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how close can the plug boot be to coated headers w/o burning?

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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 07:27 PM
  #1  
BOTTLEDZ28's Avatar
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Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
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how close can the plug boot be to coated headers w/o burning?

Im going to get my Hooker 2210s coated over the winter but I may have to modify the number 7 tube since the plug boot is just touching it slightly when its on the plug. I plan on buying those extreme heat wires from Accell. I think they canhandle 1300 degree temps. My question is, will the plug wire still burn through if it slightly touching a coated header tube.
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 07:40 PM
  #2  
Air_Adam's Avatar
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
As long as it isn't physically touching the tube it should be fine. Some of my MSD wires are VERY close to my header tubes, but none have been burnt. I've had them on there since early May I think?
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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DJP87Z28's Avatar
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Use the LT1 metal plug shields on that boot and you will not have a problem.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 12:59 PM
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From: New Jersey
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: 700R4
Just get some "firesleeve" type stuff desigend to protect your boots. Then you should be fine.

- Justin
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 02:44 PM
  #5  
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Thats what i did. $40 bucks I think and about 15 minutes and then you will be just fine. I have coated 2210s as well.
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 07:18 PM
  #6  
BOTTLEDZ28's Avatar
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From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
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I alreat have 8 of thjose fire sleeves and persoanlly, I think they look stupid. they just make my engine compartment look ugly. What I am going to do is redesign the header pipe that is causing this issue. If I have no choice but toi use those fire sleeves then I will see if they sell them in black and then get black wires as well so they dont show as much
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 08:04 PM
  #7  
//<86TA>\\'s Avatar
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From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
i have slp 1 3/4 coated headers and some of my plugs are just a hair away from the pipes and i have not had a problem yet (knock on wood)
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 09:20 PM
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
I had the same situation with the 2210 that I installed on my cars. The #7 was to closed and I did not want to have the trouble of always changing burnt plug wires plus finding that shorty plug that will give me a little bit more clearance. What I did was took it to a custom shop and had them redo that pipe out about an 1 1/2" , now I do not have to worry about find that short plug are my hwire being burnt. This modification cost me $100.00 parts and labor, but I also had him weld my O2 bung in while the headers were off at no additional charge. What I had this guy do was cut the pip and tack weld it then I bought it home and put it on the car to ensure I had enough room. Needless to so everything has work out wonderful and no problem with wires or plugs.Here are somne photo's of the modification.

Last edited by DTL504; Oct 14, 2006 at 09:25 PM. Reason: photos
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 09:37 PM
  #9  
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Forgot the link, I would do this before getting them coated. Just food for thought.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...-complete.html
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 08:00 AM
  #10  
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From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
that modification is exactly what I ended up doing. I bought a J bend tube from Summit with a 2.5" radias and it all work out perfect. I also redid the #1 tube since it looked a little close to the plug boot as well. This didnt go as bad as I thought it was going to go. I think the hardest part was redesigning that rasised flange around the port where the gasket goes. It was trial and error with a straight edge. I just ran a bead of weld around the port and grinded it down flat. All should be good now to send them them out to be coated. And at least now I wont have to run those ugly heat sleeves.
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