Headman Longtubes
Headman Longtubes
I was thinking on getting some LT but i didn't want to spend a arm & leg, so i was looking in jeg's and ran across some headman LT for $150, my question is has anyone use these before, if so what did you think, and is it worth the money, or shall i just save for the hooker supercomp coated. Let me know what you guys think.
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From: s.n.j.
Car: 1984 T/A WS6
Engine: L69 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: fact G80 with GT4 3.73
Re: Headman Longtubes
i can't tell u how good or bad they are. but i can say don't get annsy. u get what u pay for. u'll be much happier with the coated ones.
do what u want to do,but if it were me i would wait. this way u don't end up paying twice b/c of impatience. if i'm reading this wrong, i appologize. jmo.
good luck.
do what u want to do,but if it were me i would wait. this way u don't end up paying twice b/c of impatience. if i'm reading this wrong, i appologize. jmo.
good luck.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Headman Longtubes
The Hedman's aren't bad. Unless you fab the rest of the system up yourself, the headers aren't the most expensive part of LTs anyway.
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: Dart SHP 406 HSR, LE heads
Transmission: Performabuilt Level 2, Vig 3200
Axle/Gears: S60 373
Re: Headman Longtubes
There is a305 on this board running mid 12's with those headers you are asking about....he had dual 2.5's but switched to a single 3.5"......still runs very strong
Re: Headman Longtubes
headmen LT's are a way better header then most. well built but agree that the coated ones last alot longer but not worth then money to me. when you will need to massage them to fit.
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: Headman Longtubes
They dont fit perfectly, but even the $500/$700 Hooker long tubes (2210s) dont fit super easily either. I think the reason they cost more has more to do with the fact that they're 1-3/4 inch primaries as opposed to the 1-5/8s like the Hedmans.
But they're fine headers. For the money it's hard to not use them. And the coated ones will last longer, but when they're only $150... they're almost disposable. And down south where rust isnt that big of a deal, it's just not worth it to me.
Coated ones sure do look nice, though.
But to answer your question, they're very common and a lot of people use them.
But they're fine headers. For the money it's hard to not use them. And the coated ones will last longer, but when they're only $150... they're almost disposable. And down south where rust isnt that big of a deal, it's just not worth it to me.
Coated ones sure do look nice, though.
But to answer your question, they're very common and a lot of people use them.
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
Re: Headman Longtubes
it actually runs stronger with the new exhaust, but i believe part of that to do with muffler flow capabilities over the old setup. the old muffs were the summit "welded" mufflers, which is basically a flowmaster knockoff. it's got a big single dynomax bullet on it now and it spins up wicked quick now. sound clip in sig
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From: any clime or place...
Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
Re: Headman Longtubes
i had no problem with my headman LT's. dropped them in when i installed my crate motor a few years back.
however, i had many, many problems with the y-pipe i fabricated getting smashed every other week. switched to 2055's.
IMO they are awesome headers, but have fun with the rest of the exhaust.
however, i had many, many problems with the y-pipe i fabricated getting smashed every other week. switched to 2055's.
IMO they are awesome headers, but have fun with the rest of the exhaust.
Re: Headman Longtubes
yeah if you're worried about the headers, I wouldn't be. I bought them, and here's my reasoning...
1, the cost. the things are so bloody cheap, even if they didn't last very long you could go through three sets of these before being worth one set of the hookers. I plan to just wrap them anyways.
2, size is not the end of the world. bigger is better, yes, but a lot of people out there could see 300$ go to something other than top of the line headers. if you want every last bit of power, get the bigger hookers, but if you're not making at the very least 300hp or so (IMO) the money would probably be better spent on a cam or something for example.
3, quality is not bad. seen better, def seen a lot worse though.
4, getting a y-pipe fabbed is not that hard or expensive if you find a good shop. just shop around and you're bound to find one for around the same price as you will pay to get the one made to fit.
but I'm very much a budget racer, and find it hard to spend such a large chunk of change on top of the line anyways. so thats just me.
1, the cost. the things are so bloody cheap, even if they didn't last very long you could go through three sets of these before being worth one set of the hookers. I plan to just wrap them anyways.
2, size is not the end of the world. bigger is better, yes, but a lot of people out there could see 300$ go to something other than top of the line headers. if you want every last bit of power, get the bigger hookers, but if you're not making at the very least 300hp or so (IMO) the money would probably be better spent on a cam or something for example.
3, quality is not bad. seen better, def seen a lot worse though.
4, getting a y-pipe fabbed is not that hard or expensive if you find a good shop. just shop around and you're bound to find one for around the same price as you will pay to get the one made to fit.
but I'm very much a budget racer, and find it hard to spend such a large chunk of change on top of the line anyways. so thats just me.
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Trumbull CT
Car: 87 TA clone
Engine: 70/70 Turbo 5.3 LS
Transmission: bullet proof 2004R
Axle/Gears: ford 8.8, 3.55 gears
Re: Headman Longtubes
ive had mine for on my car for over 3yrs... they are good headers but i paid 130$ for them back then. now there 150$. coated headers are nice but they are like 450-500$. my car is not a show car, i like it to look nice but im more about performance and not spending alot of $$ to get there... personally id rather save the money on the headers, get the non coated and paint them and save the money and use it for all the gas i like to use after putting that nice new exhaust on 
all in all, they are good headers def worth the 150$ and they fit pretty good, might have to dent them alil, my flange warped on the driver side like 1.5yrs after installation but they are still on and working. in the engine bay the headers look good but once u get to the collectors at the bottom since they get hit wit the water,salt etc they rust alot alot alot faster. they tuck up alil higher than most LT like hooker etc so u can get more ground clearance but as everyone said fabbing up the rest is gona be more $$ and hard.
watever u do DONT WRAP THEM! if i where to get them coated and spend the $$ for them i would get stainless, test fit them dent or dimple them all before and send them out to JETHOT to get them the best coating and call it a day. i'm gona be ordering a new set of headman LT's for my HSR383 thats going in, in the spring. headmans get thumbs up from me

all in all, they are good headers def worth the 150$ and they fit pretty good, might have to dent them alil, my flange warped on the driver side like 1.5yrs after installation but they are still on and working. in the engine bay the headers look good but once u get to the collectors at the bottom since they get hit wit the water,salt etc they rust alot alot alot faster. they tuck up alil higher than most LT like hooker etc so u can get more ground clearance but as everyone said fabbing up the rest is gona be more $$ and hard.
watever u do DONT WRAP THEM! if i where to get them coated and spend the $$ for them i would get stainless, test fit them dent or dimple them all before and send them out to JETHOT to get them the best coating and call it a day. i'm gona be ordering a new set of headman LT's for my HSR383 thats going in, in the spring. headmans get thumbs up from me
Re: Headman Longtubes
i just hope they work with alluminum angle plug heads. Joined: Jan 2002
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From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Headman Longtubes
I have had the Hedman LT's for several years now. Back when they were $109. I sprayed a can of Gray/Silver VHT header paint on them. That lasted about a year. I then sprayed one can of Black VHT on each and have been good for about 2 years now.
Last time at the track I ran a 12.16 in 1/4. I should be in the high 11's in when I go back in march. Im running the AFR L98 plug angle heads with no problem.
Oh yeah, I didnt have any problems with the fit except for trimming the LCA on the drivers side.
Last time at the track I ran a 12.16 in 1/4. I should be in the high 11's in when I go back in march. Im running the AFR L98 plug angle heads with no problem.
Oh yeah, I didnt have any problems with the fit except for trimming the LCA on the drivers side.
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From: Charles County, Maryland
Car: 2000 BMW M5
Re: Headman Longtubes
bluegrass, what are you doing for Y pipe? I am swapping a roller cammed 327 w/ 200cc world straight plug heads into a 3rd gen, from a 2nd gen, so now I need to re-think having enough exhaust. The third gen as it sits has 350 TPI manifolds and a mandrel bent 3" midpipe. I'd like to go headers but I don't want to slap the little dinker shorties that people are running, on this motor.
I weld and would have no problem fabricating a Y pipe from pieces. Is there enough clearance w/ your Y pipe to not bang it against the road like another guy was saying?
I weld and would have no problem fabricating a Y pipe from pieces. Is there enough clearance w/ your Y pipe to not bang it against the road like another guy was saying?
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Headman Longtubes
I don't have performance issues to worry about since I'm running a 305 but fitment sucked on both my 87 bird and 91 trans am. Had to dimple the drivers side as well as trim the LCA mount and it still rests against the body.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Headman Longtubes
bluegrass, what are you doing for Y pipe? I am swapping a roller cammed 327 w/ 200cc world straight plug heads into a 3rd gen, from a 2nd gen, so now I need to re-think having enough exhaust. The third gen as it sits has 350 TPI manifolds and a mandrel bent 3" midpipe. I'd like to go headers but I don't want to slap the little dinker shorties that people are running, on this motor.
I weld and would have no problem fabricating a Y pipe from pieces. Is there enough clearance w/ your Y pipe to not bang it against the road like another guy was saying?
I weld and would have no problem fabricating a Y pipe from pieces. Is there enough clearance w/ your Y pipe to not bang it against the road like another guy was saying?
Im not running a Y-pipe. It is duals that dump before the rear. The drivers side crosses over and both 2.5" pipe run down the passenger side. The dynomax bullits are under the rear passenger side seat but back a little.
I have no clearance problems out on the street. The lowest point is going under the trans crossmember. You could modify the crossmember with c-notches to tuck the pipes better.
I have seen duals run in the stock location and over the rear. It is tight but doable.
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From: Nashville TN
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
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Re: Headman Longtubes
I just installed a set of these on my car. They weren't that bad to install. I actually got the passenger side installed in from the top since I got rid of the a/c box. I did have to dimple the DR side #3 tube to clearance the front frame rail. Passenger side didn't appear to be hitting, but I think it is now once the motor starts moving.
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