I wanted to know if anyone could tell me by looking at these pictures if i'd be able to run a single 3 inch exhaust. I'm new to thirdgens, this is only my second, and i've never done an exhaust system on one. I tried hedman longtubes, but I had to dent the collector too much, and I trashed them. I'm considering going with hooker long tubes, I already have hedman 2.5 inch x tensions, and torctite clamps.
Any input is appreciated. I may even consider cutting the sfc out, but I don't have a welder that's why i'm stuck on the longtube idea. Plus it's cheaper. thanks

 

If these pics aren't good enough I can take others with the vehicle raised. I'd like to cut the sfc's out kinda, because they don't look that great. Also can you tell if the frame is twisted by looking at the back of the car, it seems one side is higher than the other.

 

As for the exhaust, the single 3" will fit in the same location as the stock piping. Header wise, I don't see why the SFCs are interfering with the headers? Maybe a better picture would be more clear.

Many things could be causing the car to lean from the rear, from a sagging spring to a blown shock.

 

When I got the car it was a rolling chassis. The person had the $hittiest custom dual exhaust I ever saw. I told him to keep it when I picked the car up.
I didn't have problems with the headers interfering with the sfc's, but i'm worried about the 3" piping getting by. I don't remember being under my vert with the 3" pipe, otherwise I wouldn't have posted this. It doesn't look like it will fit, and I don't want to have to cut the sfc. I also have es motor mounts which are said to raise the motor.
I had problems with the hedman longtubes fitting by the slave cylinder, but then I saw a pic of someone elses, and they barely had to dent the collector, it makes no sense to me. I will take better pictures when I have the car up in the air again. It seems the connector is right by where the cat would be.

 

Judging by the double 90 deg bends,,,Home made, and not very well.

Better than nothing, I suppose. If you have the means, I'd trash them and get new ones.

More than likely, the "frame" tweak you speak of, is only sort of SFC related. BUT, if the body was jacked up unevenly when the SFCs were made. the body would tweak, and installing SFCs, would prevent it to return fully to its correct shape.

 

Completely true, that blanked my mind when I answered your question, but that's another possibility.

 

I didn't even think about that, but it's definitely noticeable. I think i'll buy a sawzall and a cutoff wheel. Any suggestions on sfc's that will clear a 3 inch pipe. How about bolt in? I don't know of a shop around me, but i'm sure I could find one to weld them in.

 

I've run around 2 3/4" exhaust before, and never thought subframes would be near them, much less hitting them.

The key to welding them on, is to have the suspension supported, as if driving down the road. Drive on lift is best.

Generally, we just use multiple jacks, to lift the car evenly, rather than lifting one end, then the other. Probably wouldn't hurt the car really, but you never know for sure.

Even if you get bolt on SFCs, go get them welded shortly afterwards.

 

Don't bolt them in, just wait till you can get them welded. bolt in ones tend to be useless after a few hundred miles when the bolts have elongated the holes and you'll be back where you started.

Any good aftermarket set will work fine. I think both BMR and UMI sell good ones.

 

I 2nd the comment about UMI. I have them and couldn't be happier.

 

Yeah, IF you bolt them on, you pretty much wanna drive straight over to a welder, or the next day.

The bolts will elongate the holes.

 

I was thinking about going with UMI, but i'd be really pissed if my exhaust didn't clear. I have ES motor mounts, but I haven't read enough about them. I was going to go with bolt ins, to save money, and than have them welded. thanks for the input