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removing factory headers..help!

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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 06:59 PM
  #1  
rv1890's Avatar
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
removing factory headers..help!

I originally placed this in the "tpi" section, and then noticed this is more convienent.

Really stuck on a problem, and its almost causing me to light a match under my iroc. I have a 87 305, and im trying to get the heads off. I just pulled the headers off, but it does not give me enough room to get to the head bolts along the bottom. I got the driver side off, and the pass. side Im having difficulty removing the last (2) bolts (closest to the firewall)...do i need to remove the ac box??

I tried using a pry bar, but I can only get the headers to move back about an inch. How do I get the headers away from the block enough so that I can get to the bottom head bolts. Its hot outside, and im getting frustrated. Im sure there is an easier way to do this? Thanks guys.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 09:35 PM
  #2  
84ZMIKE's Avatar
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From: Lillington,N.C.
Car: 84Z28
Engine: 0.030 over 10.25:1 dart heads 350
Transmission: T 5 W.C. now
Axle/Gears: 3.73:1
Not too sure what type of headers you have,but I would advise removing them completely....or you could try removing the starter .....that may give you enough room to move the header.
Good luck,
Mike
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 05:45 AM
  #3  
JamesC's Avatar
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Factory headers?

JamesC
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 12:28 PM
  #4  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Considering the amount of effort involved, I'd probably just pull the motor. You've got to remove so much of the motor anyway, that the only thing you save by keeping it in the car is the effort of unbolting the trans, lower radiator hose, and the motor mounts. For what it takes to do that and lift it out, it will make R&R of the entire top end of the motor so much easier.
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 01:00 PM
  #5  
rv1890's Avatar
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
Yeah well I figured that out the hard way. I wish I would have just yanked the motor out. Anyways....if anyone else is having difficulty removing the factory headers then just unbolt it from the block, and then remove the collector bolts from under the car, and then the headers just slide out. I had to use a different combination ratchet, extension, and socket length for just about every bolt. Make sure to but some wd-40 or penetrating lube on the bolts.

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 01:02 PM
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Apeiron's Avatar
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Not to split hairs, but if they're factory then they're manifolds, not headers.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 10:11 PM
  #7  
84ZMIKE's Avatar
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From: Lillington,N.C.
Car: 84Z28
Engine: 0.030 over 10.25:1 dart heads 350
Transmission: T 5 W.C. now
Axle/Gears: 3.73:1
Originally Posted by Apeiron
Not to split hairs, but if they're factory then they're manifolds, not headers.

Not so....SLP....yea they didn't come from GM (the factory) but you get the idea.
Mike
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 12:04 AM
  #8  
Apeiron's Avatar
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
SLP headers aren't factory, but they're factory?
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