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o2 sensor in manifold, how do you get the drivers side manifold off?

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Old Dec 4, 2003 | 08:47 AM
  #1  
kbog54's Avatar
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Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 305 CFI
o2 sensor in manifold, how do you get the drivers side manifold off?

I have two questions

1.Would it hurt anything if i didnt put the sensor that is in the drivers side manifold back in? My headers dont have a spot to put it so i will have to drill a hole.

2. Also, how do you remove the drivers side manifold? I'm having trouble taking the first bolt off. I have removed the AC, and was wondering if you need to remove the power steering bracket also. Thanks for any help
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 11:20 AM
  #2  
87350IROC's Avatar
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From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Yes, you absolutly need the O2 sensor. Get a muffler shop to weld in an O2 bung.

IIRC the first two bolts are held together with a metal band. Loosen the first and second bolts and remove both at the same time. Shouldn't have to touch the p/s pump.
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 01:44 PM
  #3  
kbog54's Avatar
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Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 305 CFI
manifold

On the drivers side, there is a bracket that comes from behind the power steering pump, and hooks over the end of the manifold. There is a bolt that goes through the bracket and ito the manifold.

For the 02 sensor, do i need to get a heated one? If I do, how much does one run.

Also, could i just drill a hole in the header collector, and weld the o2 sensor in place?

thanks
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Old Dec 6, 2003 | 08:56 AM
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From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Ok, you'll prolly have to remove the p/s pump then. Most people weld in a bung, which is basically a set of threads so you can screw an 02 sensor in and out. You could just weld an O2 sensor into the collector but then it will be painfull if you ever have to get it out. If you have long tubes you will need a heated O2 if you have shorties you prolly don't need one. I think the heated O2s are around $30-40.
JP
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Old Dec 8, 2003 | 10:00 AM
  #5  
kbog54's Avatar
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Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 305 CFI
o2 sensor

ok, i just got my headers all istalled, and i have the sensor that was in the manifold intalled in the headers. I have the hedman long tubes, and the car runs like crap, at idle, it backfires every min or so, and it dies if I give it gas. I just have the open headers, havent put the new exhaust on yet, dont know if that would make any difference.

Does this sound like i need the heated sensor?

Also, where can you buy a heated sensor?

thanks
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Old Dec 8, 2003 | 02:04 PM
  #6  
Tremo's Avatar
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From: San Jose, CA, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z - original owner!
Engine: LB9 with K&Ns, MSD, Foil, Taylor
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.45 posi
My 88 IROC has a 1-wire o2 sensor, so it's NOT heated. If yours is older, it's likely that yours is also a 1-wire, non heated sensor.

You can get o2 sensors at just about any parts house. I just put a new 4-wire sensor in the wife's 94 Scort. bought it at Kragen, it cost something like $60.
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Old Dec 8, 2003 | 08:49 PM
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From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
I would get a heated O2 if i were you. That may be your problem.
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Old Dec 8, 2003 | 10:38 PM
  #8  
kbog54's Avatar
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Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 305 CFI
fixed

Well, I checked the spark plug wires, and that was the problem. I had the 4 and 6 mixed up (dumb mistake). I added a little pipe to the collector with the o2 sensor, and now she idles smoothlyat 1100, and drops to 750 when I put her in gear. Best of all, No backfires . As far as I could tell, she was running fine, I didnt drive very far, just around the garage (there is a ton of snow on the ground in Wisconsin). So thanks for all of the fast replies.

Also, I think I may need something to insulate the plug wires and the remote solenoid wires from the headers (even though I have header wrap). Had anyone had any experience with the stuff that they sell from summit?

Thanks again.
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