've said please let them know! and me too!

some applications are different like some have air some do not , this should make not much difference, just make sure you have your 02 sensor, and goood gaskets and such. \


hmmm what else what else..idk pm me if you need anything

 

One thing! Its a bitch! Have fun!

 

I'm right in the middle of putting hedman hedders and y-pipe on right now on my 91 RS. The big problem is the back bolt on the passenger side on the stock manifold, I can't get it off. I can get a wrench on it from up top but then the wrench is all the way up against the Fan blower and you can't turn it, from below the only thing I can get on it is a standard length socket but then I can't get the ratchet on it, I don't see how raising the motor would help since this would just press up against the fan blower box and leave even less room. Looks to me like taking the whole AC/Fan blower unit off of the firewall, or taking the engine out is the only way, this sux

 

my hedders just went in today!! i didnt have a problem with the back stock bolt because i never put it in the last time I tok off my manifolds!! my headders dropped right in!!!

 

XThree-

I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and 1/4" drive 9/16" socket and got my back bolt off. Then I used a 3/8" x 16 x 1" long allen head bolt when I put the headers back on. I had to make my own allen head socket out of a 1/4" drive 5/16" socket with a peice of a cut off 5/16" allen wrench stuck in the socket, but it worked well for that pesky back bolt.

Dingley-

I just put on my hooker 2055's and and have some advise for you.

After you get the stock manifolds off, take a 3/8" x 16 tap and run into all the exhaust manifold bolt holes. Especially the back one on the pass. side of the engine. In the very back where you are fighting getting that last bolt off, you will notice two bolt holes. One is used for the stock manifolds you are taking off, the next hole right beside it is used for the headers. The hole is already tapped, but it probably full of rust and crud from years of non use. I didn't realize this until after I had my right header on and had to fight that bolt all the way in. It was a major pain beleive me.

So in hind sight, I would have run a tap in all the holes and it would have made it much easier for me.

Good luck.

 

lol

 

I took out motor mount bolts, and jacked my 305 up - then took a long pry bar and pushed motor toward driver side to get to mine. I had to raise motor anyway for the driver side - and I put the headers in from the top side. Have to crawl under for the Y-pipe, but my Hedmann's (shorties w/AIR) went in from top. Try my "jack & push" method.

 

air tools:hail:

 

I put mine in without having to jack up the engine. The right side took a little wiggling around but wasnt too bad. The left side i had a hell of a time trying to get it in with the stering shaft in place, after i took it off went right in. The things you have to look out for are if any wires are touchin (my right side wires are hitting in 3 places) get a wire loom kit for em i got mine from summit and also make sure the headers arent touching any metal my right side header is touchin the lower a-arm but only rattles at at around 5-600 rpm. Few things to do while doing headers are replace plugs and wires, fan switch(you'll most likly break it off when removing the old 1's) get the lower temp if you find it at all, i also broke my fan switch female connecter to the ecu. Make sure to drain the coolent for the fan switch trust me it holds alot of coolent. And you may need a new o2 sensor i couldent get mine off no matter how much rust buster i put on and eventually broke it. A sawzall, air chizel, torch and big hammer makes removing the cat back off easier. It took me 2 days to get it out and back on minus the cat back givin that i never put headers on before, it was raining half the time and couldent "jam" it out. the first day i had the old headers out and the 2nd day I took off the cat back, then attempted to put on my 3inch but it then started to t-storm and ended up taking it to exhasut werks with open headers hehehe. It is a huge PITA but if you focus on one thing at a time and have a game plan you should be fine.

 

*whew* ok notes on my Hedman shorty install

passenger side:
removed dip stick, and starter, otherwise getting to your plugs and hedder bolts after hedders are in and motor on mounts is a bastard and you'll spend more time messing with it and might mess up your threads.
Jacked up passenger side of motor putting jack and 2x4 under smog bracket.
Fan switch connector crumbled when taking it off, bought new fan switch and connector from the dealer but even a 6 point socket rounded off the old switch so I'm running it manual. I recommend removing this when you have no manifold there, and using either a 6 point 13/16 1/2 socket, or maybe a 20mm will fit on it, soak it at least one day before with penatrant like Wd40

drivers side:
I'm sorry but mine would NOT unless I jacked up this side of the engine about 2 inches from under that side of the motor. I dont see anyone removing the stock manifold or getting the hedman shortys in without raising the motor or removing other stuff like valve cover, or power brake unit.


You can't get a torque wrench on sqaut if the motor is in the car.

The bolts they send you suck its dam near impossible to get the tight because its hard to get a good grip on them due to space issues, getting alen head bolts are better. and even then you may have to grind the sides of your bolts because the hit the primaries.


lock washers will not fit on the hedman bolts and still clear the primarys.

02 sensor goes on the BACK of the drivers side hedder about 2 inches above the collector is perfect, don't even think about having it welded on the front side(same side as stock manifold).
If you have flowtech hedders the collector is much higher and you can put the 02 in the stock (front side) position, but not on the hedman shorties because the collector is much lower.

The gaskets they send you suck, buy copper for the hedders, and I bought dead soft aluminum for the collectors, the flowtech ones work but you have to drill out the holes some.

 

Damn good write up cuz in a few weeks ima do a hedman headers/Y-pipe also My friend Dan is def gunna help me on this one, hes done everything to his 69 camaro and wants to help me with mine.

SSBO

 

did you try taking off the steering column coupler? Mine in no way in hell would have gone in if i didnt remove it, I would think its easier and safer then jacking the engine up.

 

yeah thats what i did un bolted the steerkng... unfortunately when i put it back on my steering wheel was upside down when gtoing straight lol put it back on wrong whoops

 

how do i remove the steering shaft so i can put in my headers?

 

It has 2 bolts one towards the fire wall one toward the front you have to remove the plastic covering from it. Then soak the 2 bolts with wd-40 or rust busters. after you break the bolts lose spray the wd-40 off with brake clean and apply some marker paint to make sure you get the steering shaft realigned. Remove the top bolt and if I recall the bottom will just slip right out. It was a big help for me and was only 10 mins to get it all out. I didnt use the marker paint but was very carfull not to move anything, but still is a good idea.

 

well.... i finally got them on......

but, i think they're leaking.....

how do i make them not leak?

do i just tighten the bolt more?

 

no problems installing mine, the a/c unit wasnt hooked up so i just took the whole unit off tonnes of room after that Who needs a/c anyhow LOL, ya so i put on a heater box off a non a/c camaro.

 

yeah how do you make them not leak?

 

how in the hell do you get the bolt the furthest back on the passenger side.. that bolt is impossible to get.

 

I jammed my arm down between the plastic blower box and the valve cover and finger tighten it. After that I got a wrench and tighten it 1/4 or a 1/2 turn till it was tight, not much room huh.

 

I used some universals and short extentions, can't quite remember, it was almost a year ago.

 

i took off my a/c and it is so easy you could get to it if you were blind.

 

Ok... but how do you get the original bolt off? That thing is a pita. I can barely get to it by hand to even figure out what size it is... doesn't appear to be 9/16.

 

you will have to check header bolts often to retighten them to keep from leaking usually after a week of retightening they should stay, i also read in a tech article several years ago that soaking header gaskets in water for 24hrs prior to installing helps prevent leaks. but i have never tried this yet so i do not know for sure if it works, migth be worth a try