VHT 1500*, do I need to bake?
#1
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VHT 1500*, do I need to bake?
On the back of the VHT 1300-2000* Header paint can it says that I can CURE it on the car. It says:
Run at idle for 10 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes. Run at idle for 20 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes. Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes.
Has anyone done this method? I would hate to go through all the install trouble for nothing if it starts to flake on me.
If the general consensus is no, where can I have it baked at? My home oven only goes up to 500*, whereas the can specifies that oven curing needs to be done at 600* for the final step.
Run at idle for 10 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes. Run at idle for 20 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes. Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes.
Has anyone done this method? I would hate to go through all the install trouble for nothing if it starts to flake on me.
If the general consensus is no, where can I have it baked at? My home oven only goes up to 500*, whereas the can specifies that oven curing needs to be done at 600* for the final step.
#2
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Pitman, NJ
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
you can do it the way it says but make sure your headers are brand new bare metal. If they are new remove the black paint on them, if they are old and rusty get them sandblasted... I painted a set for a friend by hanging them from the ceiling and hitting them with a propane torch after each coat I sprayed on. When you put them on the car you have to be real careful not to get oil or other fluids all over them or else the paint will come off after a few days. After a year my friends still look good except the bottom of the collectors where they are constantly getting wet / road crud on them.
#3
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How much are propane torches? I was thinking of something other than an oven or risking the "on the car" method. And yes the headers are brand new. Just put on a 2nd coat of aircraft remover.
So spray.....torch....spray....torch....spray.....
How far away do you torch, for how long do you torch, and how long after spraying do you torch?
Thanks for replying btw.
-Kevin
So spray.....torch....spray....torch....spray.....
How far away do you torch, for how long do you torch, and how long after spraying do you torch?
Thanks for replying btw.
-Kevin
#4
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Nevermind, took them back and exchanged for coated ones. I'd rather have shine and $120 lighter for Jet-Hot coating, than spraying & baking, and then flaking and rusting.
#5
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Nevermind, took them back and exchanged for coated ones. I'd rather have shine and $120 lighter for Jet-Hot coating, than spraying & baking, and then flaking and rusting.
#6
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
cured mine on the car, no troubles
#7
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
hmm, i'm doing mine in the garage right now... my black paint doesn't seem to have good coverage, did you notice that token (or others?)?
I was going to bake them in my home oven, bringing them up to max heat (after they've air dried, I don't want to start a fire from fumes.) then turn my oven onto the clean setting, I know it gets freakishly hot with that
I was going to bake them in my home oven, bringing them up to max heat (after they've air dried, I don't want to start a fire from fumes.) then turn my oven onto the clean setting, I know it gets freakishly hot with that
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#8
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
note: baking these soon after air drying in the garage makes a weird/bad smell, sorta like burning plastic. I'll try more coats and more baking it on when it's warmer outside, so I can leave more windows open
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