Would like to see pictures of everyone custom Y-pipe with Hooker long tubes (2210), Spohn ADJ T.A. w/ driveshaft loop. I will be getting a custom mandrel bent Y-pipe made after my headers get back from the fabrication shop. I would like to get an idea of the bends used and how tight was you able to get the exhaust close to the body, plus the ground clearance if any....

 

unless the someone has run the exhuast above the cross member, i dont see how it would even come close to clearing...

 

I got some hooker long tubes I'm tring to fit with the sphon crossmber and there is no way the exhaust can go under the crossmber like it normaly could. This what I'm going to try in the next few months or so. I'm Have installed the two long tubes of the sphon subframe kit on the car and I'm going to cut the fram rail out by the the sides of the trans. I'm either going to cut in 2 or 3 inches and then rebox the area and run oval tubing there if I can and then conect the short sphon subframe pieces by crossmeber or find some thick round steel tubing and run the pipe though that like the old corvette crossmembers. Bends are going to be tight, probly only way will to be the cut and weild prebent stuff. Not sure if I'm going to use 2 1/2 or try 3 yet and no way will you get cats up there close to the headers if you go with a Y to a single pipe.

 

you could easily get away with 2.5 if your doing somehting smaller than a 400...

i still think you'd be better off trying to run it above the cross member...

either way - i'm going to be fabricating a crossmember that will allow for the exhuast to get tucked up a lot more off the ground...

 

I saw a few pics somewhere on this board, of a modified exhaust system that goes completly around the Spohn T/A. This person put alot of work into it, but got it done.

 

I found what I was talking about.

http://www.darcom.org/darcom/darcom/darcom_006.htm

 

Did you notice how he modified the TA. I think I will have to do the same thing.

 

no thanks on cutting into the frame...

 

He Did Not cut into the frame, he cut the driveshaft loop off from its orginal location on the TORQUE ARM and rewelded it for clearance over the top. I posted the picture to show what he did, LOOK AT THE PICTURE

 

you know, i'm liking the spohn torque arm design less and less lately...especially when considering the BMR unit with it's stand alone crossmember. i just don't like how the spohn t/a attaches to the crossmember. if you look at how the attachment point juts out from the crossmember, giving the t/a leverage on the crossmember forcing it up and down while under heavy acc./decc. this is why people are having some problems with the crossmembers ripping the bolts out of the frame with higher powered cars.

the bmr unit has a stand alone unit and the mounting point is directly over the centerline of the crossmember, so it lifts up/down on the whole car. the only downside i can see is that it's not a bolt in unit and has to be welded in. which means some measureing. i think it'll be worth it though because of the above mentioned issues, as well as the exhaust will have much more clearance. here is a picture of what i'm talking about.

 

Well he cut into the subframe in this pic:

 

And he "boxed" it, making it all strong again. I had to cut a 1" hole into each of mine , since the crossmember bolts stripped, so now I can put a nut on the inside. BTW, is that a sub connector, or the factory uni body sheetmetal? Hard for me to tell, from the pic.

 

He did box it , but I don't believe it's *as* strong as it was...plus that's a PITA especially if you're not a welder. I'm going to go with oval tubing in that area myself.
That looks to be the stock subframe metal he chopped...

 

its plinty strong, you cant see the steel welded inside the box. carefull planing went into making it ,and now ground clearance is not even a concern.



http://darcom.org

 

I have no doubt it's plenty strong...it's plate steel fully welded to the frame ...so I don't think you'd have any problems down the line. It looks like a well thought out design and it was designed how it needed to be to maintain clearance...I unfortunately am not a welder, so I was saying modding the DS loop and the frame would not be something I would do (or be willing to pay someone to do)...so I'm going to try some oval tubing under the frame section and then run it back to the rear with round.
It looks like nice work, and I'm sure it flows like a *****!

 

the whole job cost me $600. minus the muffler i told the guy who did it pricisely what i wanted and he did it. it flows really well and one side effect is i HAVE gas mileage now it went way up compaird to my last exhaust.






http://darcom.org

 

Why don't you look before you open your mouth? If you had taken the time to look at the pictures in the link, you wouldn't have has to look like a jack ***...


as for cutting through the frame there, i stand by my no thanks... I don't care how much steel was welded in there - it's a bad idea and compromises the rigidity of the framerail...

 

WITH THAT POS RUNNING 12.0 DON'T BOTHER,
91 Firebird Trans Am
355rwhp/340rwtrq NA
best run to date: 12.0 @ 114

 

And that has *what* to do with anything? I hope for your sake that your an 18y/o with just a big mouth, and not an immature 30 year old who doesn't know when to admit he's wrong or made a fool of himself

Oh - and please - do you think i would post the fastest it's run, and what the real hp numbers are? Nope... Notice the "NA"? Ever think that maybe there is a little more something to that? If ya didn't before, maybe you should - i'm sure this 3600lbs 350 powered car would embaress your 408 anytime - only 465hp and 485ftlbs at the crank? your only making 5 more hp and 30ftlbs of torque than my motor... pretty sad...

 

Owned...

People on this board need to have a little more respect for eachother. Who cares if his car runs 12 flat or if it runs 8's. It's is his decision and hobby, not yours DTL504.

BTW, I have an appointment for this friday to get a custom y pipe made to adapt my hooker LT's to my hooker catback. Is their anything I should tell the guy before doing it because I will want to run an aftermarket TQ arm in future...

 

sorry - edited it dirtbiker - found his pics and dyno sheets - Definately a nice car, but still someone who was a bit quick on trigger to spew ****

 

If I had to do it all over again I would get the Spohn torque arm without the front Driveshaft loop and buy a seperate loop that would mount to the underbody of the vehicle. This would allow you to move the loop further back and clear the opening under the torque arm to route the Y-Pipe as done in the picture above.

 

i would say take some pictures of what you want also,if you can find them on here. it helps them alot becouse there not sure of what can fit or bedone untel they try.

 

Advantage of the spohn trq arm setup - takes the load off the trans tailshaft...


Fact - i've run 1.6 60's on a BMR trq arm that goes to the tailshaft ont he trans... is it worth it? IMO not really.. the spohn piece is awesome but not compatiable with longtubes in any way unless your up to serious amounts of fab work

on the other hand, i build myself a nice little trans crossmember with loops in the sides to provide clearence for the 3" pipes... I don't have pics right now, but i will take some when i bring the car out of storage in the spring...

 

Got any?

 

This is what i'm looking into, but mandrel bent stainless.