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Well there it is. True dual on a lowerd (2 1/2 inches) 1985 Trans Am. Hooker long tube headers to 2 1/2 oval exhaust pipe. One small frame notch gave me the room I needed, And some fancy welding got it over the rear. The only part of the system anywhere near the ground is the header flange. About 2 inches off the pavement. lol Im gonna hope for the best. Everything else is tucked up nicley. Still trying to figure out a muffler. I have plenty of room for 2 mufflers. But fornow i merged the 2 ovals into a flowmaster. I just want to drive it.lol Let me know what you think

 

thats sweet!!..how much did that end up costing?

 

if i was to do true duals, thats what i want! not bad! just not sure
how comfortable i am with notching out the frame like that...eek

 

It only cost me about $570.00 for the diffrent bends and straight sections. If i go into more detail. Figure 2 4 1/2 inch flap disk for gringing the pipes, About 5 cut off wheels at 2 bux each, weld wire and some argone gass. About $600 bux. Oh and for now i have reused my flowmaster, Till i find some nice cans. Ill try to get some more pics up soon.

 

True duals are when the pipes NEVER become one.. its a nice twin setup.. but not true duals.

 

[IMG][/IMG]Well Think of it as a large x pipe. X pipes merge to one . The pipe was cut in half and a bigger section welded to it. Theres only a 6 inch merge and its 4 1/4 wide.

 

all true dual systems have some kind of connection like a H pipe or X pipe. they need that crossover for exhaust balancing. so his setup is like an X and looks pretty good.

 

It's my understanding that TRUE duals means that there is ONE pipe runnning from each header and they never meet.. Now adding a X pipe or a H pipe confuses things a little, and its purely opinion if you think its still TRUE dual or just a dual/twin system.

There is no denying that the system posted here is a dual setup.. but I think you guys have lost the meaning in "TRUE DUALS" since the term is tossed around all the time.

Anyway, thats a great DUAL setup

 

Yeah i guess I would have to agree with you that in a sence there are not two seprate pipes. It does merge on my set up. I wanted to balance the exhaust flow a bit. There is just enough room to run 2 pipes in a similar fashion without distroying your frame rails. I searched and searched for pics and discriptions of eveyones set up on these cars. Everything I saw was just too complicating or looked hacked up. Hopefull it helps at lease one person to get a better idea of what could be done. I should have more pics up soon of it on the ground. And shortly some dyno #s to see if there were any ganes after doing all that.

 

I know this is an old thread, but maybe the original poster can log on to photobucket and have an active account so we can see the pictures again. I am looking to see what part of the frame you notched and how it was done.
Thanks

 

Pics aren't showing up, only the photobucket no activity notice.

 

probably cause morons keep bring up threads from 2 years ago.

 

The last time the OP was online was 8 months ago.............I wouldnt hold your breath waiting for the pics.................

 

Oh well.........

 

This is a reall old post, but my set up is kinda still the same. only diffrence is that i tucked my headers up into the vehicle about 2 inches for ground clearence.

Ive been looking into the spohn stainless headers, anyone have them? How do they fit? Performance?

 

Blimey I wouldnt fancy cutting the frame like that, whats the point in puttin in frame conectors etc if you are going to muller it like that?

 

The frame connectors tie in the front and rear sub-frame. The notch gives no strength to the vehicle from twisting. Its really just holding the floor pan. Besides that the notch was fully boxed back together with 16ga steal and is now stronger then it was before.
I think with my 10pt roll cage tied into my sub-frame connectors, tied into the front and rear sub-frames, that notch does not feel a thing. A lot of thought went into that notch before it was done.

What type of sub-frame connectors are you using that go anywhere near that front sub-frame point. Even on a triangular brace set up the small bars are still almost 15" further forward then the notch.

 

The way th notch was done and the exhaust tucked up, I would fabricate a plate and weld som nuts on a plate and onto the frame so that you can bolt the plate under the exhaust. Won't loose a lot of clearance and would certainly stiffen that notch up.

 

Thats a good idea, and I though about doing that, and it makes perfect sence. But I really do belive that it is not going to make much difference. This car is so rigid not with the cage, subframes, and the huge trans crossmember for the t-56 swap.

How would you design the plate to cover the notch? The pipes still hang about 1" lower then then frame. I was thinking square stock on its side, weld a plate to that , then drill 4 holes in the corners and bolt it to the frame.