so what am i going to do, we all know that the spark plug boot on the #7 plug touches the header and thats no good

im not denting in the header to clearance this (i dont get why hooker by now hasnt made the slightest modification to correct this problem) so i guess shorty spark plugs are the answer?

who makes a good shorty plug thatll work? are they insanely expensive?

mods in sig, making about 300 rwhp

can i just run the 1 shorty plug or is it better to run all the same kind of plug in the motor? the extra clearance all around might not be a bad idea tho enough of the other tubes are pretty close as well

 

Go to any parts house and get header plugs, ACCEL makes them

They are shorter

Next get a set of 90* plug wires

All you need

 

i have 90 degree plug wires, ill go pick up a set of the accel plugs

thanks

now if only someone could cure the fact that my #4 tube is hitting hte k-member, was planning on driving it to the exhaust shop and having them hook up the rest of the exhaust. I cant get the flange to come flush with the head because the tube is hitting. Looks like im going to have to tow it there and then have them torch and bend it, this is kind of rediculous

 

Anyone burning wires should look into these plug extensions

http://www.wrenchrat.com/

Sounds like your heads, or motormounts may be less then optimal for the LTs.
Many folks don't have the issues you're having.. YMMV

 

i dont think the dart iron eagles should be much of any different from the stock heads? and the motor mounts are brand new this summer stock rubber mounts.

i have tons of clearance everywhere but they just come too close to the frame

 

L98 heads i believe are angle plug setup....are the Darts angle plug or straight?

 

angle, i dont think these headers would clear straight plugs all too well

pics coming

 

so i have two issues, first of all one of the bolt holes for the #2 cylinder is completly cross threaded, thats the only way it would ever go in, that just sucks but i can deal with that

the bigger issue is the #4 tube hits the k-member, i wanted to bolt everythign up and then drive ti to the exhaust shop with open headers, however when i was tightening the flange the top of it is veery close to being flush with the head, but im 99% sure is not going to seal on the top, the header just wont clear there.

crappiest part is i have tons of clearance everywhere else if they would have ran the tubes a little farther away from the frame




just for fun drivers side sitting pretty, clears everything no problem.
and the money shot from underneath, little arrow showing where the problem is again

 

could u cut out the k member or is it hiting too much? if you could do some minor grinding to that area, you may get it to fit

 

it doesnt need a whole lot, but i dont think grinding is the answer here, i have a ton of clearance under the car, the header tubes arent where they need to be. I have a really good exhaust shop i can take it too and theyll torch em and bend it how is needed.

either my passenger side header is the one out of the bunch that was just a little different, or its something about the iron eagle heads maybe? i doubt that tho.

Regardless they simply hit too much, i was trying to have them half way bolted in and give a sudden tug from the collector to bend them just enough against the car, might give that a shot later in the week and see if i can get that tiny bit of clearance.

however im back to work tmw after a week off, so not a ton of time to work on it. If i dont have something figured out by sat itll have to go on a flatbed to the exhaust shop absolutly not what i wanted, especially after all the trouble ive been through to install these

 

do the dart iron heads require the longer reach plugs? I have angle plug dart pro1 aluminum and i need a 3/4" reach plug, and GOOD LUCK finding a shorty with a long reach. I needed them for # 7 and #8 on my SLP's, found a set from accell that are apparently discontinued, and even then i had to dent the #5 tube to clear the #7 plug. If you dont need the long reach and can use the standard reach taper plugs, i have a set of accell shorties form my old motor, they less than 1000 miles on them and you can have them for $10 plus the cost of shipping if you want them, and can wait a little for them to arrive.

 

nah theyre normal plugs, so i can grab a set of the accel shortys.

more concerned with the fact that i cant get the passengert side header to fit

 

Last time I bought Accel header plugs they were between $3-4 each. Summit and Kragen usually carry them. I had to grind down 1 side of the washers on my header bolts and they go in fine

 

When I installed mine, the headers interfered with the K-member in the similar spot you marked. I just ground a little of the k-member down. It didn't need much clearance, just a couple passes. Die grinder took care of that.

I'd also be concerned about that cross-threaded bolt hole. That might be a spot for exhaust leak eventually.

90* spark plug wire boots worked for me. All my plugs clear fine. I can get a picture of the #7 if you want.

 

Maybe a pic of where you grinded down on the K-member to see the clearance?

 

You might mark all the areas of the headers that are hitting, remove the headers, heat them up and "dimple" the area and you should be good to go. While the header is off you can repair the bolt hole that is cross threaded. If you plan on keeping the car, look for the long term solution. You might also try using studs for the problem areas or for all the header bolts if they will work, especially if you have aluminum heads.

 

i didnt grind on the k-member yet steve, i dont want to i have so much clearance under the car that it seems rediculous to start grinding on anything, dont want to weaken that area structurally and knowing me ill take too much

it really doesnt need that much clearance at all i had the flange sooo close to being bolted up flush but was worried iw as warping the flange.

the headers have to come off the motor anyways to repair the crossthreaded bolt, so since i have CAA and still have some free tows (so sick) i'm just going to tow the car to the exhaust shop.

would have been so sweet to drive the car there with open headers *evil grin* but ah well.

i'm so busy at work this week that for what its worth, its at most an hours work for the shop to deal with the header properly.

Wish they would just bend that header tube closer to the other tubes right in that spot and it would clear everyones car no problem.

same thing as the #7 spark plug if they just made the tube a hair longer and the bend a tiny bit bigger, it would clear no problem, they should really deal with this stuff
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if you could get a picture that'd be cool, what kind of spark plug are you using?

with ngk plugs and a 90 degree boot my header plug was just touching the header

 

check out page 159 in the new accel catalogue
http://www.accel-ignition.com/pdf/74283G.pdf

i cant figure out if the part number for the accel shorty plugs i need is 8198 or 8199 its not overly specific.

possibly theres even something slightly hotter or colder that i could use? i assume thats the difference.....

OH and 86 TA i quote off page 154, "now available in the long anticipated 3/4" reach 5/8" hex gasketed configuration, available in two heat ranges, for use in most aftermarket aluminum applications"

 

 

Those spark plugs look awesome, I want a set

I'll be driving my car to the shop next week with open headers. Don't worry, I'll take a vid of the whole trip Doug

 

Old news, but I have vortec heads with Hooker LT's. I've burnt 3 #7 plug wires since startup. I replaced my AC44LTS plug with the shorty Accel P526S yesterday. Still hitting the header tube. I have the kevlar cover on too. Driving me nuts. Thinking about pulling the headers and waylaying them. There goes my nice ceramic coating.....Any suggestions

 

AFR eliminator 195 cc heads.. L98 angle plug option, and hooker long tubes

No problems at all here.. plugs are far away from headers. hardest one to do is number 1 actually

 

Snap a 90* boot on the #7 and rotate it to best clearance then take another pic

Sounds like you need the zip-tie mod
Or a set of these